Vr5fx Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Just now, mayzie12 said: Yes i took it off. Only sits very slightly above it, still gets very hot and seems to be working so far. The only issue is that you'll get a false temperature, the glass will be slightly cooler than the heat plate below, more so around the edges Not a massive issue, but you'll probably be better off with the aluminum plate in place, it would distribute the heat more evenly too. Might be worth putting it back on when you next have the bed off the printer. Saves re-leveling more than necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 yep a thin pcb heater pad will work better if it can sink that heat it produces into something that will hold that heat to. normally its a thin milled sheet of alloy plate , milled down to a perfect flatness. then we grab some KAPTON TAPE ( you guys need this stuff in your boxes all the time) and we cover the bottom of the alloy plate with it ( this stops the alloy creating a short in the system), we then bolt this alloy plate and the heatpad together (dont go crazy and squash plate overtightening the nuts and scews down) and fit it to the table deck. once inplace i would throw a layer of kapton tape over the alloy plates top, this is to stop it damaging your glass you then place ontop or you can print direct onto the kapton tape. removal from glass . most easy way is a drop in thermal balance take a stone top say marble or granite, lay the glass sheet onto it and leave, in short time you will start to hear popping noises , THIS SHOULD NOT BE THE GLASS BREAKING, if your glass shatters it was not borscillate glass. if your glass is the correct type it will cool down quickly and this cooling once to a certain temp the plastic will no longer bond with the glass so it pops free. Brim : is a very thin layer of plastic you break off around your piece, its used to hold the item down and help stop curling corners. Raft : is as it sounds, its a couple layers of a weave type look that raises the main item off the bed, its still heated and warmed by the bed but a raft is a stronger more beefy version of a Brim ( its a You will stick down and not curl thing) but rafts need removing and can be a right pain well - dam etc etc: this is usually an outer wall it acts like a dam keeping heat close to the item ie a more balanced temp in that area, like a mini heat sink one you guys may stumble into is whats called a purge wall, its used to clean out and prime dual extruders when printing two colors. problem is with purge walls comes a lot of collisions when a nozzle will hit the higher purge wall and cause a large fail in product. if you can try not to use purge walls unless your really struggling. As for bed, think of it this way, the longer it takes for the heated plates to cool the less time the heater is running and heating the bed. its winter now so you may find prints lift more easy, this does happen and its because the room is to cold , most will move the printer into a cubby hole or a purpose made box so to keep the printer area warm and free from any cold breeze/drafting. ( if you start having problems and you think its heat-cold try boxing the printer up to save that heat being wasted out. that also means less stress on your heater elements to and less power used as printer holds its own heat somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Glow in the dark filament! So cool. It's not brilliant quality stuff, but still cool. My camera picked it up much better than what it looks like. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Excellent !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Looks quite smart that filament. What filament is every using? Printed my first longer print today, each part around 4-5hrs, pinion holder for my Mod1 pinions. Already broke one peg doing the standard "Wonder how strong this is" Still going to do another for my 48dp pinions although this time on the lid i will just had 4 holes for it to clip together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 well looks like your operational mayzie12 !!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 its great to see you finally printing mazyie , long time coming to from the hassle you been through with seller but all looks good now and its just learning to tweek the settings and see how much the printer can be push quality over speed wise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 i just set up a raspberry pi with a cam to be a cam server (took me a week to work out how to do it as i needed port forwarding on my rooter) now i can follow my prints from anywhere on my mobile phone .......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Well its gone .... my printer has been returned and full refund returned , doubt i will get another just yet i feel the prevelance of chinese crap has put me off 3d printing and the price of other machines for what they are is just to much to part with ( flashforge and makerbot are in the 500-1000 quid slot bracket) . really really gutted as i did enjoy the 3d printer and printing things. i felt like a toymaker for like a few weeks, but it became for me just a repairman job, trying to fix an every wearing down printer. Now i have to find another past time to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavyleftthumb Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 sorry to hear this pal, i am hesitant to be ordering a cheaper 3d printer, maybe thinking of saving for a more expensive, better mate alternative. sad times pal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Getting it dialled in more and more. Quite impressed by the quality for the price after all the hassle. Its not great definition. but its okay for what i need. Edited November 23, 2015 by mayzie12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 48 minutes ago, mayzie12 said: Getting it dialled in more and more. Quite impressed by the quality for the price after all the hassle. Its not great definition. but its okay for what i need. Looking good bud! How is that idler holding up? There are many factors to getting a better definition, one of them is the program we use. Simplify3D yields better results than Cura, which I'm slowly trying out. But also the Prusa can print at 0.1mm layers. So more "3D" objects can be a little more refined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Idler is perfect! I printed a cube already with 0.1mm layer, as i have been doing 0.15mm so far. It is better but not sure if its better enough for the extra time yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 resolution comes from what way your print. lets take two objects, the rover badge, one print we will lay it flat and print it, you will see its got a nice crisp lineage to it and likes but its build up from the bottom the top is the infill area. if we flip this rover object so it stands on its end and print it our resolution now becomes that of the layer height, ie its the layers that give resolution. if we print this rover object standing up we lay layers, those layers are deformed out and inwards to create the image we want to see ie the rover insignia. so when its viewed beside the flat printed version its going to look even more crisp and defined. as a 3d printmaster its upto you to decide the best orentation to print the object for the resolution you require and the looks. so sometimes its a good idea to thionk just before you go and send that g-code to sd card or the printer, could you print the object a differnet way and gain more resolution and a more cleaner look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleysmith Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I finally got round to printing off another Buddha Vader, which turned out a lot better than the last, however I still have issues... The top of vaders head is domed but the printer doesn't seem to print fully on the head so I basically get a hole on top... Any ideas on how I fix this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 same with all the buddas buddy tends to be top of head and the top of the belly that get less cover. maybe change layer hieght just a tad, so if your printing at say 0.20mm try a 0.025mm . just so you guys know, if your using a .4 nozzle your maximum layer thickness is 0.32 max. its impossible for a 0.4 nozzle to give you a 0.50 layer height, you must remember thi. so with your .4 nozzles try keeping prints between a max layer height of 0.32, your minimum layer height can be as fine as 0.05mm but at this resolution it would take you years to print stuff but resolution would be mindblowing.. same with layer width, if you have a .40mm nozzle its impossible to get a 0.50mm wide width, your maximum width is that of the nozzle. your max layer height could be 0.40mm but thats going to affect bonding layers, so around 0.34 and 0.32 is your best area on max layer hight. max layer width can be that of the nozzle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 keep on printing !!!!!!!! sorry to hear you decided not to get another printer tamiya !!!! you sure ? your gonna miss it !!! latest print no support 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 As a bit off a test after hearing great things about them i have swapped out all the cheap bearings for SF-1 self lubricating bushings in these adapters http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:878675. The bushes are these http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-Wear-Resisting-SF-1-Self-Lubricating-Bearing-Bushing-8mm-x-10mm-x-12mm/32275233980.html?isOrigTitle=true&isOrig=true#extend . Worked wonders for the bearing noise !!!!! makes the machine a lot quieter and they will last considerably longer than the im8uu chinese bearings ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 (edited) On 27/11/2015, 20:04:29, baorevo said: As a bit off a test after hearing great things about them i have swapped out all the cheap bearings for SF-1 self lubricating bushings in these adapters http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:878675. The bushes are these http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-Wear-Resisting-SF-1-Self-Lubricating-Bearing-Bushing-8mm-x-10mm-x-12mm/32275233980.html?isOrigTitle=true&isOrig=true#extend . Worked wonders for the bearing noise !!!!! makes the machine a lot quieter and they will last considerably longer than the im8uu chinese bearings ... How many bushes are needed? Is it 2 per bearing? My bearings are really loud. Edited November 28, 2015 by Vr5fx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 (edited) 11 hours ago, Vr5fx said: How many bushes are needed? Is it 2 per bearing? My bearings are really loud. Yes 2 bushes per bearing so 2 packs are enough The result is incredible lol no more bearing noise so the fan and motors sound loud hehe Edited November 29, 2015 by baorevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Maybe after christmas a new printer, but at the mo anything chinese is not my friend , all other i looked at are chinese copy. flashforge and makerbot are a bit outta my league money wise, i cannot justify the cost when china makes the exact same thing twice as cheap its pig headed greed again for our cash as consumers. josef prusa models again are beyond my money means , but also beyond my space requirement for the printer. ( think chair side table and you got the space i have for a printer. my old one fitted this table perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hope you do get another Tami. I ordered some of those bushes, as well as a new control board. I bought a smashed up RC off here a few days back, printing some parts for it to try and get it road worthy again. Woo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baorevo Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 16 hours ago, Vr5fx said: Hope you do get another Tami. I ordered some of those bushes, as well as a new control board. I bought a smashed up RC off here a few days back, printing some parts for it to try and get it road worthy again. Woo. what controll board are you getting ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vr5fx Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 1 hour ago, baorevo said: what controll board are you getting ? Same as the one I have. A few weeks back I pulled a wire off the board and took the pad with it. Bodged it at the moment but I'd rather have the spare come the day it wont work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayzie12 Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Longest print so far at 14 hrs. The main box you see is one peice with the "L" shaped parts that hold in the charger as two other prints, total of around 16-17hrs. Was a bit weird trying to sleep with it going in the background Will be a case for my charger with all the balance leads and power setup to to two batteries at once. Also ordered some colorfabb filament. just waiting for the cheapo hobbyking stuff to come back into stock in the UK so i can see if paying the extra is really worth it 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.