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Scratch build rock crawler


mxfun

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Been a while since i've been on here . I'm back with a fresh enthusiasm and want to build my own rock crawler from scratch ,as in making the chassis tie bars and the like ,but i need a starting point which i'm struggling with (great start) .Does anyone Have any plans or dimensions ,also what size of wheels should i use ,and finally which axles . Should mention i'd like to keep costs down . I have motors and some other bits n bobs i'm hoping to use .

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sean   

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It all depends what sort of crawler you require - 1.9 scalers are sometimes classed as crawlers but a proper crawler is 2.2 (wheel size)

 

Maverick scout would be a good shout if on a budget. It'll give you a good start base with axles, tranny and wheels then develop a chassis from there?

 

Ps: I have moved the topic over to the Rock Crawler section for you :good: 

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Not really interested in buying  a RTR crawler more interested in designing(or try to at least) and building my own from scratch using raw materials . :yes:

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Not really interested in buying  a RTR crawler more interested in designing(or try to at least) and building my own from scratch using raw materials . :yes:

 

Well unless your planning on designing your own axles, gearbox and propshafts, your going to need a donor vehicle of some sort fella, :thumbsup:

 

Any suggestions on a decent budget axle

Hmmm, decent and budget don't really mix to be fair fella, the cheapest would be maverick scout, the most popular and toughest for the money would be the axial scx10 axles, if you want something wider then the wraith axles.

Or if you want super scale looking, expensive and fragile axles, take a look at the rc4wd offerings......

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I got a Scout donor for sale mate with loadsa dpares

 

 

Hi, how much you looking for it . 

 

 

Hi,what spares and how much you looking for it .

 

Gents,

 

Can we stick to discussing the topic rather turn the thread into a transaction. Please PM each other in future :good:  

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Ok thats axles sorted Clod Busters are on their way . Will these accept the 540 motor .and also on the battery front ,cant i use two Ni-Cd batteries together at the same time if you know what i mean 

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Very quite this place unless i'm boring y'all with my questions . Oh well in for a penny in for a pound ,wheels best suited for clodbuster axle 

Edited by mxfun
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You're trying for something not many go for in all honesty, hence lack of answers. You can try to do your own thing, but most has already been done so re-inventing the wheel is going to draw a blank.

A bit of googling will bring you far more promise, have you seen this site

Links will have to be made from your own axles, either made or purchased. Unless you're very competent you will need to buy many off the shelf components, axles at the very least imo. Most of the builds on here are based around the SCX10 and tend to be more 'scaler' than out and out MOA crawler. 

 

Good luck with the build still :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally made a start on the chassis ,might be a tad on the large size still waiting for wheels to arrive to compare dimensions.

b342e7e5c6f0995b3191706000da58ae.jpg

Edited by mxfun
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Bit more tonight ,servo shifted to new position . Feel free to jump in and say whether I'm doing right or wrong [emoji1]

0711c0879676ce9ae419e8ae93ddf0b6.jpg

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I'm watching with interest, not having tinkered with any moa stuff before. If you're not too fussed with the looks, anywhere for the servo can be used so long as you get the travel and it's fixed soldly.

 

Use the chassis you've built so far to help finalise your link positions, you'll probably want to play about with their locations before maybe making your final design?

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I'm only building this because of a mate at work has built one or two , it's something i've toyed with for years so just thought nows as good as any    . If my wheels come this week i should be well on hopefully .Think i might end up cutting the bottom off the chassis yet ,i'm undecided . Once i get the wheels i'll have a better idea of which direction to  go .  

 

Thanks for your interest :thumbsup: . 

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I prefer to see some real effort and appreciation for the build. Always good to see something different :)

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Is it possible to to run two motors and two servos off one speed controller and one reciever .Real newb question 

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You can try running 2 servos, you may find that the esc doesn't have the grunt though. You'd be better served with a BEC to help take the load off the esc. The BEC can usually be set at a higher voltage (say 6V?) and this will further improve most servos. I have a savox that will draw over 2.5A and that would either brown out my esc or destroy the onboard power regulators. 

 

As for 2 motors, I believe you can but you have to be careful of the motor turns. iirc, and please double check, if the speed controller has a lower limit of 15T you can use 2 35T motors as 35/2 = 17.5T. For crawling you'll probably be fine, it's not like we need top speed for too long on the rocks. Trailing can be a different matter...

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The motors I'm using are from two Tamiya Gravel hounds and I've no idea what turn motors they are . How about running two speed controllers prob asking a bit much now [emoji1]

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lol, getting more complicated now.... All as far as I know,

 

1 battery to feed 2 esc can be done. Each esc to a single motor - Yes, OK :) But... on one of the esc you need to break out the red lead at the servo/rx plug - you only want the signal and the ground to one esc. The receiver will take it's power from the other (fully wired) esc and power both servos if sufficiently powerful. Under no circumstances are the 2 esc red wires to come into contact with each other, they will fight each other, not combine.

 

The servos will need to be connected to the same channel for them to operate together, assuming 4 wheel steer and not independent steering? The red lead I mentioned to remove on one ESC, you could use that to power the second servo and remove the red power lead and ground from the servo loom, allowing only the signal wire to go to the receiver. 

 

It's easy to get wrong but not too difficult in the general scheme of things. Some plugs are brown for power others are red. Signal is usually white or yellow. Take your time, I think I'm right, multimeter it if you can to double check.

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