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SkyRC Toro Beast large scale brushless controller


53HRA

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True re: the revs. I thought after I posted it, that the maximum limit is obviously a free one. Taking into account losses in the drivetrain, the surface friction, etc, revs are always going to be lower aren't they.

 

Here are links to the latest runs

 

http://youtu.be/MJHEjY0yNHU

 

http://youtu.be/2AduQSDMqJY

lookin good

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Thanks Tug, and cheers all :thumbsup:

 

Noj and Tug, As 'leccy users, I was interested to get your view on the voltage dips; I'll post a thread in the Electric forum anyway, where it probably belongs.

 

Re: the cell counting. That's a strange thing. This ESC doesn't beep/count on startup.. The user guide doesn't explicitly state it does usually.. it might be because the low voltage cutoff is set manually (I'm pretty sure that's the only reason the ESC cares about the voltage?). There is an auto low-voltage option, so I'll try setting this and see what effect it has..

Edited by darrenelmslie
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My XL2 suffered approximately 3 volts of drop without the cap-pack, but only 0.3 with. I think that's self explanatory. ;)

I've had a go with a Turnigy version of this ESC and it was shocking! The least of its troubles being it couldn't communicate with the pit-card. The worst being it could count four or five cells, but a six cell was counted as five, a seven cell was counted as six and an eight cell was counted as seven! I gave up and sent it back!

Your genuine Skyrc unit might be better. Just monitor voltages while you're going through the testing phase! I never trust an LVC on a new ESC, not even from a big name!

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The mgm, having manual cell number setting, never beeped cell count either, as the ESC hasn't vented and you've not reported any cell problems, that suggests all is well.

I had the same, 0.3v drop with cap packs fitted to our pair, had the packs installed before first use and compared the data with Tug. Two years on and both xl2's are fine so nothing to worry about, IMO of course ;)

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Thanks both, Yep, I'm wary of the cut-off. I'm cutting the runs short at the moment, so that I've got some confidence the unloaded pack voltage is only ever down to about half-used.

 

I thought I'd read from some Castle post way back, that you should aim for a setup that results in a ripple voltage at less than 10% of the pack voltage.  Do you only ever expect to see it on acceleration?

 

It's the fact that I'm getting the 3v drop WITH the cap pack that I can't understand. It's only for 0.1 or 0.2 seconds but it's consistent.

 

It's easy to get wrapped up in the numbers instead of enjoying it I know, I just like to understand why stuff's happening :)

 

One day, I'm hoping to try something like an MGM 25063. The MGM hardware has always been legendary..

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I've had a most unreliable 25063 v1, which has cost more than I'm now prepared to pay for in postage costs for repairs (the repairs cost very little, as does the return postage??), of course a three week turnaround every few runs does get tiresome...

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Tug: ;)

Both: man! I'd no idea MGM could be as troublesome as that. I hadn't reckoned on them being completely bulletproof but had reckoned issues were a bit fewer and further between :eek: Just goes to show nothing's immune in these installations. I suspect the backup and usability are well worth the extra they cost though..

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Don't get me wrong, I'd have another in a heartbeat. My first MGM was bought back in approximately '08 or '09, still is use today!

High end electronics can have their gremlins too, you'd think they wouldn't, but they do. Such is life.

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Bez uses MGM gear without issue, there are (probably) many others who do too in 5ives, but, I would ask them (not Bez) this: bashing or speed running?

I hammered the 5ive, grabbed much air and had some big spills and rolls, with an ESC mounted pretty much on the chassis...could this have had any influence on the last failure (as in, the last time I ran it before discovering it wouldn't turn on some months later)?

Regardless, alien power for it for the next try, see if that survives Nojbashing, lol!

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True dat Tug!

Noj: this is just for bashing. I've a lot of time for Bez, his service s are excellent and he clearly knows his stuff.

I'll watch any forays with the Alien with interest. Naymo on the Baja forums tried one on a badger without much luck. They're blooming big beasts aren't they?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Nice presentation mate.

Need to change the closing comments - you're as bad as me on those damned answering machines!!

 

Runs well.

Not much grip there and I see the tyres are wearing down a little.

Impressed how you resisted the first thing I normally do - get the donuts going!!

Could have done a couple of burnouts I reckon!!

 

That's me showing my shoe-size, not age I suppose!

 

Nice job Tug.

Al.

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Nice presentation mate.

Need to change the closing comments - you're as bad as me on those damned answering machines!!

Runs well.

Not much grip there and I see the tyres are wearing down a little.

Impressed how you resisted the first thing I normally do - get the donuts going!!

Could have done a couple of burnouts I reckon!!

That's me showing my shoe-size, not age I suppose!

Nice job Tug.

Al.

Cheers, appreciated.

She's actually quite planted at the mo, possibly due to the tyres being virtually slicks!

To keep on topic, I'd definitely rate this over the Skyrc ESC. I briefly owned the Trackstar version, never again!

Having tweaked the settings AND switched off reverse, the Alien is driving quite nicely. I'll shoot a second vid soon showing how much better it is with reverse off. The throttle is nice, the brakes are nice (with reverse off!), the LVC seems OK. Probably needs a cap-pack, I'll sort that soon.

Now back to topic!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I can't comment on those ESCs personally but I'm sure a few must've used them.

It might be worth asking the question in the electrics forum as i suppose not everybody reads this. I take it you've tried Googling it to see if anyone mentions it in a blog or another forum?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I haven't had too much time to run the car a huge amount, I'm building up a second car and looking at producing a mk1 Escort shell for the Baja at the moment.

I have put another 3 packs through it though and it's still going well; that's 5 packs through what was already a well-used and abused unit when I got it.

I'm testing my ThunderPower packs against Gens Ace and Turnigy A-specs at the moment, also swapping between the old and new ESC to compare them both and looking at the logging from the runs

Two things I would like to do is to strap the phone to the car to get an idea of speeds and to get an Eagle Tree logger fitted to add to what's already being recorded and give me some confidence that it's accurate.

Something in the programming software caught my attention tonight; motor operation can be set to:

Forward/brake

Forward/brake/reverse

Forward/reverse

That last entry is intriguing; is it just me or does that seem to imply you might be able to set up a mechanical brake? I can't see why you'd ever want to go directly from forwards to reverse otherwise, unless perhaps it was in a boat.

Given you can adjust the dead band on the throttle in the software too, I wondered if you could do some clever mixing on a TX to allow a brake servo to work in the dead band?

if so, that'd take some stress out of the system which could only be a good thing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by darrenelmslie
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Something in the programming software caught my attention tonight; motor operation can be set to:

Forward/brake

Forward/brake/reverse

Forward/reverse

That last entry is intriguing; is it just me or does that seem to imply you might be able to set up a mechanical brake? I can't see why you'd ever want to go directly from forwards to reverse otherwise, unless perhaps it was in a boat.

Given you can adjust the dead band on the throttle in the software too, I wondered if you could do some clever mixing on a TX to allow a brake servo to work in the dead band?

if so, that'd take some stress out of the system which could only be a good thing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

according to my trackstar manual

 

forward/brake is just that, pull trigger to drive push it back for the brake - good for mechanical brake)

 

forward/brake/reverse does reverse or forward with out delay, so from moving forward when you push the trigger back it will brake then go into reverse once the motor stops spinning, same with going forward.

 

i don't have the last one you have but presumeably it what trackstar call "reverse lockout", works like the above but once you put the brakes on you have to return the trigger to neutrl and then push it back to go into reverse.

 

 

 

 

 

to run the mechanical brake you would have to use the forward/brake option, as you won't be able to disable the servo and reversing will also put the brakes on.

 

you could then lower the braking force and let the motor and mechanical brakes work together or disable the motor braking completely have all braking via the mechanical stuff.

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I haven't had too much time to run the car a huge amount, I'm building up a second car and looking at producing a mk1 Escort shell for the Baja at the moment.

I have put another 3 packs through it though and it's still going well; that's 5 packs through what was already a well-used and abused unit when I got it.

I'm testing my ThunderPower packs against Gens Ace and Turnigy A-specs at the moment, also swapping between the old and new ESC to compare them both and looking at the logging from the runs

Two things I would like to do is to strap the phone to the car to get an idea of speeds and to get an Eagle Tree logger fitted to add to what's already being recorded and give me some confidence that it's accurate.

Something in the programming software caught my attention tonight; motor operation can be set to:

Forward/brake

Forward/brake/reverse

Forward/reverse

That last entry is intriguing; is it just me or does that seem to imply you might be able to set up a mechanical brake? I can't see why you'd ever want to go directly from forwards to reverse otherwise, unless perhaps it was in a boat.

Given you can adjust the dead band on the throttle in the software too, I wondered if you could do some clever mixing on a TX to allow a brake servo to work in the dead band?

if so, that'd take some stress out of the system which could only be a good thing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'm very interested in you comment about the escort MK1 shell.  I want to make a Losi 5iveT rally car and would love a MK1 escort body...  Let me know how you get on and if you are or will be making more than one?  If you do, I would be VERY interested.

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