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One more ST brushless conversion.


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You can get a very good LiPo tray, the Losi 8 from USA through eBay for around £11. No tax or customs to pay either which is nice. The motor mount is expensive if you want a good one. I tried a cheaper one for around £24 but the bearing mount is too big causing the spur to sit at a slight angle.

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Thanks guys 

i went and got it this morning an have stripped it down already lol

i do have a motor mount an tray already BUT 

i was thinking about getting the tray that the vse uses, my son has the vse and the tray is quite compact and will fit nice I think,

also the motor mount I have does sit at all the right angles but the mount holes don’t line up with the chassis holes so I think I will order the mount you used, I’m assuming the holes line up or did you have to drill new 

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For the losi 8 tray most of the holes lined up. I did drill one hole to be safe though. The VSe tray will need all holes drilled. I’d really struggle to see any benefit of the VSe tray over the losi one to be honest.

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The hyper vs battery tray is a bit less chunky than the losi 8 tray that’s all (I have already got a losi8 tray)

i don’t really want to drill extra holes everywhere though, so we will see.

im going to order the vs motor mount 

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Good call getting the VS mount. I got my motor mount from Capri boy, it seemed good but I’ve had issues with the spur not sitting square to the mount causing slight mesh issues. It puzzled me for ages until months later I realised that the hole the bearing sits in is slightly too big allowing the spur gear to move. The saying buy cheap (although it wasn’t particularly) buy twice comes to mind.

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finally got this back up and running again. New Fan fitted on esc, esc is now screwed to the tray, drift stitches on shell and i taped the motor wires together. to stop them flapping around into the gears :P 

IMG_20190526_220751.jpg

IMG_20190526_220935.jpg

 

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3 hours ago, Nickarla said:

Nice one. How much abuse did it get?

Which Hong knuckles are they?

I didn't go crazy because there was a fair on at the park, so I couldn't go on the skate park as there were lots of people in the way, it was more of a shakedown run tbh. 

 

i am not sure what the part number is. i will find it for you later today. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

After my outing today with the MT410 and Hyper ST nothing broke other than the servo on the MT410, so i decided to do some general maintenance. Centre diff has been annoying me for a while as it was bleeding too much power to the front, the oil inside was black, so i replaced it with some fresh 500K and its much harder to turn now. One of the bearing is going bad though and i didnt have the correct size, so i have put it back in for now, but i will have to replace it later in the week.

 

 I also replaced the bearings in the steering as they were a big crusty. I have never replaced these before and it seems to be a bit smoother and faster steering on the table. I reset the servo saver at the same time as well as unlike the MT410 it was all the way loose One of my front hinge pins was s shaped as well, so i fixed the with the hammer :D   

 IMG_20190623_203704.jpg

IMG_20190623_221112.jpg

IMG_20190623_221116.jpg

 

Edited by Jumper
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've bought myself a Hyper ST ripe for conversion. I've ordered the Losi tray from the USA and I have a 'Castle' 2200KV 1515 coming from China. I will start with my WP SC8 to begin with and 4S (as I had both). 

 

I want to do the dual rear chassis brace change plus the Traxxas radio box mod. 

 

What I'm unsure of is gearing and whether I should stick with the stock 52T spur or swap to the Hyper 7 46T. I am going to get the VSE motor mount. I was going to replace all the bearings during rebuild with ones from RCBearings.co.uk. They always have done we well in the past. 

 

I think the truck I've bought has 20mm big bores on it already! Nice little bonus!

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Sounds good and yes, for the price, the bearings are well worth it.

 

I use the larger spur gear. I might try the 46T but in no rush as the 52T with a small pinion (10T) is slow enough already.

 

Finding the right shock springs for the conversion was the biggest pita with my Hong Nor big bores. Nothing expect the ludicrously expensive Kyosho springs could support the weight which isn’t really any more than most other 1:8 brushless cars. I may have been better off buying smaller shocks which have a wider availability of springs.

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20 minutes ago, Nickarla said:

Jumper, what oil did you have in before?

500k, just it needed new oil

52 minutes ago, Nathanio said:

I've bought myself a Hyper ST ripe for conversion. I've ordered the Losi tray from the USA and I have a 'Castle' 2200KV 1515 coming from China. I will start with my WP SC8 to begin with and 4S (as I had both). 

 

I want to do the dual rear chassis brace change plus the Traxxas radio box mod. 

 

What I'm unsure of is gearing and whether I should stick with the stock 52T spur or swap to the Hyper 7 46T. I am going to get the VSE motor mount. I was going to replace all the bearings during rebuild with ones from RCBearings.co.uk. They always have done we well in the past. 

 

I think the truck I've bought has 20mm big bores on it already! Nice little bonus!

you dont need dual rear brace at all, the cnc pro brace is fine. Stick with the 52T spur, it gives you a lot more gearing options, with the 46t you are limited to the 18t pinion or bigger which makes the gearing very very high. I run 48T spur with 16t pinion and i couldnt run a smaller pinion. 

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I have a critical failure yesterday,

 

IMG_20190706_215811.jpgIMG_20190706_215821.jpg

IMG_20190706_215830.jpg

IMG_20190706_220347.jpg

IMG_20190706_220354.jpg

 

:( battery tray came out and snapped in half, velcro strap snapped and esc connector was destroyed. luckily my battery was still held in by 2/3 straps. 

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Just now, Nickarla said:

🙀

How did that happen? Did the mount rip out from the screws holding it in the chassis? 

i have no idea XD 

Image result for impossibru

 

Nothing else broke on the car. 

 

All 3 screws holding that half of the tray in are gone, 2 were threaded into the tray itself, one had a locking nut on the top. I am guessing the 2 into the tray stripped out nd the one with the nut on must have sheared completely :119: 

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49 minutes ago, Jumper said:

I have a critical failure yesterday,

 

IMG_20190706_215811.jpgIMG_20190706_215821.jpg

IMG_20190706_215830.jpg

IMG_20190706_220347.jpg

IMG_20190706_220354.jpg

 

:( battery tray came out and snapped in half, velcro strap snapped and esc connector was destroyed. luckily my battery was still held in by 2/3 straps. 

 

Geeez 😱,  did you smack it against the tree or what? Connector is easy fix but tray is bye bye

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2 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

 

Geeez 😱,  did you smack it against the tree or what? Connector is easy fix but tray is bye bye

nope, just landed a jump the right way up. 

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Just now, Kukynas said:

ok so battery was heavier than tray could handle? otherwise can’t imagine why it would snap like that

i dont think so, I have used it many times and its not like its a new or different battery. it has been in since 2016, maybe it just go broken over a long time and many bashes :P 

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You'll probably find that is the 'weld' line of the plastic. That's from the moulding process and it is where the plastic flows into the mould from the feed lines and meets.

 

They'll be multiple flow feed lines but they have to meet somewhere and that's the weld line. Problem is that it's usually cools slightly as they meet and so you end up with a line that is slightly weaker than the surrounding plastic. 

 

Seen that sort of failure in the past in our product (at a previous employer), usually was the weld line or around a screw hole where extra stress. As there's no sign of a screw mount there I'd say weld line. 

 

I'd probably chop the servo lead off about 2cm back from the broken connector and then solder on a new one from a servo extension lead. It's prob put a lot of stress on the crimp pin and so not worth the risk for a couple of minutes with a soldering iron. 

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Lol, it’s funny when you suddenly realize you are talking with people from the same branch 😀 , anyway, if they used softer/flexible compound it wouldn’t snap like that and that’s the reason I didn’t use mine as yet and no reason to use it now after seeing what happened to your

 

reg connector, if pins are fine (even if bent) than just buy new housing and slide them in

 

 

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tbf its a losi tray, so its not some **** tier ebay conversion kit :P I have seen bickerty bam on youtube has issues with the arrma trays falling out. I am not sure what tray i am going to replace it with now XD 

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