capri-boy Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 36 minutes ago, westerlycarrot9 said: The only charger i own is the one that came with the Outlaw. About the thing you said about leaving it at max discharge, well, from what i've read there's a debate about that. Some people say that this doesn't hurt the battery and some say it does. Personally i always leave it at max discharge after one run for 2-3 days since i don't run everyday and i've noticed no difference at all. IT all depends on what max discharge is. Many esc's don't take a lipo down too low unless you start altering settings - afterall RTR's are made for new entrants to the hobby mostly. Without knowing what voltage your lipo comes off use at there's no way of knowing. A couple days, even with a lipo right near the edge is prob ok, especially during the warmer weather. If a good basic lipo charger is not on your shopping lists then I'd recommend getting a plug in voltage checker - there a couple quid off eBay and plug into your balance lead on the lipo. There's no debate about leaving a lipo completely discharged to 3.0v a cell. If you do that, and the lipo bleeds voltage and drops below then it's knackered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Hi guys, I'm Kieren New to this forum as I see there's a healthy following for the FTX Outlaw, ive been into rc's for roughly 13yrs now and RC crawling for the past 6 years, As I'm sure many of you can relate to I've took and intrest to many other RC sports along the way Boats, Planes ect. Fancied a crawler capable of abit more pace for awhile now to take down the woods/river for a good hammering and found the FTX OUTLAW looks like a good starting place. I went for the brushed car as it was substantially cheaper and I plan to fit one of the brushless systems I have in my spares box, I will try and keep in touch and update you guys on my findings with my Outlaw and most likely be asking for info off those of you that have already come across many of the issues il most likely find along the way of increasing the power. Just because it's easier for me than logging onto the forum with the really poor internet connection I have in my village I've also created a Facebook page (FTX OUTLAW OWNERS) everyone's welcome just a place for people to easily share what they have been doing to there outlaw and possibly even get a few of us together at some point for a trail/tare up. https://www.facebook.com/groups/186675465206030/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Welcome matey! I did exactly the same as you, bought the brushed version and swiftly upgraded it to brushless.. excellent fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 4 minutes ago, t2boats said: Welcome matey! I did exactly the same as you, bought the brushed version and swiftly upgraded it to brushless.. excellent fun. Cheers bud, I have a cheap Hobbypower 4400kv 9t motor and matching 60A ESC in my spares box that has hardly been run, But after reading posts on here think it's abit overkill, And will most likely strip the pinion and or snap the rear plastic drive shaft (which will be upgraded sometime soon anyway as it's inevitable it will break) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Yeah some have had it break, depends on drivetrain and driving styles really. After hearing of the horror stories I quickly changed it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 15 minutes ago, t2boats said: Yeah some have had it break, depends on drivetrain and driving styles really. After hearing of the horror stories I quickly changed it! Out of intrest did you go for the FTX upgrade part or something else such as a universal metal prop shaft ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 Yes, FTX part. They seem to be out of stock quite often though. so as soon as you see them available I'd buy it as quick as you can. Direct from FTX was quicker for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 Yes the driveshaft is out of stock a lot of the time so grab one while you can.. In stock today though direct from FTX. http://ftx-rc.com/ftx-outlaw-steel-rear-central-cvd-front-half-1pc?search=Outlaw&page=9 John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 On 8/2/2017 at 22:21, 6ft4Crawler said: Out of intrest did you go for the FTX upgrade part or something else such as a universal metal prop shaft ? I never had a problem with the plastic one but I upgraded to the FTX metal one just in case. It's now showing signs of wear around the small UJ pin (as mentioned earlier in the thread) way to soon IMO. Therefore when it gets to the point that it needs replacing, I'll be looking for something different, or just going back to the standard one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 5 hours ago, Isle of Wight Basher said: I never had a problem with the plastic one but I upgraded to the FTX metal one just in case. It's now showing signs of wear around the small UJ pin (as mentioned earlier in the thread) way to soon IMO. Therefore when it gets to the point that it needs replacing, I'll be looking for something different, or just going back to the standard one. I've been, very slowly, restoring a T-Maxx and I've fitted new longer prop shafts to it (now has a long wheelbase) and from what I remember the new thick shafts look identical to what's on the Outlaw.. will have to have a look when I get back home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Been told the metal upgrade ones designed to go on the back of a RC4WD D90 are a straight fit but yet to test this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 (edited) I have the metal one, it's loose where it hooks up to the gear shaft both sides Edited August 5, 2017 by bosco72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 Good evening guys. I was wondering if any of you have changed the stock glue wheels to bead lock wheels. If so what are your suggestions? Both expensive and cheap wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 (edited) HPI Rock 8 beadlocks work well. Available in chrome or white. You can dye the white ones black easily. Here's mine with chrome wheels and Axial blue beadlock rings. The wheels come with stainless steel beadlock rings but the Axial beadlock rings fit perfectly. RC4WD steel wheels also work but are a lot more expensive, John Edited August 5, 2017 by johninderby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 11 hours ago, johninderby said: HPI Rock 8 beadlocks work well. Available in chrome or white. You can dye the white ones black easily. Here's mine with chrome wheels and Axial blue beadlock rings. The wheels come with stainless steel beadlock rings but the Axial beadlock rings fit perfectly. RC4WD steel wheels also work but are a lot more expensive, John Too much chrome for me I was actually looking at some of the Pro Line wheels but they are a bit expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) Guys what's your opinion on the Tactic TSX45 Servo that the Yeti and the Bomber use? Is it worth upgrading from the stock Outlaw? I know about the plastic gear that the TSX contains. Edited August 6, 2017 by westerlycarrot9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 The Turnigy 1501MG servo is better and cheaper. Lot more torque. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 1 hour ago, johninderby said: The Turnigy 1501MG servo is better and cheaper. Lot more torque. John I see. Actually the Turnigy is indeed better just by looking at the tech info. However, i've watched videos of the Turnigy one and it seems to be pretty noisy. By the way a question about the stock tires: although they are glued on the stock wheels, would it be possible to unglue them and place them on bead lock wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) Never noticed the noise of the Turnigy servo when in the car. Yes they can be removed but ungluing the tyres and keeping them usable can be a challenge. There are a number of methods that can be found by searching the forum. These tyres are pretty good and dirt cheap. Use them on my Outlaw. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4Pcs-Austar-2-2-125mm-1-10-Tires-for-1-10-RC4WD-D90-Axial-RC-Rock-Crawler-P1V9-/282598387234?hash=item41cc2d2e22:g:trIAAOSwx2VZhHUu John Edited August 6, 2017 by johninderby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 So after a week or so i received the upgrade parts today and now the car is ready to run again! However there is one thing i'm wondering about. I replaced the stock central shaft with the steel one and it seems that you can't really screw it in place and it's a bit loosen up. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco72 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 18 hours ago, westerlycarrot9 said: So after a week or so i received the upgrade parts today and now the car is ready to run again! However there is one thing i'm wondering about. I replaced the stock central shaft with the steel one and it seems that you can't really screw it in place and it's a bit loosen up. Is that normal? Mine screws in but very loose to not like plastic stock one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 26 minutes ago, bosco72 said: Mine screws in but very loose to not like plastic stock one If you mean the grub screw is loose, use a medium thread-lock, if you mean there's play when mounted on the output shaft then shim it, I had to with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 1 hour ago, bosco72 said: Mine screws in but very loose to not like plastic stock one Exactly. However i run for about an hour yesterday (running at top speed, crawling etc) and it's still in place so i guess it's normal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 1 hour ago, Isle of Wight Basher said: If you mean the grub screw is loose, use a medium thread-lock, if you mean there's play when mounted on the output shaft then shim it, I had to with mine. No not the screw. I'm talking about the whole thing at the points where it connects with the rest of the car. However as i just mentioned above after an hour or so of running it's still in place so i guess it's normal that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 No not the screw. I'm talking about the whole thing at the points where it connects with the rest of the car. However as i just mentioned above after an hour or so of running it's still in place so i guess it's normal that way.Yeah mines real loose too. Assumed it was as per. Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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