Martyn_T Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Hello forum experts, OK, so my Maverick overturned in a car park/dirt track and hit a brick at pace. Outcome is I've got a little crack on the shell of my Blackout XB. I did a search on youtube and saw this video that describes using plasterers tape and shoe goo to offer some protection. Does anyone have any positive or negative experiences of this... and also can they suggest any adhesive other than shoe goo? Also - any other suggestions for fixing the cracked roof. It isn't too bad but thought I would take the opportunity to toughen up the edges too. Cheers for any ideas gents (and ladies). Martyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolly_roger_uk Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I don't think you'll beat shoe goo and dry wall tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangarilla Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 (edited) agreed, Jolly Roger, not cheap but does the trick, tried fibreglass no good B & Q for the tape for a few quid and i think its Edited April 28, 2015 by kangarilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn_T Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Right-o. I've got the tape already and eBayed the shoe-goo seems as I cannot find a local supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Ebay has some at around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Ther might be cheaper deals too, check that the tube size is 110ml tho which is the biggest. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHOE-GOO-CLEAR-Tube-of-Glue-Adhesive-110ml-3-7oz-Trainer-All-Shoe-Repair-/161657293402?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a3868a5a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn_T Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Hi everyone, I went online last night and ordered the 110ml tube from eBay. The crack isn't huge - it spreads out like a bullet has hit some bullet-proof glass. About diameter of 10p piece. Thought I would try and give it some support from the inside and also a few other areas too that might be susceptible. Cheers everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Perhaps drill a small hole at the end of each split in the plastic, before gluing: will prevent the split getting longer..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpmart Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Perhaps drill a small hole at the end of each split in the plastic, before gluing: will prevent the split getting longer..... What Noj says, drill each end of the crack, shoe goo and scrim tape and the job, as they say, is a gud un! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn_T Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) OK gents, I have taken a photo of the cracked shell because I am not sure the crack is so bad. However, if it is, I have circled the areas I suspect I should be drilling through. Can someone confirm this is correct? Thanks, Martyn. Edited April 30, 2015 by Martyn_T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangarilla Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Id be tempted to cover the inside of it behind the cracks and not drill this, not quite as bad as i thought. while your doing it though place several strips of the tape 50-70 long on all support points for added strength. Just my opinion, though and set epa to 10 % so it goes really slowly and you wont crash again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn_T Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hmm... thanks for that. If you saw how I normally drive the car you'd think my EPA was already at 10% :-) I'm torn now because I asked for advice and I have always got good advice from this forum. I will have a good look and probably do a bit of both - the deeper cracks will get the hole attention and everywhere will get the tape and shoe goo treatment. I will do all potential weak points on the shell too. I found a further crack below one of the windows so that certainly needs some strengthening. Cheers everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 (edited) nooo dont shoe goo it. go brab some fine mesh fibreglass matting and a two part 30m cure resin get the following ready. new brush clean or a very small paint roller. a decent pot to hold your resin in. a pair of silicon based gloves to protect your hands and masking tape to mask of the exterior of the shell, we dont want resin on this so mask it off. AN OPEN AREA TO WORK ( please do not risk your lungs this stuff stinks for a reason its carciogenic) so first off we are not gonna load up the shell, just add a single layer of glass inside, or two layers if you wish. so dip your brush into your mixed up resin and paint it onto the inner of your shell, DONT press to hard and rub pain of just brush it on thin. now lay down your glass mat onto this sticky resin base, take your brush and wet the tip in resin, now dab and paint it into the glass fibre mat. you should notice the glass mat start to wet up ( goes from white to a clear'ish color) , use the brush to work your mat into corners and around and over profile curves and dents. work quick as you have 30 mins exact before this stuff starts to go off like a rock.... LEAVE IT TO FULLY CURE 24-48hrs atleast. then use a dremal to burnish of any overhangs left over around the bottom of shell. drill out your mount holes again and you are done. one beefed up basher shell. now if it shatters or breaks you have resin left from your first layout and maybe some matting left for any repairs that need doing. you can add extra layers in key areas like the areas around the body pins, the front fender the rear quarter pannels teh top of the roof deck. YOU WILL NOT have a clear window it will be glassed over internal unless your able to mask it out and thats unlikely, but its gonna take a beating again once more and last longer than just lexan alone Edited May 1, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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