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Zombi's Axial Yeti


Zombi

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Next, the Vanquish Differential Locker.  To be fair, although various other Yeti owners have blown their stock Axial lockers, mine's lasted me since September.  But with that said I've mainly done crawling, so high-speed stress hasn't been a factor too often. Now though with this, I don't need to worry about any of that. This thing gets rave reviews, and I've had my eye on one for a while now.

 

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Edited by Zombi
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At the moment I have HD gears in both front and rear, but the rear is underdrive whilst the front is stock ratio.  The rationale there being that when I had stock electronics, I needed more torque for crawling.  So whilst the rear had more push being undergeared, the faster ratio on the front would pull, thus allowing me to get over obstacles a bit better.  

 

I thought I'd pick up a stock ratio Axial 38/13T Bevel Gear Set (so expensive here in the UK!) though to set it back to stock gearing and see what difference it makes, if any.  Now that I have my Tekin electronics, I'm less in need of torque from other areas of the truck.  

 

Mat, from our GOWTT group, insists on racing his 4S Wraith against me.  To be fair it's pretty damned quick, so a bit more top-end from the Alpha Gorilla will continue to help me stave off his challenges!  :thumbsup:

 

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Edited by Zombi
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And lastly of course, what we've all been waiting for - the Vanquish Centred Pumpkin Currie Axle.  What a piece of kit, these picture do it no justice, it really is incredibly well made. 

 

These are the Chromium-Molybdenum (Chromoly) shafts that come with the kit. Hopefully the chances of me bending one of these is minimal.  The material is super-strong steel used in the construction industry and very expensive cycles.

 

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Aluminium bearing clips, nice, better than the stock plastic.

 

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Lower link mounts. I'm hoping that my red Vanquish ones will fit, but I guess we'll see about that soon enough.

 

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And of course the diff housing and cover.  The detail it on it amazing, the brace (below) even has weld lines on. Nice touches from VP.

 

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Lastly the shafts with built in lockouts.

 

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I'll start building tomorrow night and will be getting some more pics as I got along. Stay tuned!

Edited by Zombi
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So tonight saw the building of the Currie, very enjoyable with only two small hiccups (and not on my part).  This is going to be pretty picture intensive, so bear with...

 

Some instructions to get us warmed up then. Clear and straight forward enough with only a couple of typos (I can't help being grammar police). 

 

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Had to remove the ring gear in the current housing as I needed the screws to fasten the locker onto the new ring gear.

 

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The new VP locker attached the ring gear.  A very snug fit and went together really well.

 

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Getting installed into the housing.  The observant amongst you will notice that the ring gear is mirror-flipped compared to the stock Yeti setup. This of course means that you need to also flip over the front gear in the diff housing.  If you don't do this, you'll get wheels going in the opposite direction and it'll cause you some serious woes. Believe it or not, people have actually left this step out by mistake!

 

And then of course, once all flipped, you'll need to reverse motor direction in the ESC. Easily done.

 

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Bearing clips attached

 

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Next was the tricky part, unless you have circlip pliers!  I've seen a lot of folks struggle with fitting the e-clip into the housing because they tried to use normal pliers, so last week I went to the local army surplus shop and picked a set up for only a few quid.

 

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Slap some marine grease on that badger.


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Bolt it up


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And there we are, all done!


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Edited by Zombi
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So I spoke to Dan W from VP and asked him to confirm the orientation of the lower link mounts, and the diagram is actually correct, so I'll need to flip those later.

 

I'll update the above so it doesn't confuse anyone wishing to use this as a guide in the future.

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Does it really matter what way round they go? On the Wraith we flip them to lower ride and in my case I flip them so I can run longer shocks without jacking up the truck too much

Edited by .AJ.
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Does it really matter what way round they go? On the Wraith we flip them to lower ride and in my case I flip them so I can run longer shocks without jacking up the truck too much

lol never though about that but dosent that put the lower links lower and then losing ground clearance 

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Seemingly so, the axle won't be oriented correctly and the rear arms and titanium links wont reach properly. You also have to change the rod ends on the ti links to longer Jato rods so it all fits properly. Oh, and stock plastic links aren't compatible.

 

I'll do some pics etc later when i switch them out.

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These are the Jato rod ends that VP say to install onto the suspension links. 

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: I got it confirmed from VP today that you're only supposed to use a Jato rod end on one end of the link, the other end should be the Traxxas Revo #5347 rod end.

 

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As you can see, the ti links have one section longer than the other.  In case this is useful to anyone planning on getting the links, I connected the short end to the chassis and the long end at the axle.  I'm told by the VP guys it makes no difference which way around you put them on, but they prefer the aforementioned. So if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.

 

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And fully mounted up with the wheels on. So much BEEF it'd feed a family of 5 for a week!

 

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Edited by Zombi
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It does. I meant to get a picture of it but it slipped my mind. It's a fairly narrow strip that fastens to the underneath of the pumpkin called the "Jock Strap" (because the pumpkin is called the "Rock Jock").  I wonder if it's justa bit TOO narrow though, but there's only one way to find out...

 

Here's a stock pictue of it.

 

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