6ft4Crawler Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I now run a castle motor and it's lovely but I previously has a EZRUN motor with I think 6 pre drilled holes (3 sets or if you like 3 different motor positions), if it was in one set of holes it would run perfectly quiet and smooth but if used in either of the other two sets of holes It would cog really loudly !!! Reason I tried it in the other holes was becuase it would have made the motor wires run nicer to the ESC but for sure the other two sets of holes on the face of the motor were not correctly centered so deffo something to think of it any of you guys on here are running cheap £30-£40 BL systems some of you might be fine but other my find like me they have to turn the motor and use a different set of hole so I stop it cogging really badly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Hmmm. That's very interesting gents. And sounds perfectly plausible. Guess it's more money either way - expert view or try motor replacement.I thought it might be the diffs, maybe stiff or binding, but since it free-wheels easily on all wheels and on each axle I don't see those being an issue.Doesn't leave many other options really, but the motor. Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Hadn't considered that cheap BL motors might have poorly centred mounting holes. I fitted an Ares sensored motor that does seem to be well made and haven't had problems. John And does a sensored motor work along side the existing OE brushless components? Or does it need to have an ESC upgrade too? Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) 3 minutes ago, ADH66 said: And does a sensored motor work along side the existing OE brushless components? Or does it need to have an ESC upgrade too? Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk You do have to fit a sensored ESC. I use a Hobbywing Quicrun Sensored 10BL60. John Edited September 6, 2017 by johninderby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 You do have to fit a sensored ESC. I use a Hobbywing Quicrun Sensored 10BL60. JohnDoh! Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I just realized today that the stock brushless ESC has a red LED near the orange one which flashes the moment the battery runs out of power. Is that normal? Is that a warning for the battery? Unfortunately the manual mentions nothing about the red LED... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John L Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Hi Guys, I'm new to this hobby, glad I found this forum and great outlaw thread. I stopped by a hobby shop last Saturday, and came out with the brushless outlaw rtr kit?. Totally hooked after it's first run on Sunday, and great fun for my 2yr old to chase after lol. I was wondering also if the stock esc shuts down the motor/ power when the lipo is drained to a safe level of say 3.6v per cell? I ran it for what felt like 15-20 mins and still had more to go, but switched off just incase. I've just ordered 2s 4000mah 50 c lipo, the one that comes in the box is 2s 3250 20c. Will I get more power or just longer run times with 4000mah 50c? Any advice much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Just longer run times, possibly better "punch" from a higher quality battery? I'm sure that some one will correct me if I'm wrong! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 34 minutes ago, Bigjimknickers said: Just longer run times, possibly better "punch" from a higher quality battery? I'm sure that some one will correct me if I'm wrong! You're right there! It'll give longer run times but the battery will maintain the performance for a longer period too than the 20C. I've noticed a difference between the C ratings on my batteries, there's a few rated at 25C and 40C - with a clear difference in performance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Hi Guys, I'm new to this hobby, glad I found this forum and great outlaw thread. I stopped by a hobby shop last Saturday, and came out with the brushless outlaw rtr kit?. Totally hooked after it's first run on Sunday, and great fun for my 2yr old to chase after lol. I was wondering also if the stock esc shuts down the motor/ power when the lipo is drained to a safe level of say 3.6v per cell? I ran it for what felt like 15-20 mins and still had more to go, but switched off just incase. I've just ordered 2s 4000mah 50 c lipo, the one that comes in the box is 2s 3250 20c. Will I get more power or just longer run times with 4000mah 50c? Any advice much appreciated!It will, the esc has a preset safe limit of (can't remember) but it's the recognised "don't use this battery past... V" Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John L Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 49 minutes ago, ADH66 said: It will, the esc has a preset safe limit of (can't remember) but it's the recognised "don't use this battery past... V" Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk That's good to know, when I'm out next il run it until it slows up! is there a difference between using a steering wheel controller and a standard stick controller? I'm guessing its easier for orientation with wheel? I will at some point upgrade from the stock controller, occasionally if I hit reverse , the command doesn't register and I have to re push the trigger again. It happens sometimes if I go from forward then quickly to reverse. Overall though loving this buggy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 That's good to know, when I'm out next il run it until it slows up! is there a difference between using a steering wheel controller and a standard stick controller? I'm guessing its easier for orientation with wheel? I will at some point upgrade from the stock controller, occasionally if I hit reverse , the command doesn't register and I have to re push the trigger again. It happens sometimes if I go from forward then quickly to reverse. Overall though loving this buggy!Only thing I can contribute is to be careful with flight transmitters whose throttle stick won't be spring loaded to return to "off". Maybe car specific types do, but my Spektrum dx8 and ilk don't. So you let go, and the car would keep going. Like a cruise control.Whereas the wheel types all spring back to throttle off. Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 That's good to know, when I'm out next il run it until it slows up! is there a difference between using a steering wheel controller and a standard stick controller? I'm guessing its easier for orientation with wheel? I will at some point upgrade from the stock controller, occasionally if I hit reverse , the command doesn't register and I have to re push the trigger again. It happens sometimes if I go from forward then quickly to reverse. Overall though loving this buggy!And while it seems to be me and you, the car can be programmed via the £10 esc controller shown in the manual, to go direct to reverse from forwards. Really can't recommend this if you value your drive train. The car is, in brushless format at least, borderline over powered out of the box. Snapping from one direction to another will unduly stress especially the plastic components like the spur gear and stock rear prop shaft.I think std setting requires you pause the throttle between fwd and back before reverse is allowed. Imagine slamming a car into reverse at 40mph.....Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 Carson and Core make surface stick radios that work well with cars. My favourite surface stick radio is the Spektrum which has unfortunately been discontinued. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 And I clearly don't know what a stick controller is, by the sounds. I'll get my coat....John, motor and esc you recommend is going to be in my sweaty hands Sat morning. Fingers crossed and thanks for the info, you useful mine of knowledge you. Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 The Aeres sensored motor and Quicrun ESC are so SMOOTH? John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Hitech also make a badass stick controller ! I believe it's called a hitech aorura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 I've got a decent hitec stick controller it's an eclipse 3 channel, it's old and runs on 27mhz however I think I'll convert it to 2.4ghz and swap the battery to a lipo.The car stick transmitters tend to spring back, the reason the plane/helicopter ones don't is to allow finer movement on throttle/lift for example it makes hovering easierSent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Could someone answer my question as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 On 06/09/2017 at 21:35, westerlycarrot9 said: I just realized today that the stock brushless ESC has a red LED near the orange one which flashes the moment the battery runs out of power. Is that normal? Is that a warning for the battery? Unfortunately the manual mentions nothing about the red LED... Are you using a Lipo or nimh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 7 hours ago, johninderby said: The Aeres sensored motor and Quicrun ESC are so SMOOTH? John What's the price on that motor John? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 19 minutes ago, Bigjimknickers said: What's the price on that motor John? About 48 quid but can sometimes be had for a bit less. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Gavster29 said: I've got a decent hitec stick controller it's an eclipse 3 channel, it's old and runs on 27mhz however I think I'll convert it to 2.4ghz and swap the battery to a lipo. The car stick transmitters tend to spring back, the reason the plane/helicopter ones don't is to allow finer movement on throttle/lift for example it makes hovering easier Sent from my TA-1033 using Tapatalk In my opinion Aviation transmitters are far superior for crawling unless you have a MOA crawler where you need different motor mixes, The spring in the throttle channeller is easyily remove or replaced I prefer not having it as it allowed you to bring the throttle up very slowly and once moving maintain any given speed with ease Edited September 8, 2017 by 6ft4Crawler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 My FTX is still in the build up process awaiting more aluminium parts, can't decide on a tyre choice now thinking to go with standard outlaw tyres on the alloy wheels but use proline foam inserts to stiffen them up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 During last week's ill fated evening woodland excursion (another stripped spur) I did experiment with lighting.Here is the buggy with my cycle light attached to the inside of the roof frame.And it worked a treat. The lights are £15 from Halfords, Inc battery, and attach via a rubber band.Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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