baorevo Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Got my ninjaflex today the hesine prusa had no trouble printing it printed at 205°C and 50 bed temp at 26mm speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Great stuff the ninjaflex but not a lot of uses for it really lol https://youtu.be/0GQV79NndnI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 So, my readout says 350m, still printing on the original filament. Either i got a bonus roll of filament, or the counter is wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 I think it refers more to the length it has printed, IE, material extruded. I think mine was around 900 meters when I ran out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC4WD fan Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 On 26 November 2015 17:52:16, baorevo said: keep on printing !!!!!!!! sorry to hear you decided not to get another printer tamiya !!!! you sure ? your gonna miss it !!! latest print no support very cool but I'm not joking all the terminator films and zombi films even the comedy ones scare the crap out of me LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 4 hours ago, Vr5fx said: I think it refers more to the length it has printed, IE, material extruded. I think mine was around 900 meters when I ran out. Ahh okay, that makes more sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Maybe i will maybe i wont it depends on money i can save up and time frames. i want something with metal arms so they aint no sagging in a box so its easy to move around and well made ie fitted with true bearing carriers etc etc. ( to be honest i dont see any company wnating or willing to do this and still sell cheap) around 360-380 meter in a 1kilo roll of 1.75mm filament ( roughly that its) if the seller states 1kg make sure its one kg of product not 1kg inc the roll it comes on. if you find the seller says all inc the roll is 1kg your gonna loose around 200-250g for the weight of the roll so your filament weaght is then only 800-850g and not the 1000+g you expected. its a sneeky but used tactic you have to look out for. PET : you know what this plastic really is, go grab that veg oil bottle in your cupboard, thats PET plastic. Ninja flex : check those glove you wear for off roading, notice that flexi but stiff plastic pad and knuckles on gloves, that tends to be plastics like ninjaflex and likes. it has a flex but also impact proof to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 (edited) So since I tried the bushings, it's not been printing well at all. Some prints it will start printing in thin air, a few layers short of the bottom, and when it does print properly some layers near the bottom are skipped. This happens on all my prints. I'm going to order new bearings, and do a full re-build I think. Edited December 28, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 maybe a dirty hot end nozzle ( internal ) but if you swapped out to bushings and this didnt happen before, i would be just trying the old bearings again see if it clears up. if it does clear up its the bushings at fault. if not it could be the above nozzle needs cleaning out (take off nozzle and give it a bathe in acetone to get rid of all the crud thats gathered up) belt skip could be another. (as in a tooth worn on belt or grease on a pully wheel.) there is another thing that produces that type of look, poor filament thats contaminated with air - particulates - water. so look into if you have just started using a new filament brand or batch to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 1 minute ago, Tamiyacowboy said: maybe a dirty hot end nozzle ( internal ) but if you swapped out to bushings and this didnt happen before, i would be just trying the old bearings again see if it clears up. if it does clear up its the bushings at fault. if not it could be the above nozzle needs cleaning out (take off nozzle and give it a bathe in acetone to get rid of all the crud thats gathered up) belt skip could be another. (as in a tooth worn on belt or grease on a pully wheel.) there is another thing that produces that type of look, poor filament thats contaminated with air - particulates - water. so look into if you have just started using a new filament brand or batch to The bushings gave me lots of grief. So I swapped back to bearings. Well most of them are now bearings anyway. It would be something to do with the Z axis, which on the Prusa is screw driven, which is a motor on each side. I've printed off 3 cubes, which have all done the same now, on the same layers. The filament is good, I've had good prints in the past. So a rebuild for sure. Though, my old bearings should be okay, so I'll do a rebuild, clean out my bearings and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 ah yeah they the threaded rod and use nuts ? or they a screw rod with a brass screw guide bearing ? if its number 1 aka nut n thread rod, there is a fix for the jumping that can happen (backlash on the screw thread) its a printable section , you wind your first nut down then slide on a spring and screw on a second nut, to compress the spring a little. when this is fitted back in , instead of a single nut and the thread rod you have two nuts inside the new housing and a spring, the spring forces the nuts outwards putting pressure on them inside the new housing they give more stable guide for the thread rod to travel through and having two nuts and that spring helps to remove and take out an backlash. yes there will be a tiny bit but it removes most. link to the object : Prusa I3 z axis guide mod ( two nuts and spring mod) and heres a video of the unit.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5W2-83pPvM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I have a screw rod with the brass guide. I stripped it all down and rebuilt it, doing a few test runs at the moment, will see how it comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 (edited) Tried printing a lipo tray for one of my speed cars and ran out of filament near the end, only another 20mm or so in height missing as i need to support 2x4s LiPo's. Was always unsure if i had enough or not. The printer says it has done 430m, 100m more than would be on the 1kg roll. Going to just add up the weight of what i print now to keep an eye on it. Swapped over the filament now, running colourfabb blue, doing a cube now so will see what the outcome is! Overall though printer is running great, i done some holes with counter sunk on the inside of the lipo tray below, in the vertical walls and even that is pretty close to perfectly round. Edited December 30, 2015 by mayzie12 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Printer is back together and seems to be running alright. The quality isn't great, but I just need to iron out some issues again. I'm still getting better results from Cura than using Simplify3d.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) 4 hours ago, Vr5fx said: Printer is back together and seems to be running alright. The quality isn't great, but I just need to iron out some issues again. I'm still getting better results from Cura than using Simplify3d.... Sorry to see they gave you so much greif !!! i feel rotten having advised you to put the bushings in !!! im over the moon with mine .......... sorry about that . at the moment im getting the settings and adjustments right for the ninjaflex Edited December 29, 2015 by baorevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Just now, baorevo said: Sorry to see they gave you so much greif !!! i feel rotten having advised you to put the bushings in !!! im over the moon with mine .......... sorry about that . at the moment im getting the settings and adjustments right for the ninjaflex It's part of the fun, Also gave me the chance to put the new main board on, which is snug and running well. What have you managed to print so far with the Ninja flex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 4 minutes ago, Vr5fx said: It's part of the fun, Also gave me the chance to put the new main board on, which is snug and running well. What have you managed to print so far with the Ninja flex? i wanted to put the vidéo's on the page so it shows the screen and not the link but i dont know how now the forums changed lol ............ do you ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) 5 minutes ago, baorevo said: i wanted to put the vidéo's on the page so it shows the screen and not the link but i dont know how now the forums changed lol ............ do you ? Nope, It used to work, but not now I think Edited December 29, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Done a couple of 20mm cubes with the colourfabb filament. Had to adjust the bed height a little but ran good after 3 attempts. Visually it looks identical to the stuff i got with the printer but it is a lot stronger. Compressed a cube made of the original filament in a vice until it cracked, then done the same with the colourfabb cube. Was able to do another 1/4 turn on the vice before a cracking sound and on further inspection it still hadnt cracked! Then went to print the lipo tray that failed after running out of the original filament. All went well apart from it seemed to get starved of filament at one point so part isnt joined. think its because the spool doesnt seemed to be coiled perfectly, making it a bit too tough for the extruder to pull on it. Changed the location of the spool to to above it to see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 do you use a filament guide ? like this one i have and center hubs on the roll make it unwind smooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Its on the list now to do, i had the filament at the side which wasnt the best, its now above the extruder so should work better. Will need to print one of those things for inside a spool. What diamemters of cetres does that one you printed do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 This one is coming out great ............... just finishing up the tail !!!! lifesize alien face hugger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 thats frickin awesome , nice printin, my printer is winging its way to me as we speak woooooo cant wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) little tip. i had huge problems with that starvation banding, it was a major pain in the butt. i grabbed a simple skate bearing fillament roller, four rollerskate-skateboard bearings, two on a rail with little feet. your filament roll is free standing ontop of these two little rails and runs on those superfine bearings. add a filament hook up above the print surface head so it helps guide filament. TRUST ME, fit skate bearings to your rollers and you will have no probelms ever on the head dragging filaments from rolls. i was able to pull from a full kilo roll no problem. in fact i used to stand my filament roller ontop of a box behind the printer so it was roughly level as if sitting ontop of printer itself. DO NOT grease up the bearings, dont wash them in wd40 then use a fine oil, just leave them as they are, they free roll offer a tiny resistance and are packed full o grease to keep rubbish out and stop em drying out to quick. very simple design, remove the motor from an rc so it freewheels, filp it upside down and stand your filament ontop o wheels, adjust wheel base so the bearings and the rim o filament touch each other at around 10oclock, so if filament is pulled its not gonna roll of the bearings Edited January 3, 2016 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 keep the tips coming pal. i am going to need all the help i can when this kit arrives. I plummed for the kit so i will be contructing it, will take some time but i feel it will be worth it as i will known how it works and so on. Never really tried a project like this, quite daunting - any tips for the build? I have also ordered some filament so i can be getting to grips with it, and also some 3m blue tape for the heated bed. is there anything else i will need initial as i would hate to be waiting for things to arrive, if i could order it ready? many apologies for the noob questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.