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OHO's Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler G6.


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  • 2 months later...

a quick  question, I  understand the G6 wheels/tyres need glueing, which is out of my shallow depth. I note you got the SSD-RC D hole steel beadlocks, can these be used with the stock tyres?

 

 

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a quick  question, I  understand the G6 wheels/tyres need glueing, which is out of my shallow depth. I note you got the SSD-RC D hole steel beadlocks, can these be used with the stock tyres?

 

 

They certainly can and they give a really nice fit and seal as well.

Great all round set up in my opinion, my Rok Lox are a little better on rocks, as the name suggests, but for the most part the stock tyres work great in most conditions.

I'd strongly advised cutting the foams into star shapes though to really give the tyres a bit of bend.

Hope that helps.

 

Just to add, be sure to buy the 1.9 SSD's obviously, otherwise you'll have trouble fitting them onto stock tyres.

Edited by Oh How Original
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  • 1 month later...

First run in ages and first run of 2016 with this little beasty, even in the most unusual of places (a small rock pile and crap heap in the middle of a friends field) it still brings a smile to my face, I forgot the strap for my DSLR so it was a little difficult getting myself into good photo situations but I took a few anyway.

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Well, it would appear I'm officially a CI convert!
I actually (no disrespect to CI meant) thought they'd make no difference at all, my rig is hardly comp ready or a professional set up so I assumed the foams wouldn't make a huge difference.
I was wrong.
Only put fronts in right now just to test, rears are going in shortly, and I can already tell the grip is better, going on advice from the website, I ordered the right kind, size and rigidity based on my tyre size and rig weight... They have definitely made a difference.
Even after fitting them, I thought they'd be far too hard because I've been used to having a very soft foam.
Only got to do a quick test in the garden, but it shows below, that with the old foams, they squashed down too much, I couldn't get up this rock from a dead straight position with the old foams... I can now, just it's definitely an improvement and just shows these have definitely worked, better grip and more ground clearance.
I also found going up that little rock (which actually my bumper used to get caught on and doesn't now either) that the front wheels actually gripped better to pull the rear up too, looking forward to a proper test with all 4 changed.
Same situation with the second rock, it might be a bit difficult to see, but there is a drop before it and my front bumper used to always get caught up on it... It doesn't anymore.
Fitting them was also helped by my dog Jayde and my friend Jack Sparrow :P
The first picture actually shows a good shot of the size difference, just as Jayde decided she needed to give them a sniff test lol.

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Jack just getting the wheel off!

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He made ME do the foam!
But he did offer to put them back on.

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Same pressure applied to both the rear first (stock foam) and the front, with the Crawler Innovations 4.50" Lil' Nova with a soft outer.

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Again, this may not look like much (and it isn't) but perfectly straight onto it, I just to get caught up on my bumper.

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And the same thing here.

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And why not pose a bit LOL!

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I know other folk have probably done much better write ups, but so far, I'm happy with these.

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You can tell I'm bored!
Decided to switch the electrics round, for one sole reason, these big 3s packs I have don't sit at the rear very well.
Not quite sure why but something didn't seem very happy so decided to just put it at the front because I'd measured up and knew it would work.
Only one slight concern and that's how hot the motor may get so close to the LiPo, but eh, the worst thing that will happen is it'll set on fire.

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How does it compare from the battery at the rear?

I'm tempted to do the same to mine. Does the receiver box just screw into the rear cross member where the plastic battery tray secured? Did you re use the little bits that secure to the side rails and bolt through the inside of the receiver box?

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No difference, I didn't change it to make a difference, it was purely because the battery fit better at the front :)
IMO, there's no valid reason to move the battery, unless you're also moving it down and across the chassis, THAT will make a difference, because the CoG is moving closer to the middle and lower.
It's still up high weight at the front, coming down stuff will be difficult with a big battery.
People rant and rave about how amazing it is to move the battery and it's more placebo effect than anything else, yes it might see better for going up steep stuff, but unless you go up stuff then lift it down, it's going to fall over coming back down, so really, it doesn't make any difference.
Unfortunately, both those 3s LiPos I have are dud, so I'm switching back to 2s.
I also killed a spur in about 15 minutes on a run with a 2s last time out (no pictures from that outing) becuse although it's 48dp gearing and I ordered some RW 48dp pinions, the mesh never seemed happy and it didn't take long to prove it, so switching back to my stock 20t pinion on the 2s set up I've ran for months and for now, ending my quest for torque.

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I quickly tried with my 2S 5000mah battery in the front with a home made incline. Made no difference as tyres still can't grip.

Once my stock wheels get wet and each wheel increases from 120g to 230 it performs so much better so that is where I'm spending money on, metal beadlocks.

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Definitely and don't weight the wheels either, if you want a bit more weight low down, get some beef tubez for the axles, but avoid wheel weights... People think 'add more weight low down, it will help' and it just doesn't.
Rotational mass is hard on your electrics, it also throws everything out of balance because there's no way you'd get them on absolutely perfect.
I learned this from testing it myself after some of the veteran's of the hobby told me to take them out and it's true.

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Get some decent wheels, beef tubez, better tyres (although in reality, the stock Trepador is actualy a good all round tyre) a quality foam and you'll be in business.
Just remember it's important to know where all 4 tyres are at all times, most people think it's just the fronts so it doesn't get stuck, but the rear axle hangs just as low and gets caught just as much.
I tend to look at it from the front if I'm going over anything 'comp' style and it generally tends to give you the best view in comparison to looking from the back.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got some parts from RCMart for this, my new SSD titanium steering links, I went for the bent ones because it means I can move them higher finally and also back, this should give me a very noticable clearance increase.
 

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Clearance with the original links, they needed changing due to being beaten and a little bent too!

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New links, shiny! :P

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Also noticed on the last run I snapped one of the mounts of my front bumper, thankfully I did have another brand new one sat here, I decided to hack it up a little bit to make it a bit thinner and tucked in, so I had to re-locate the bumper lights to the middle instead of on the ends like it used to be.
I think I prefer it this way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, boredom and a bit of spare cash later and I find myself in the land of 2.2's.

Some Proline beadlocks rims with Proline Flat Irons, never used these tyres before but they aren't ridiculously tall for 2.2's which is what I wanted to avoid and at a bargain price so I thought why not.

Bit taller and wider than my 1.9 Rok Lox, but not stupidly big.

Nice looking tread pattern and they feel nice too.

Also decided to add a snorkel.

Hopefully I'll get to try the new tyres out soon, all being well.

 

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