GPV-1

[Tamiyacowboy]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So last picture you can see where the fixing bolts have ripped through the fibre side plates,

there was at one time 6 single mount holes, now it is just two long slots.

 

the above pictures show the fracture point and the very bad method of a fix. yeah just fill it with glue that works... NOT !!!

you can see two images where i have carfully trimmed out a thin .3mm sheet of alloy and profiled it around the fracture point and end knuckle piviot.

a scew top and bottom should hold it in place somewhat until i can find something better.

 

That little triange of plastic used as the headstock is the weak part, and the most likely to break as you can see.

 

i dont want to get an offroad bike because i really cannot trust anderson and likes to just stop making them and end up in the same boat now but later down the line.

it also means forking out for a whole new chassis, rear wheel unit because i do not want to run gyros, just weighted wheels. and a race bike will be more profiled for speed

with a lower cog and better rake angle adjustment and wheelbase roll out, its why i went 1/8th, smaller bike means its going to take less to push it too high speeds

less drag being small and better weight to power ratio. race bikes also have the added option of longer gearing and you loose less power converting some drive into gyroscopic rotation.

[Syncro]

The smaller scale also means less stability.

Mines running a 5000kv brushless and it can be a hand full.

At speed the slightest bump can send it into a tank slapper.

[mydoddy69]

Tami my old mate don't know if you have ever heard of this stuff but it will fill them holes no trouble and then allow you to re drill them no trouble what so ever.. Its as light as plastic and as strong as steel it truly is amazing stuff its so hard once it sets you can grind it, file it, drill it even tap the stuff.. 

 

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Abro-Steel-QuickSteel-reinforced-metal-repair-putty-weld-57g-/281331483700?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item4180a9c434

[Tamiyacowboy]

found an enginering company just round the corner from me and they have cnc cutter , milling machines, drill presses etc etc.

they make bespoke items for racecars etc etc and other companys.

 

gonna pop an see them monday with the bikes front end, see if i can have a cheap'ish ( i willing to spend 35-40gbp) prototype made up.

for the front headstock block in alloy and or delrin or something alike. quick and dirty for testing.

 

then get priced up for say 5 high spec alloy headstock parts. i cant see me hammering 5 well made headstocks

from fine grade alloy in one run.

 

Edit : 

 

well drawn out a nice little headstock with a spring loaded crashback system built in, a hard hit would see the headstock

piviot and compress a spring helping take the impact shock away.

Edited July 13, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy

[Syncro]

Like the idea of a crash back.

The set up used on the Kyosho HOR was quite clever.

Edited July 13, 2014 by Syncro

[mydoddy69]

If you can find a machine shop to mill out something like that, that cheap let me know there details please .. The ones round here want silly money to mill out anything

[Tamiyacowboy]

Yep will keep fingers crossed they can do it fairly cheap'ish. 

 

i was thinking its something the could let an apprentice work on,

get used to toolings, speeds and ramping up and down. 

 

If all else fails i will have to go hungry for a couple months and 

try get my hands on a cnc miller, put my only exam qual to good use

and design and cut my own headstocks and parts. 

 

got my eyes on a front alloy hub and a rear alloy hub by ZH racing ,

would be nice to be able to gear up and down via the rear sprocket/front sprocket tooth sizing

as well as the main spur /pinion layshaft

[mydoddy69]

Did you give that stuff i linked you to any more thought ? perhaps you could make a mould from what you got and re make a new front end or like i said repair what you got .. 

 

I can't help but think this is going to be one of your never quite ending build projects   

 

Only pulling your chain fella i think your going to need a lot of patience, time and money to get this to where your hoping so i little light hearted banter is needed to keep your spirits up   

[Alex97]

There's a guy on here that has a CNC who might do it for you.

[Tamiyacowboy]

yeah i dont have anything in Gcode for him.

 

i have a real life object but it needs converting into a digital framework the cnc cutter understands

otherwise i have to learn digital technical drawing , its not like the old days schematic blueprints with measurements

everything ramped up a gear since i left school lol.

 

maybe able to hardcraft an M5 motorcrosser headstock, will leave a 58 degree/60 degree perma rake

and require a homebrew crashback spring fitting

[Tamiyacowboy]

So a little work. 

 

spent a few mins working out some kind of front body cowl clip.

used an old side rail from a tamiya pumpkin chassis, to make a new thicker body standoff.

just need to drill a few holes and find some body clips. 

 

the skid rails used two very large plug like adapters that held a plastic bar. 

i am going to use two out of the four skid rail holders and pop in a couple tube rails

scrounged from the pumpkin chassis to hold the front cowl at the sides and clear of spur/pinion.

 

going to find some thin alloy tube and fill it with sand, this way when it bend it wont kink as much.

on the end i will ream it and glue in a nut, to finish of a metal bearing wiill sit ontop with a small allen both holding it in place

as a rolling slider.

 

The last owner spray painted over the top of the body work, so i spent the after noon softening the old paint with

tamiya 81040 thinner, just wiped on the using a craft knife to scrape,slice of the paint.  need to grab some fairy oven cleaner spray

have seen people use this on miniture models to remove paint so maybe it will remove the original mica green stuff and black.

so i can replace with something better, if not i need new bodywork later on.

 

just hope that stanbridges hobbies pulls through and i do get the two headstocks i ordered.

only need to grab a 2s - 3s lipo and a servo, been looking at the MG81 but i cannot justify

[whitham69]

Tamiya, I'll do you a favour and tell you stop spending money on batterys and chassie servos ect....  JB hit the nail on the head.  Wheels and tyres will fail buddy.  Starting point for any speed record is tyres that can handle the speed. All the tyres  off the shelf will fail buddy,  you need custom tyres that wont expand and hit the swing arm and delaminate at speed.

 

it why no one gone above 93mph with an RC bike.   record is held by an American called lito who was the editor of RCCA

[Tamiyacowboy]

if it get to 93mph thats fine..... 

 

ok the rossa record is held NOT by a superbike but a DRAG bike.

i would say the rossa record is just drag bikes, and hence not very many hits on the record.

 

i have a Superbike aka sports bike , theres a difference, its like calling a quad bike a pennyfathing.

i want to get the bike up and running, learn how to control it at high speed, work out the problems.

then step up .

 

i would like to get on that rossa list for a sportbike/superbike record, ie only a high powered motor and battery.

and a standard chassis.

no super extended chassis and long trailbar, no lonerider shallow rake style rat/drag bike.

just your everyday RC race style super/sports bike. 

 

few images of what i think would have maybe taken that record

 

 

 

 

Edited July 15, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy

[Tamiyacowboy]

finished the priming coats , used a white acrylic , as the 2005 ZX-RR has white flashing panels with the mica green

and black belly pan 

 

 

 

 

Now the rear wheel hugger aka mud guard its in black, i was thinking of following either the white flash

through to the rear hugger and have that white, or i go mica green (kwaka race green). same with the front hugger

white - black or mica green ? 

 

i just cant decide

[Syncro]

Looking good mate.

You may regret using acrylic paint on the lexan bodywork though.

Flakes off very easily.

[Tamiyacowboy]

its the stuff i used on the jetboat build. its a acrylic polycarb paint

it etches the top layer so it can take a grip. 

 

i want to find a couple clear bodys, but nowt much was made for the venom stuff that side.

so its more trying to find a 1/9 - 1/8th tamiya/ital model and using the hard plastic cowling/fairings.

 

i like the bike lots, so much so my history just states " nouva faor " rc superbike " rc sports bike " custom build rc bike " yadda yadda.

also included is the obligitory " how to make a homemade cnc milling machine cheap 

 

i want to make my own bits at some point, bigger motor mount for larger motors.

a lipo saddle so its more protected and held via clips not velcro. and stops to keep the battery from 

sliding fore/back and rubbing wheel.

Edited July 17, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy

[Syncro]

The clear gpv1 bodies are available on the bay

But, have you thought about trying the body sets from the Kyosho HOR (hang on rider)?

The gpv1 body fits on the HOR fine with a little trimming, I'm working on that now, so I'd say it's fairly likely that the HOR body would fit on the gpv1 without too much fuss. After all, they're both 1/8 scale.

The Honda NSR 500 is easy to get hold of and cheap too.

Edited July 17, 2014 by Syncro

[R46]

hor body pants sorry, weighs a ton an bittle compared to lexan, you'll be limiting cell choice also, mine runs oto studio body

[Tamiyacowboy]

argh ......... 

 

to many nice bikes and so expensive ....... i need to rob a bank to fund a machine lol. 

 

yep going to look at hor stuff like bodywork, also trawl the freebie adds for another bike

but something more workable. i do like those hobbyking nitros, heard they a pile of poop but

thats the engines fault, it just needs a bigger engine like a side port 21 

but i would love to get a very dirty cheap OS surpass 30 fourstroker into a ducati frame

[turok007]

good to see that the new headstock part turned up.

[Tamiyacowboy]

oh yeah it is, 

 

i grabbed there last two in the store, they have no more and none of the standard headstocks.

 

7.50AUD each was the costing to me, then 33AUD shipping. shop hammers you on the postage

so the bargain it is not. and i would say theres atleast a couple thousand of these bikes out there

and NO parts being made for them now. 

 

i just wish i had the 400 quid for a cnc machine then another 200-300 for the software to run it and design parts.

but time being its all fitted and smooth as can be. 

the bike is lacking ball race bearings in the fork yolks and the front wheel has a side shift when spinning ( like a buckle )

. its been tsuffed into a kerb/wall/tree face on and then just cowboy'd up, the front forks are twisted

so i think the shaft has torn through the fork stays, buts its as straight as i could get it.

 

the old headstock is a total loss you could not mould a new one from it but could maybe get measurements

thats about it. just need to either install the tournqy 9x mini servo, or grab something a tad better, and a lipo.

install the 4ch radio ( but i may use an old orange rx 6ch and maybe get a nice body and do a full light kit mod )

highbeam/low, flash / brake - fog - rear tail / winkers left n right. using surface mount leds they a micro thing

and easy to hide away in the bodywork

[Tamiyacowboy]

Batterys on the way grabbed a pair of Zippy flightmax 2s 1300mah 20c.

 

made a breakaway rear seat/tank post from an old tamiya pumpkin front bumper.

same for the front cowl post, 

 

added a small micro TG9x hobbyking servo just for time being.

stripped off the nasty plastic and alloy skid rail holders. i need to find some slide rollers

as i want to set it up so i have a nice lean angle and get use from the full roll on the tyre

and not that little band edge on the rubber.

 

ESC: major problem its gotta reverse and is none prog.

i run sticks so i have no reverse, same goes for cars thats how i roll.

so i am trying to find an oldie castle 25 esc be even nice to find a spanking 8000kv green micro mamba to.

weight is no problem either, i had the motor mount off and think i can extend the center bore and the mount holes to

run a larger motor than the small micro inlines used.

 

need to be careful and try and source a holy grail upgrade spur gear adaptor, that way i can run most

on the market spur gears and not be stuck with trying to find discontinued venom parts.

 

bikes looking good, the rider has just lost his chest pin so i think i may carve him out with my dremal

make it a bit lighter less top heavy. 
Just need to find some sort of body clip mounting for the sides of the front cowling any slight jolt its dropping down and rubbing the ground.

its that or i cut the front cowl into two sections . 

 

like a streetbike / cafe racer style, have a three piece body set, bottom pan is a single small unit held on with two posts either side

the front cowl is split away from the bottom cowl and has no side panels, so the side is open. 

 

bit like this, i like the black and white styling and open sides, what do you guys think ?

 

Edited August 6, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy

[mydoddy69]

Scrap body pins use Velcro !!

Glad your finally making some headway , how long till we actually see it running ?

[Tamiyacowboy]

hacking off the 3mm banannas on esc takes few seconds.

then 5 mins to warm up the solder iron ( yeah its old like me and needs caressing into life )

two feet a hand and a hobby clamp ready to hold everything while i solder up the xt60 to esc. 

 

just shy of an hour re-topping off batterys when they arrive.

 

i have an ETA of around the weekend , batterys on the way 48hr deliv.

hooked up esc and servo. 

 

gotta be body pins guys, i looked at velcro and its not going to hold, cowlings and 

belly pan need to be locked solid to chassis, that saying i can run her bare boned with just the tank

fitted street monster style.

 

Still not happy with its looks, i am thinking of painting the rear crud catcher / tyre hugger in white ( pic above its the black scoop right above the rear wheel to the right )

the front crud catcher to i was thinking of white also.

[Tamiyacowboy]

So 

 

charged up a single battery, went to bind the reciever and its done.

tapped steering , it works. 

 

engaged throttle a little and sparkle sparks of light appear ........... 

 

so the battery was unplugged faster than a photon of light, didnt wanna puff a new pack.

had a closer more indepth look at the motor, brushed aside the rubbish heatshrink and i find

ALL THREE STATOR WINDS touching each other, the wires to the motors have been yanked about so much they have

started to stretch and leave bear wire exposed, did not even have to remove motor to see the major problem. 

 

the bike never worked before i purchased it ( yeah i used it alot ) . i should have taken more note to the batterys

with it. one is totaly puffed, i would say its the one that gave him an idea the motor was ragged out.

the second is missing its balance leads ( yep ripped right out of the pack ).

 

anyways the esc is now fitted with an xt60, im going to strip it out and with new motor

direct solder the esc to the motor cabling, no plugs and route cable so its not warped

around through and under the framework.