MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Good morning my son was bought a ftx carnage nt for Christmas but we can't start it. It was brand new and we followed a video on you tube on how to start and break in the engine but ours dosnt do anything what his did in the video lol. For starters we can't even get the fuel to leave the tank? We covered the exhaust and pulled the starter like he said but nothing. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thedrum2010 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Whereabouts are you based, maybe local to me if the clues in the name ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Middlewich, Cheshire, cw10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thedrum2010 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Ah OK, not too local then, I'm wirral. Thought I could've had a look at it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasRC Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 2 hours ago, MerseyRed said: Good morning my son was bought a ftx carnage nt for Christmas but we can't start it. It was brand new and we followed a video on you tube on how to start and break in the engine but ours dosnt do anything what his did in the video lol. For starters we can't even get the fuel to leave the tank? We covered the exhaust and pulled the starter like he said but nothing. Any ideas? To prime the engine you cover the exhaust and pull the starter. It will need to be a few pulls. You should see the fuel in the tube going from tank to the carb. Make sure nothings loose. Does it feel like it's going to start at all or your literally getting no fuel flowing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian w Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Get your son to hold the throttle open (without the the glow plug ignitor on) then try and prime it again. If that don`t work take the pressure pipe of that is on top of the exhaust and gently blow down it till you see fuel enter the carb, this is sometimes the best way to prime the engine. Hope this helps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 8 minutes ago, ThomasRC said: To prime the engine you cover the exhaust and pull the starter. It will need to be a few pulls. You should see the fuel in the tube going from tank to the carb. Make sure nothings loose. Does it feel like it's going to start at all or your literally getting no fuel 8 minutes ago, ThomasRC said: To prime the engine you cover the exhaust and pull the starter. It will need to be a few pulls. You should see the fuel in the tube going from tank to the carb. Make sure nothings loose. Does it feel like it's going to start at all or your literally getting no fuel flowing? That's what we have been doing but there is no fuel flowing at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 4 minutes ago, Ian w said: Get your son to hold the throttle open (without the the glow plug ignitor on) then try and prime it again. If that don`t work take the pressure pipe of that is on top of the exhaust and gently blow down it till you see fuel enter the carb, this is sometimes the best way to prime the engine. Hope this helps Cheers will give that a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasRC Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 3 minutes ago, MerseyRed said: Cheers will give that a go What he said is the best way to prime to be honest, had to do that with my turnigy nitro rumble from hobbyking everytime when i had it. Once you get fuel flowing double check the normal things such as needle settings, Glow plug is in tight. And your glow ignitor is charged. Check your carb opening is around the 1.5mm mark. and your throttle/steering/braking is 100% functional Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasRC Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 if you do struggle to get it started you can use a hair dryer to heat the engine, that always helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 I have it running now u it is idling quite quick and smoking quite a bit. I have took a short video but it won't let me upload as it's to big Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian w Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) Don`t worry about the smoke that just means it is running rich wich will do no harm. When you say it is idling quickly is the clutch engaging are the wheels turning if so then check your transmitter settings ie: is the throttle trim turned up. Also check the gap in the carb, take the airfilter of look down into the carb, when the throttle is closed there should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm. I presume this is a new car? take it steady on the running in. If you have a Youtube account upload your video to there and copy the URL to here. Edited December 27, 2015 by Ian w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 I don't have a you tube account. My transmitter is set to 0 so shouldn't be doing anything but yes the wheels still go around. Am I right in thinking the gap in the carb is altered by the idle screw? It seems to be running, quite badly, but then it will rev up and stall. Think it may be aswel to go to a model shop and ask them set it up. Don't know if they will tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian w Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 9 minutes ago, MerseyRed said: Am I right in thinking the gap in the carb is altered by the idle screw? Yes you are right on that. It will run badly untill it has run in. I would advise you to stick with it as a model shop will do it but will charge quite heavily for doing it. Nitro engines can be frustrating at the start have patience and you will get there. At least you have got it running that is a big step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) 1 hour ago, MerseyRed said: I don't have a you tube account. My transmitter is set to 0 so shouldn't be doing anything but yes the wheels still go around. Am I right in thinking the gap in the carb is altered by the idle screw? It seems to be running, quite badly, but then it will rev up and stall. Think it may be aswel to go to a model shop and ask them set it up. Don't know if they will tho Nope they will charge you an arm and a leg and you will be still in the same place as you are today, because you still know a little less than you need to know. ok. nitro engines can be a pain but some simple things you will learn will help huge amounts. a nitro engine will run best when it has a certain temp, they like to be hot runners, the engine head can reach temps of 180+, and vaopurise water splashes on contact. when you first get your engine its what we call tight, its going to feel all stiff and new, and its going to sound and run very doggish ( ruff ruff lol), they tend to be set very loosely so smoke a lot and stutter or even stall out when given some throttle. you also find they are creepers to, no throttle but the car wheels move still. this is down to its settings. first off there are a couple screws on the engine, one is a high speed needle ( top end power ) the other a low speed needle ( bottom end power ) there can be a third needle and is on most engines, this is a gapping screw. TAKE OFF YOUR AIR FILTER NOW - ( got it removed ? ) inside you will see Nothing, it should be a silver butterfly valve that should be very nearly fully closed. if you look careful down into the carb there is a small gap between the butterfly valve and the carb body itself, this is your idle gap. we adjust the idle screw so this gap is about 1- 1.5mm , adjusting this screw when the engine is running you will notice when opened up the engine revs more higher (tick over) and when you close this gap the engine idle comes down to. so aim for a gap between 1mm and 1.5mm. the lower the tick over the less the clutch spins up and should not engage the driveline. if its set a little to high it can cause the car to get to much fuel and air then stall out and stutter - splutter. but this gap is different for all carbs and drivers to so its for you to adjust until your happy with the engine ticking over but not low enough to stall itself yet low enough to not allow the clutch to engage. warming up and breaking in. as its a cold old day and its some what wet in the uk, grab the wifes hairdryer and fully charge up the glowplug starter, some buggys have a fuel primer pump on the tank, its a small plunger that needs pumping to force up the fuel ( when engine is running it bypasses some of the exhuasts outlet into the fuel tank to pump fuel through) if you do not have this tank pump, you can remove the tube that comes from the exhaust to the tank and blow down it. or you can wet the end of your thumb (to help seal the gap) and pop it over the exhaust, and give the pullstart around 10 short pulls, it may take even more to build up enough pressure to pump fuel into the carb. once the fuel comes up and enters carb pull the starter out once, then twice. now place your glow starter onto the engine and give it short but firm tugs on the pullstart ( you need to hold down the model ). if it fails to start we can warm up the engine head with the hairdryer to help loosen up everything and add some heat so things fire up and compress better. when running find a brick or two and place the machine so its sitting with its wheels above the ground, (let that full tank just burn through on low idle etc etc as manual states ) then go out for a very gentle drive on the second tank do not go crazy, you must take the time to let the engine seat itself and bed in good. a couple more tanks and your done. its then onto adjusting the high speed needle and low speed needle settings aka tuning the power output of the top end speed and the bottom end take off and mid range Edited December 27, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Wheels turning though is sometimes not avoidable, depends on your clutch. My truggy idles correctly, but the wheels are still turning because the clutch is just crap. If the carb gap is set correctly (around 1mm) and you still have a high idle, you could have an air leak. I don't have a carnage, but in general, did the manual specify something about "break in settings"? The engine is supposed to run very rich on break in, i don't know how they come out of the box. And, most importantly, if you don't want to get a tennis arm, and don't have a starter box, preheat the engine with a heat gun/hairdryer. It helps heaps. 180 degrees on the engine head, are you talking fahrenheit or celsius? 180 degrees celsius will cook the engine. Safe range is between 100 and 120 degrees. And that's at the glow plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have it now so it starts quite easy but still idles to fast and the car drives off. I have my transmitter set to 0 and the carb opening at around 1mm. So not sure why it still drives off lol I have run a full tank of fuel thru it and a steady run around the garden and now I have left it. The one thing I can't get it to do is reverse. Do they reverse or just brake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thedrum2010 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) No reverse on nitro in general. Certainly not yours. Edited December 27, 2015 by Thedrum2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thedrum2010 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) Also if the car is running away at idle you can either reduce your idle gap the tiniest amount or preferably turn your throttle trim on the transmitter anticlockwise a touch. 1mm carb gap Is only a general guideline. Also if you can get a couple more full tanks through it with wheels of the ground this will prevent run aways and help settle the engine down. Also ensure that when you have finished running, that your piston is at the bottom of its travel (bottom dead centre) or bdc. You can check this by removing the glow plug and turning the flywheel by hand, this will prevent your engine from seizing. Also heat the head and engine block with a hairdryer before any cold start to ease starting. Edited December 27, 2015 by Thedrum2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 Ok that explains why I couldn't reverse lol. I will just have another mess tomorrow keep doing it in bits as it's annoying me. Thanks again for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Keep in mind, too small of an idle gap, and you can't start the engine properly anymore. Rolling is something many cars do, sometimes you just can't get it out of the car. Even when properly tuned. A weak clutch that engages at too low RPM is all it takes. Also, a too lean LSN can increase idle RPM. Or, again, an air leak, which happens on RTRs. I went through exactly the same process as you, three weeks ago. Also asking why my car is running away while idling (slowly anyway), etc - everything adjusted correctly from what i could tell. Turned out to be an air leak. How's the car behaving otherwise? If you leave it alone, how long does it idle until it dies/bogs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasRC Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 This is why i went with electric.. Your model shop might be able to help you out the local one to me is a nice chap and only charges a little! You'll want them to help guide you through it. Give them a call or email. Wont hurt asking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4inbrain Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I agree, electric for pure bashing is alot easier. To me, wrenching is part of the fun though, i converted from electric because of it. Wrenching with your son beats electric every time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MerseyRed Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Would just like to say thanks for your help the car seems to be running very well now. That was up to the point where my wife hit the curb and bent the shock absorber shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) 45 minutes ago, MerseyRed said: Would just like to say thanks for your help the car seems to be running very well now. That was up to the point where my wife hit the curb and bent the shock absorber shaft lol Death BY Spouse aka DBS syndrome . yeah you get this sometimes, and there is just no way to stop it ( sacking the wife is all good but trying to record and bash is near impossible) , we also cannot use the you bend it you mend it stance, no way would i want my wife yanking a part my machine and rebuilding it ( we got 5 screws left over as spare darling aint that good ). But there is a goodness from this, it now shows you MUST have a second machine for wife to mess with ( if you ever let her near it that is lol ) , and you have that " we you did hit he kerb hard love we need something more stronger, like a petrol baja b5 ". More serious note, hope the young lad enjoyed the buggy and getting it going and the few few tanks, usually find front arms take the most damage. and if the shocks shaft is a little bent, check the ARM joint where it joins to the chassis (lower A arm can pull itself from the plastic holes and break, its a common area to give way under big kerbies and tree faceplants into them.) having a spare front left and right arm and a spare front left-right hub. the rear end tends to take the least amount of impact force, its usually the shocks that go here first from huge jumps and miss landings. most in time will upgrade shocks to big bore ( big bore means they hold more oil and have larger springs and bodys) , powerstrokes come to mind a very good shock system but they can become expensive. most companys will run aftermarket parts called hop ups. you tend to find shocks and other things added as upgrade parts, the stock shocks are good for a time but not that great after a while. Fuel wise. its best to try and stick to one make of fuel, like modeltechnics (dont touch this stuff) or going into what we call race fuel. the bigger the nitro content the more bang = the more power. they usual content bashers will use is 25% nitro mix fuel and it tends to be a race fuel to like odonalds etc etc Edited December 29, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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