Martyn_T

Cheers Bane, I went on to a site that had the dimensions and was able to compare against mine. I've got one on order now. Cheers for your reply.

Alright everyone. Its been years since I've been on this forum and wasn't very active even then. I've got a Maverick Blackout XB which has been discontinued for a while. I've started cleaning mine up and found the pull start mechanism isn't working. The rope itself broke a couple of years ago and I was able to replace that (great!) and it has kept going since then. So, with all that background I need to replace the mechanism. The question is, as the Blackout is discontinued, if I get one for a Baja, can I expect it to fit? Alternatively, anywhere I can get the dimensions for the Baja starter cover (the four bolt holes in particular)?

I am really liking the look of that truck. I am led to believe there are a few differences - like the fuel tank is the 'other' way round (filller cap I think). Dunno why fuel should leak from tank. I have heard in the past of people drilling through the cap and rubber seal under the cap to allow it to breathe more easily but I would be surprised if it has only had 10 minutes drive time before you got it. Interesting how it was for sale in this country... I thought Redcat Rampage was US territory? Bet there aren't that many in the UK. I like the look of it a lot.

Like the look of this... glad you think it is solid because I think my Blackout is pretty solid. Trouble is, I have nothing to compare it to. How much of the DNA is the same as the Maverick Blackout XB? I can see most of it looks very similar. Shell is different and the metal plate on the roll cage has an access hatch (I guess?) for the spark plug. Reason I am asking in particular is I am off to the US next month and thought I might get some gear while over there. Parts look similar but doesn't necessarily mean the same... Price of kit over there is a lot cheaper so thought I would stock up on Rampage parts if they are the same.

Hmm... thanks for that. If you saw how I normally drive the car you'd think my EPA was already at 10% :-) I'm torn now because I asked for advice and I have always got good advice from this forum. I will have a good look and probably do a bit of both - the deeper cracks will get the hole attention and everywhere will get the tape and shoe goo treatment. I will do all potential weak points on the shell too. I found a further crack below one of the windows so that certainly needs some strengthening. Cheers everyone.

OK gents, I have taken a photo of the cracked shell because I am not sure the crack is so bad. However, if it is, I have circled the areas I suspect I should be drilling through. Can someone confirm this is correct? Thanks, Martyn.

Hi everyone, I went online last night and ordered the 110ml tube from eBay. The crack isn't huge - it spreads out like a bullet has hit some bullet-proof glass. About diameter of 10p piece. Thought I would try and give it some support from the inside and also a few other areas too that might be susceptible. Cheers everyone.

Right-o. I've got the tape already and eBayed the shoe-goo seems as I cannot find a local supplier.

Hello forum experts, OK, so my Maverick overturned in a car park/dirt track and hit a brick at pace. Outcome is I've got a little crack on the shell of my Blackout XB. I did a search on youtube and saw this video that describes using plasterers tape and shoe goo to offer some protection. Does anyone have any positive or negative experiences of this... and also can they suggest any adhesive other than shoe goo? Also - any other suggestions for fixing the cracked roof. It isn't too bad but thought I would take the opportunity to toughen up the edges too. Cheers for any ideas gents (and ladies). Martyn.

If it's owt like mine was it will wait until it is as far away as you want to take it before it chooses to cut out again. Good luck with it.

I had a similar problem with a different brand of kill switch. I discovered my connections weren't as good as they could have been. In fact, it took me a few attempts to get it right. Other advice I had been given on the issue was 1. check spark plug cap is properly pushed on 2. check/replace for quality spark plug. One further thing I have done (but don't know if it has or would make a difference) is to wrap the cable around one of those little magnets you see on some laptop power cables. Supposed to stabilise the signal but like I said, no evidence to suggest this helped on not). Happy to report that my K/S is working perfectly now though. Hope that helps a bit. Edited to add image.

I feel your pain mate... I am a total newb to RC and my car spent more time in the garage (well, back room) than out bashing. I have remained persistent and every problem I've come across I've sorted - primarily thanks to the help from this forum. Hopefully you enjoyed a day out with the sun on your back in any case, even if there wasn't as much track time as you were anticipating.

Not a daft question but the 25:1 is any unit of measure - you could use 25 eggcups (of fuel) to one eggcup of oil. As long as you use the same unit of measure the 25:1 ratio remains the same (hence, it is a ratio, with no unit of measure). FWIW I use a measuring jug for the larger volumes (fuel) and syringe for the smaller volumes (oil). Once they are measured I put them in the old style mixer bottles and shake it all up. Hope this helps (I am hopeless with mechanics and R/C but I do know a bit about science ;-) ).

I've managed to get mine off by manoeuvring it around like those old toys with the hoop and the electric wire - just keep being patient with it and it comes off eventually when all the angles are just right. ;-)

OK no probs... I am sure someone might be along soon with some experience to tell us what they do...

After you have cleaned components do you use anything to protect the metal and other finishes? I've been stripping parts of my Blackout XB and would like to protect the metalwork when I can reach it - if there is something appropriate to keep them safe from oxidation etc.

I'll add my thumbs up to what Bez wrote - Kays Fasteners are near me and they are really helpful. Made my first purchase with them off eBay before I realised they are about 3 miles away from where I live! I got in touch with them and arranged to collect and it is a real Aladdin's cave for everything to do with bolts etc. Only thing they didn't have was those shoulder bolts. When I asked him about them he said because of the massive number of variants in those types (internal/external thread and shoulder height). I did the same thing as you're suggesting though Ian - went through the parts list (this was for the Maverick Blackout XB) and just bought them all from him. I think it was about 10 quid in total. Hope that helps. Martyn.

Ian W and Nitro, Thanks both for the help... the image is really helpful and saved me actually emailing HPI to ask if they had any info sheets on replacing the discs. I have got a FlySky FS-GT3C Transmitter but I think I have gone as far as it will go with the end point. I suspect rather than the disks being worn down they are fouled with grease or oil (there have been a few problems with the expansion chamber coming loose and all sorts of exhaust stuff being fired all over the vehicle. I did clean it up as best I could before refitting (with thread lock this time, LOL) but I wasn't able to easily reach the brake disks. That pic is really helpful though. I am new to all this (only been doing this 12 months) so I don't know if this is something most people would already know... but it is a shame the forum doesn't have a repository of images like this that people can refer to. I did do a google search on a strip-down of a XB but there was nothing - just a load of youtube vids of people driving them. Anyway - once again, thanks for the help and advice... it has set me off in the right direction. Martyn.

Cheers Nitro - I'll take your advice on board when I start the strip down. There are two ? ceramic disks which are placed in contact with three angled metal plates when brakes are applied through the servo.

Yeah - I have a Blackout XB which shares lots of components and mine did that after probably same amount of time. Ebay sorted me out with a metal alternative and it has been fine after the swap. (I am newb and learning all the time. This was one of the first things that bust on my XB).

Morning all, I've just ordered some new brake pads for my Maverick Blackout XB because I have noticed recently it has been taking longer and longer to come to a stop when attempting to brake. (When it was new it could stop within about 4 metres from top speed on grass - you really could rely on them). Now they don't seem to do anything but hold it at a standstill when it is stopped, if that makes sense (for example it would hold on a hill or something). As I am still new to all this - is there anything I can do to inspect the brakes to check if they are still serviceable? Or do I just accept that as they are not effective, that they need replacement? Finally, if anyone has any online guides on how to do this then please point me in the right direction because they do look like I need to take half the car apart to replace the disks. Cheers for any thoughts. Martyn.

My Blackout seems to get pretty hot and will just stop for a while. Once it cools down it starts up again without a problem. (Unless it is raining I suppose ;-) )

Dunno if all manuals say this (I have an XB) but it does say don't run it in sand. Though I am sure everyone will ignore that. "Do not run in water or sand."

Alright gents and ladies, New to this. I live near The Nook so could easily go there - and have driven past it loads in the past without realising there was a RC track there! So I am writing this post to canvass opinion on what is a good bashing site. I guess there are no right or wrong answers here. Thanks for any thoughts. Martyn.

Looks mean. I like to see what people do with their Blackouts. I've got a vanilla Blackout XB and am enjoying it as it is at the moment. We have the same floor tiles in our kitchen too.