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Zombi's Axial Yeti


Zombi

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Some folks have asked me why VP and other wheel manufacturers warn against using the Swamper XL tyres when they clearly work because I have them installed on mine.  Here's the warning on the Vanquish site:

 

VP 2.2 Method 105

 

>  ****These wheels are not easily compatible with Pro-Line TSL SX Super Swamper XL 2.2" 

 

Well the clue is in their warning "...not easily compatible...", and that basically means you're going to struggle to put them on, but it's not impossible.  The reason they're tough to mount is because unlike the Voodoo and other similar tyres, they don't have that specially shaped lip on the bead which the rims can fit around so nicely. So when you try and screw the inner and outer rims together across the aluminium can, there's now a thick layer of rubber that you have to compress in order for the screw to reach.

 

Trying to hold the wheels and tyre with sufficient pressure with one hand whilst using a hex driver to screw them together in the other hand is nigh-on impossible. Even with trying to use my foot to press down on them failed miserably. So I turned to my trusty electric screwdriver!

 

R4SD3-L13Cx600.jpg

 

Using that I was able to maintain constant force on the screw and rims as i didn't need to twist my wrist to start the screw biting.  I put 3 of them in on opposites sides only a small way into the threads to hold it all in place and the rest were easily done.

Edited by Zombi
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Thanks dude  :thumbsup:

 

I'm just hoping that on Sunday I wont end up losing the bead. Folks have said it should be all good, but i'll be taking my voodoos along with me in case I run into bother.

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Check out the latest offering from Banners; 1.250 inch cans just like Carter Fab in the USA used to make!  These are really hard to get hold of, so brilliant work, Banners!

 

Here's the blurb from Carter's website

 

Quote
These are replacement cans for the Vanquish Products Scale 2.2  wheel line. The VP wheels are advertised as 1? wheels but are actually using a .750? can where the bead seats. Our cans make them a true 1.250? wheel and offer better tire performance and allows easier mounting when using the highly regarded Crawler InNovations line of foams. The 1.250? cans are ideal for the PitBull RockBeast tires and other wider footprint tires. These completely change the performance over the narrow wheel.

 

 

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Edited by Zombi
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Don't know if this would work with the methods as I've never done a set but to get other beadlocks started I put in a couple of longer bolts to get them held together without all the juggling then stock hardware into the remaining holes before taking the longer bolts out to put the stock ones in.

Only need two or three longer bolts as you reuse them on each wheel :)

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Yep that'd work, and I wanted to do that also as it'd have been less forceful than what I did above, sadly though the screws that you need for the Methods are imperial, and all I have are the ones that came with the kits. I checked out eBay and they do have some longer screws there should I ever need to go that route.

 

1 inch length would probably be just the job for it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190959349109?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=490209155306&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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I wish I could say something negative about this thread

I think you can Jony, the stock axial yeti.

Following this thread with interest, seems that as with most axial products, you have to spend mega bucks to make the damned thing even basically reliable.

Not knocking Zombi's build at all, it is now a very sorted rig and performs well. :) Saved me a fortune not buying one too! ;)

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After last weekend's mud bathing I thought it prudent to open up the RX8 to see if it needed a clean... and boy it did. Cleaned it all out with IPA then re-did the CorrosionX treatment.

 

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Edited by Zombi
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Oh right. Well Banners tried that joke on me last week is all, once bitten and all that.  But yes as per the above, IPA is excellent for cleaning electronics as I'm sure you know.

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Oh right. Well Banners tried that joke on me last week is all, once bitten and all that.  But yes as per the above, IPA is excellent for cleaning electronics as I'm sure you know.

Ah, shame on Banners lol

 

 

Nah, I didn't know that, but I do now  :thumbsup:

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I had to send back a Mamba Max Pro for a mate of mine because he broke it in a crash, but he'd used CorrosionX on it for waterproofing, which means it voided the warranty. After I gave it a good cleaning in IPA though it removed all trace of the stuff and was as good as new. Needless to say, the MMP got replaced  :yes:

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I think you can Jony, the stock axial yeti.

Following this thread with interest, seems that as with most axial products, you have to spend mega bucks to make the damned thing even basically reliable.

Not knocking Zombi's build at all, it is now a very sorted rig and performs well. :) Saved me a fortune not buying one too! ;)

It has been said on many reviews the stock setup works well for a 2s setup. When you start running high power high torque setups things start to fail. But even if they don't fail you can gain great improvements in performance from hop ups but that does not mean the stock parts will not work Edited by philbr
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It has been said on many reviews the stock setup works well for a 2s setup. When you start running high power high torque setups things start to fail. But even if they don't fail you can gain great improvements in performance from hop ups but that does not mean the stock parts will not work

 

Aye, love jokes aside, once you've done the vital upgrades (hubs, wheels, tyres) then the rest is fine for some time. It does of course depend on how much you're abusing it though. Sane drivers will naturally have longer out of their stock gear, the nutters won't.

 

Once the running gear is sorted, the high-wear parts are the ones to go, and for me these are:

 

- Rear Wild boar drive shaft (it'll twist, but you do get spares in the parts bag to be fair)

- Rear trailing arms (they buckle)

- Servo (too weak and despite being advertised as "all metal gears", it's a lie. Open it up and see!)

 

And these days with the advent of all the GPM gear, the above can be replaced at a very reasonable price.  So you won't need to spend $40 + shipping on a MIP drive shaft, get the GPM for 10 quid +

Edited by Zombi
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I know OF someone running one (from the Yeti FB page), and I also ShaunM here is running one.  Read this from the Yeti Owners thread.  From personal experience with GPM stuff I can be quite positive, the gear seems decent. Admittedly I haven't had the chance to hammer parts like the shaft or trailing arms myself but others seems confident.

 

I've seen comments on the FB page from some experienced racers like Matt Ottman (guy who makes the voodoo tyres) speak highly of the stuff. In fact he really rated the GPM universal axles and the front bulkhead after giving them a good battering.  If it's good enough for someone as into the scene as he, then it'll do us mere mortals.

 

It'll be good to hear some feedback on the rear shaft from ShaunM though.  HINT!  :thumbsup:

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Do you know anyone who is successfully running the GPM shaft? My experience of cheap upgrade driveshafts from China isn't good but I live in hope! :)

Yes me. But I have not had a lot of run time with it so I will have to let you know but it has been good so far

Edited by philbr
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Steering tuned after I put the servo saver lockout back in, and after a spin around the block I'm ready for tomorrow - just got to charge the batteries up. Thank god I have a 16amp badboy to charge my 5 5000mah's!!

 

Must say that I'm loving the look of these tyres on my Yeti, they're proper monstrous. Fingers crossed for a good performance tomorrow.

 

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Edited by Zombi
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Yes me. But I have not had a lot of run time with it so I will have to let you know but it has been good so far

Well they've passed the first test if it bolted up OK and didn't immediately disintegrate first run so better than some :)

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