NITO Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I thought that was what the crate was for! Nice touch, looking forward to how this progresses. I can't see me starting my shell for a while yet. Need to practice on some others first I think as this is fairly new territory for me. I've not used water based paint on an ABS shell before, then there's lacquer that will need to go on top. Can lacquer be used over decals too?? I'm planning to try a guinea pig mad bull shell first to try these things out before messing up the Bruiser! I have a couple of ideas of what I'd like to do with the shell and what extras I'm planning for it and lights and the like but it'll take time, I have a bit of a learning curve ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 I have decided to use spray cans as Iam more at home with them,not sure about the lacquer yet will see how it pans out,I also have the Tamiya light system (just the 4 lights) so will swop these for the Axial NVA system in my Sawback reason being have the orange indicators,like you say its defo not a rush job,good luck with practice paint jobs get some pics up of your progress , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Have not glued the tyres yet,do I use foams/weights or leave them as they are with just the bare tyre.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I would personally leave the weights out of the wheels mate, foams could be a good call though, how hard are the tyres? If there hard and hold up the weight of the truck ok then maybe not needed but your call mate. What paint are you using? If it's Tamiya paint it has a shiny coat in it already but if you use auto paint, use auto lacquer, don't mix hobby paint with auto lacquer etc. it can react...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) Tyres I would say are soft to medium so going to run with just the tyre for now,paintwise Iam ging for this,52 Baltic Blue Metallic (Humbrol) Edited January 5, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I'll be using Createx Auto Air water based paint over a churchill's adhesion promoter through an airbrush and Churchill's 1K automotive clear coat solvent based lacquer. That's the plan, no idea how it'll work out in practice. The Auto Air is a sparkelescent paint. I think its a bit ambitious but hey, aim for the stars and all that! In an ideal world I'd like to paint, lacquer, detail and decals, then re-lacquer! Ignorance is bliss!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 That sounds like a lot of number crunching to me thought about the airbrush, think I will leave that to you, shall be keeping an eye on your progress,good on you to give it a go though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Lol, thanks, you'll probably get a better finish with rattle cans!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) First test on gearbox,bit of tweeking here and there needed I have used the Carson Relex TX but I prefer the Futaba 4YF I have one for my tank so me thinks I will order a new one for this build.. Edited January 8, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I didn't watch that with sound but I notice you're stopping the motor to change gear. From my playing with the gearbox/gears before they were inserted in the box, it appears that they are designed to mesh together, they require the main shaft to rotate so that they can slide along when they align. The servo horn has sufficient give so that they won't force the gears into each other with a big crunch, it lazily waits until they align then shifts. I've been running up my gears with the motor going forward and backward. I'll put a video up at some point too so we can see if they are functioning similarly. As long as you set the shift rod adjustment with servo in neutral and the temporary inserts installed (I had to adjust the rod a fair bit over the manual length) then it should be fine. I had to adjust the EPA's a fair bit though on high 2wd and low 4wd positions, down to 80 or 60% I'll have to check it up when I get home, otherwise the servo will be continually drawing power. You've probably done all that anyway, just some observations from my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Have a shift gate on my TX,so I have to drop the revs to change gear just makes it a tad more real lol yours must be an automatic if they have the revs there going to cange the servo later on from a HPI Edited January 8, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Oh of course! I didn't think of that! Which servo are you changing, the gearshift one? With the amount of give on the servo saver I don't think it needs anything too fancy imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Have ordered this lot,so will be changing the electrics Futaba T4YF 2.4GHz Edited January 8, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I'm using that servo for the steering, for the gearshift I'm running the Futaba S3003 less than a tenner I think, works super smooth. The S9405 is a nice unit though for the steering. Are you buying through Steve Webb models, seems to have some good prices there. I'm thinking of purchasing another Futaba 617 7ch 2.4 rx, to run off my FF7, He has them for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) The ESC is from this guy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351018791345?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 The TX from here http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/261415/Futaba-Hendheld-RC-24-GHz-No-of-channels-4 The Axial NVS system as all that included, but the side indicators dont work with the specky setup on the jeep so hence the move to the Bruiser,I have this one as well which I will stick in the jeep Tamiya LED Light Unit TLU-01; Edited January 8, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Iirc tamiya produced a mfu for the bruiser....seen a video and I think it does add something...won't be cheap tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Me too, with speakers and V8 engine sounds and stuff. Not sure that's my bag. That Axial controller is nice and neat, guess it requires a couple of Y leads too. Wonder if the FF7 allows throttle channel mixing to enable seperate reverse lights!? Hmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Now you see it,now you dont. Edited January 9, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Yes, liking it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Ooooh...magic! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I thought about buying a Bruiser but was worried that I wouldn't use it if I did so I bought a SCX10 instead 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Chopped the crate down a bit 3/4".better me thinks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Now we have a reference of the scale of it now against the sleeper cab, looks fine, probably would do either way. Look forward to seeing the markings of what that box is carrying lol! I have a different take in mind for the rear, but can't afford it at the moment!! How will you fix that down, velcro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 It's really got to be a crate full of vintage tamiyas..... Just to tie into the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 That's funny Gaz, that is exactly what I was thinking! TAMIYA written in black crate like writing, and maybe the blue/red star logo on there and some reference to contents or something, like kit no. and qty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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