Gavster29

The light is part of the case, I have been looking at cases myself as I'm currently upgrading my PC I'm not sure how old your MB is but as well as RGB being popular you can now get addressable RGB fans and light strips which you can have a controller for or as I hi Ted at your MB can control. The fans are by no means cheap but the effects mean you can have lots of cool stuff going on Case wise I'm going with with a Fractal Design Meshify C, the thing you get with modern cases are decent cable management and PSU/HDD basements and that leads to some smart looking builds with a big window showing a clean and tidy PC! Lots of custom options available at the moment to give you some ideas. I've been watching lots of YT videos from the Americans, Paul's Hardware Channel, Bitwit and Jayz2Cents to name a couple. Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

Can you email me some pics

Cheers @steephill I ended up getting a Zippy 3700mah from Hobbyking it zips along on 3S!

I have a collection in my shed [emoji23] Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

The KO Esprit is used by 90% of my club, only converted to 2.4ghz still a great radio especially if you love sticks! Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

Why do you think Modelsport owe you anything? They have done the right thing in offering you a refund, if you want it that is, and that is fully your choice, if not keep the product and move on. The example of buying a TT01 and receiving a chassis is no different, you would complain and return the goods for a full refund, OK it is annoying but it happens, if the seller doesn't have a full TT01 you cannot make them supply you with one. The law states that you should be in the same state before the error, in other words you should be paid back the same amount that was paid to the company in the first instance (I don't think this includes postage). The law does not deal in compensation and rightly so, you should not be entitled to more than you had to begin with. Morally Modelsport do have the option to offer you extras if they want to keep you as a loyal customer however that is not your "right" and will depend on the company and individual. In the past I have had extras thrown in due to waiting a long time for parts, they were not to blame but were happy to help, on another occasion I had parts on an excessively long wait and asked for a refund, they were happy yo oblige and I didn't get any extras, why would I?

Hey buddy, Did you manage to check out my build thread, I replaced all my screws with stainless, only with a twist, instead of using hex (Allan keys) I used Torx bits which have held up really well! I can highly recommend these people... https://www.accu.co.uk/en/ I have no affiliation to them but they are who I used, I basically took all of the screws required, doubled the required amount for spares and ordered them in 1 hit. They don't just do stainless so if you want like for like then they can provide most types.

A countersink will usually do many sizes, it goes to a point and is 45 degrees, something like these should work OK? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-Hex-Countersink-Boring-Bore-Quick-Change-Drill-Bit-Tool-Set-for-Wood-Metal/152234132674?epid=2154809885&hash=item2371dc84c2%3Ag%3Aej4AAOSwoDValmlZ&_sacat=0&_nkw=countersink+bit&_from=R40&rt=nc

Thanks Nitro yep that's the one! Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

Sorry I'm on hols so I can't link from taptalk it's a bit of a pain, when I return I can get a link if you haven't found it by then. Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

Have you not got a normal drill? I use a countersink bit on a cordless drill. Not sure if Dremel do one but I suspect not as they are fairly chunky bits Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

Yes Losi 8ight and it's just too close to the rear wheels it gets hammered with dirt Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

All answers above buddy, but check out my build thread it is long but I've been through the same process as you. Hope that helps, sorry about not colouring the answers a different shade but I'm using Tapatalk! Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

Body shell fits fine mate. The receiver box was from my old Traxxas Bandit and you are right the fitting was 2x screw holes underneath and countersunk, I originally tried to servo tape it but it wasn't tough enough! The motor mount is custom, my dad made it for me, it's a great bit of kit but a 1 off I'm afraid, I did try getting him to make more, as suggested dazp makes a decent mount. Battery tray/ESC mount was Losi tray I ended up getting it from America as they are a pain to source over here, it's ok but I'm not 100% happy with the ESC placement. Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk

I don't personally agree with this statement. Charge them the day you are going to use them, if you don't use them within 24 hours stick them back to storage charge or they will start to degrade over time according to the few studies I've read, even after 24 hours you can start to see a drop in voltage. I race a single LiPo, it will do a run then I will marshall then it goes on charge at 3C (19.2 amps) it can still be warm (not hot) when you charge it. Obviously always be careful when handling LiPo and check the maximum C if you are going to charge at a higher rate, my LiPo is rated at 5C but charging higher than 1C on any LiPo will shorten the life. At the end of each race meet mine will get discharged back to 3.8v for storage. Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk