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My Axial Yeti XL kit build


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So I have never owned anything larger than 1/10 scale and with a cheeky scratch card win I had some funds to venture into the next scale up. It's marked as 1/8 but every review/video/thread I have come across says it is bigger, whatever it is it will be my first time going this large and also my first experience with a power system that can handle more than 2s!

The kit has been ordered and so too has the electronics. I have gone with the new Castle Mamba Monster X esc with their 2200kv motor and a Savox 1210SG servo.

I reckon I will get some fresh lipos to go with it too but not sure which ones will be adequate? Like I said this is my first time going above 2s and with a 150a esc so any advice would be greatly welcome!

Any yeti xl owners have any other thoughts/upgrades that are needed?  

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I bought mine from Mond, he had added a whole raft of upgrades:

Ally rear arms and upper links

Ally front top plate

Upgraded rear drive shaft

Ally front diff

Ally steering set up

Baja yellow short springs for front shocks.

TBR front bumper

I've added RPM arms, TBR rear skid/diff protector and  have an ally motor plate to fit, along with a replacement steering set up as the current one is worn and sloppy.

He also fitted Team Fast Eddy bearings over the stock kit ones.....tbh, TFE bearings aren't super high quality, your local bearing supplier can get better for less money....

Running a Quicrun 150a ESC, castle BEC, 1512/1Y 2650kv can on 4s. Nice turn of speed without fear of tearing the drivetrains apart.

Been meaning to get some pics on the YXL thread.....will see what I can do, now I've finished painting the skull heads....

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Well that certainly is a whole lotta upgrades! I figure I will get round to them after a while if/when stuff breaks! I do have a nice fund for this model so im sure some alloy parts will get purchased soon. From what I have seen it is the stock steering set up which people seem to be addressing first right? Also do I need to purchase a BEC too? 

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You forgot the shock caps, diffs cases, rear shock mounts, trailing arm mounts and both sway bars. :P

You'll need to get aluminium shock caps. The stock ones will break. The rods on the rear sway bar also break the first time it gets cartwheeled. The stock ones are plastic and are more suitable for a 10th scale. Admittedly I went a little overboard but I wanted to be sure that I could reinforce what I could. The only parts I didn't get, which Noj did was the RPM arms. The stock ones break very easily.

Edited by mond
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Ha ha, sorry Mond, no disservice meant....doing the list from memory ;)

You don't have to run a BEC, I chose to as lights were a consideration and a Savox servo is fitted, however, may just run lights from a 3s lipo fitted in the 'fuel cell'. Tbh,as my flysky RX is only 6v rated, the BEC is actually a bit moot at the mo....still, leaves the onboard BEC happy away with little to do.

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You had me a bit worried there! I was pretty sure the MMX was a good choice but when one of the voices of rc knowledge says he wouldn't put it in his yeti I had to think twice! thanks for the advice so far guys, im sure I will be needing some more along the line.. 

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^^seconded.

At best, use as a visual aid only, nothing more.....

It does amaze me as to how a company that sells so many units is still unable to produce  a correct build manual.....

Job opportunity perhaps?? 

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First installment on the build. Had a good crack at this yesterday, managed to get the little one of to his grandparents for the afternoon so had the house to myself for a good ol’ building session!

This is not not going to be a super detailed build thread but I will try to add as many photos and my own personal experiences as I can along the way. This is my first ‘advanced’ kit build by which I mean not a Tamiya kit! And also first time in larger scale high power models… so it’s all new to me!

 

First up is Bag A and Plastic Bag 1

Front and rear diffs I found fairly straight forward to put together. Note to self not too squeeze diff oil bottle too hard next time! But all gears feel nice and heavy and sturdy looking, bearings seem a bit nasty but we’ll have to wait and see.

large.569b8e17acd63_IMG_8559(640x355).jp      large.569b8e1bcd9fc_IMG_8562(640x427).jp

 

So first thing I went for when I opened the plastic bag was the rear axle. It is a beast! Has the feel of good strong thick plastic, nice bit of weight to it and just looks huge. Assembly was no problem apart from one little hiccup of me not having a long enough hex driver to reach up the inside the rear drive shaft. That was soon rectified and bag A was finished.

I see what guys mean about the instruction manual! I’m only a few pages in and already have noticed the mistakes popping up!

large.569b8e283d6c7_IMG_8565(469x640).jp          large.569b8e1fd8c6c_IMG_8564(300x640).jp        large.569b8e2fe565a_IMG_8566(473x640).jp

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Bag B + C  and Plastic Bag 2

Advancing at a nice pace with this I reckon. Not been anything too tricky I’ve found, sure there are the odd screws which try your patience. Also you really have to look and then look twice at diagrams to make sure they are going in right holes and so on but all in all quite happy with results so far.

 

large.569d04484641d_IMG_8568(640x419).jp    large.569d04412c954_IMG_8567(441x640).jp     large.569d04511a74e_IMG_8569(640x409).jp

Pretty much got most of front section done in my last building session. Steering set up and servo saver done too. From what I have read this seems to be a weak point and one of the first upgrades that get done.  I am going to build it stock to start with and see what it’s like before thinking about upgrades.  

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So build is going nicely, just a quick question about my power connections.. As I have never used more than one lipo in a car before what do I need to run two? basically what is the difference between the Y connectors out there? parallel or series? I figure I have to solder my battery connection to esc like normal and then get one of these Y things to hook up both batteries. This is probably quite a noob question but can someone just lay it out for me!! thanks

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parallel means if you have a 2x 2s 2000  = 2s but 4000mah    or series means 2x 2s 2000 = 4s  but 2000mah

so if you fit just one plug to the ESC that gives you the option of using a Y lead for parallel or series

Edited by turok007
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So I could make a series connection with just my regular battery connections and some spare wire? What gauge wire would be best suitable for my power needs? I have ordered some floureon 6400mah 40c 2s lipos. Anyone have experience with these? are they any good? 

So with the Y from what I have seen it needs to be like this right? joining the 2 battery connectors together buy the negatives and the connect the 2 to the esc connector? 

 

 

$_57.jpg

Edited by flashdaniels
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Getting one of these on Saturday. Could I sling the Mamba Monster Max 2 in there or would the X be better?

 

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/castle-mamba-monster-max-2-with-nc1515-2200kv-motor/rc-car-products/373557

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