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OHOs 'Mad Max' Axial Yeti RTR


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As some may know, I had one of these previously, the kit version though.
Now, I sold it because it handled like absolute crap, so I didn't really consider another one, but having been to my LHS I got talking to the guy and he explained the RTRs come with a live front diff but my kit came with a lock front diff (now thinking about it, that would create the absolutely terrible handling) so I decided to take a gamble and picked up an RTR.
Happy to report, it handles 50x better than the kit one I had did.
I don't plan on going stupid on upgrades, but I know a few people enjoy looking at my pictures and watching my videos so I thought I'd make a thread for it :)
I first ran it on a 2s and thought it actually ran pretty good, for a 3150kv motor... I then ran it on 3s and realised it was completely unnecessary for what I want to use the truck for, so I'm sticking with 2s but I've ordered a range of pinions for it and plan on moving to about an 18-19 from the stock 16, just so it doesn't top out quite so quickly, but power wise, it's great on a 2s for my needs, motor was cold, ESC was cold, LiPo was cold, they fit better in the trays and I have more 2s than 3s, so an overall win.
Must admit, I'm impressed with how versatile it is, while I'm not the first to have one, I will still share my personal thoughts and insights because the ground I run on can be quite demanding sometimes, even if the footage doesn't always show it, so it'll be interesting to use it as a bit of a fast crawler and share my thoughts from that perspective, running alongside my SCX10.
Anyway, I'll stop rambling and show some pictures and videos... Hope you enjoy!

 

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Edited by Oh How Original
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31 minutes ago, thatRCguy said:

Eh? The kit yeti's have open diffs? Well mine does at least, its just got thickish oil in it. Did your kit one have a locker in the front?

 

Yeah, everyone has said it comes with a live front diff.

Mine was locked, obviously an Axial mistake and I just never really questioned it or realised.

Oh well, it's in the past and I'm enjoying this one :D

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If the other one had handled anything at all like this one, it would never ever have been sold.

It looked really good matching next to my SCX10, but handles like an absolute complete turd.

IMO the Yeti looks perfect and I am thoroughly enjoying using this one.

We found a new bash site tonight, completely by chance, it's a quarry, but they don't work weekend, it actually seems reasonably popular with dog walkers and nobody seems to mind, so we'll no doubt be heading here from time to time of an evening or weekend.

Few pictures I took tonight, although no video because it really was just a chance encounter.

 

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Does it feel more stable / planted?

How much heavier is a complete wheel than a complete original?

Do you think the damping needing adjusting now / increasing the oil viscosity?

 

Al.

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2 hours ago, atom3624 said:

Does it feel more stable / planted?

How much heavier is a complete wheel than a complete original?

Do you think the damping needing adjusting now / increasing the oil viscosity?

 

Al.

 

More stable/planted than what?

I didn't actually weigh the originals and they were full of water but from just holding them when they were new to now, these are definitely slightly heavier, but it's no longer a problem because these are sealed.

I have some Proline MOABs I could put onto these stock wheels though if I wanted to, then run those on my SCX10, maybe.

For my style, the suspension is pretty much bang on, it's fairly soft and bouncy and that's right for the terrain I use it on and the way I use it, it means it doesn't cock it's lef up under the tiniest amount of power like some do and it handles fairly well too.

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1 hour ago, atom3624 said:

Sounds good.

'Holed' or 'vented' wheels are more for the buggies and MT's which jump a lot.

 

Al.

 

In some ways yeah, in some ways they work on crawlers too, but this isn't really anything, they call it a rock racer, but I think it would need both diffs locked to work as a rock racer... To me it's just a general basher and I think sealed tyres are going to work better.

When at the quarry, I noticed a lot of stones getting in and kept making the steering stick.

So I've been working on some crud guards this evening.

Shall post a few pictures up when I've painted them.

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During the run in the quarry I noticed the steering getting stuck a lot due to little stones getting into the steering assembly.

So this evening I decided to make some crud/stone guards.

Made from styrene, mainly for testing purposes, I may make some out of thick rubber for durability and flexibility, but we'll see how these go to begin with.

 

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Zombie did make some crud guards in his thread, I've used it to great effect I'll try and post a pic on my yeti

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ive got crud guards on mine. They're made from black duck tape but do the job. I put them along the sides of the cage aswell to try stop water ingress. What are the hubs on those SSD wheels? pins or hex's?

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The wheels are neither, you have a choice when you choose the hubs, I prefer hex.

But I'm actually running the stock hubs at the moment because of the difference in offset for the rears, I've not yet bothered to work out how wide I'd need some Axial/RC4WD/VP ones to be.

Edited by Oh How Original
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Ah yeah, forgot about the adapters. There's a US company (don't think its vanquish) who make an adapter kit for the rear end which means you can run the front hub adaptors on the rear. It then makes the stock AR60 really wide and you get different shocks to put in. I didn't look into costs though. Oh, almost forgot, the kits all alloy parts as well and they give you 3mm alloy offset adaptors for the rear wheels. 

 

Come to think about it, its probably a really good idea and im talking myself into buying the kit :P

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32 minutes ago, Oh How Original said:

I find the stock plastic ones to be fine... With it being a hex their isn't a pin issue that the Wraith had, they come with hexes are standard on the Yeti.

SSD make a wide rear axle, that might be who you mean?

Yep, thats the kit i was on about. Im only looking at it because my 7mm hex driver wont fit in the tube to tighten the rear wheels, meaning i have to do them with the wrench you getbwith the kit so they arent super tight

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2 minutes ago, thatRCguy said:

Yep, thats the kit i was on about. Im only looking at it because my 7mm hex driver wont fit in the tube to tighten the rear wheels, meaning i have to do them with the wrench you getbwith the kit so they arent super tight

 

That won't make any difference to your wheelnuts chap.

The axles themselves are wider as are the housing and the lockouts, so everything will sit the same, it'll just be a bit wider.

The only way to alter that would be to change wheels to a different offset, so the wheelnuts doesn't go inside the wheel, or has a bigger opening.

My drive fits perfectly inside the stock wheels and inside these SSDs as well, it's only a cheap one off eBay, so you could even look at just buying a new driver?

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