using a lipo battery instead of nimh as my rx pack

[DLD]

The alternative is to spend a lot more money for lower capacity, more complication (regulator, alarm, etc.) and hence more to go wrong and the only advantage is lower self-discharge. Just use a switch with a charger connection fed outside your radio box and put the NiMh on trickle charge every couple of weeks so that problem is solved.

With all due respect, there are more advantages when using a Li-Fe 6.6 v battery on your RC than lower self discharge.

In the beginning it was 4 shell (4.8V) Nimh for the receiver in both car, Hyper 7 and HPI trophy 3.5. Some months later, an upgrade to 5 shell (6v) packs seemed necessary. More power for the servos, but at 1600MAh capacity, we had to charge the battery packs after 2-3 hours of driving, max.

 

Then time came for the 6.6v, 2 shell LiFe battery packs. No voltage regulator is necessary (FlySky FS-GT3B radio & GR3E RC, Savox 1256 steering and 1258 throttle) and the punch on the servos is way higher. And at 2000mah this is definately of higher capacity. Ofcourse, the Y-cable from the switch to an outside charger connection means your battery box does not have to be opened every time you want to charge.

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/6-6v-2000mah-lifepo4-receiver-battery.html

[Dubberz]

I agree with the above. Yes they may be more expensive BUT more steering torque and more consistent stopping power has to be worth 15-20 quid on something than weighs upto 10kg and can shift along at 50mph??

[mini-z-awd]

I'm using no regulator and it's a ACE Cougar 2.4 tx/rx. Why would you need a voltage regulator when a LiFe pack charges to 7.2v max? My hump nimh charged to 7v??

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

a li-fe will charge upto 7.2v and then shortly after it will drop down to the 6.6v so i wouldnt really bother with one i only used one to be on the safe side

[Dubberz]

I think making the step is a big one when obviously some people only run nitro so there is the extra expense of the charger. Me personally, I think they are fab! And they fit purrrrrfect in the Hyper battery box!

[Dubberz]

[Shudson]

With all due respect, there are more advantages when using a Li-Fe 6.6 v battery on your RC than lower self discharge.

In the beginning it was 4 shell (4.8V) Nimh for the receiver in both car, Hyper 7 and HPI trophy 3.5. Some months later, an upgrade to 5 shell (6v) packs seemed necessary. More power for the servos, but at 1600MAh capacity, we had to charge the battery packs after 2-3 hours of driving, max.

 

Then time came for the 6.6v, 2 shell LiFe battery packs. No voltage regulator is necessary (FlySky FS-GT3B radio & GR3E RC, Savox 1256 steering and 1258 throttle) and the punch on the servos is way higher. And at 2000mah this is definately of higher capacity. Ofcourse, the Y-cable from the switch to an outside charger connection means your battery box does not have to be opened every time you want to charge.

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/6-6v-2000mah-lifepo4-receiver-battery.html

 

I feel that I have to take issue with you on the question of a voltage regulator, if only to prevent the unwary blowing a receiver and whilst the servos you mention may be able to handle the higher voltage, not all servos can. Whilst the receivers you mention may be OK - I have no experience of any of them as I exclusively use sticks. My 30 2.4ghz sets are a mixture of 20 FrSky conversions (which will unquestionably handle 2S LiFe, and more) and 9 Core/Etronix/Tamco 3 channel sets which, being rated at 5.5v, will not. They can just about handle 6v NiMh  although, having said that, I have actually blown a receiver with a freshly charged 6v NiMh so I personally wouldn't risk LiFe. In any event, regardless of whether or not a regulator is needed, you still need some protection against over discharge.

 

My reference to capacity was in the context of the two alternatives that the OP had mentioned of 1100 and 1450mah.

[DLD]

One more thing Gents, as far as FlySky receivers go (I think somebody asked above), the GR3E receiver can handle voltages up to 10 volts and is dead cheap.

 

My son uses the high voltage Savox servos (a 1268 for steering and a 1267 for throttle/brakes) with a 2 shell, 7.4v lipo pack and no regulator.

 

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN1419

 

This is on his Losi 8ight 3.0 nitro buggy for the last 4-5 months, without any problems whatsoever.

 

And out of couriocity, i did compare the lipo pack versus the LiFe pack (2 different cars of course, same TRX, identical receivers. I now know for sure that these Savox high voltage servos together with a 2 shell 7.4 lipo pack are as powerfull as it gets. What a difference in steering and braking commands!

[DLD]

I feel that I have to take issue with you on the question of a voltage regulator, if only to prevent the unwary blowing a receiver and whilst the servos you mention may be able to handle the higher voltage, not all servos can. Whilst the receivers you mention may be OK - I have no experience of any of them as I exclusively use sticks. My 30 2.4ghz sets are a mixture of 20 FrSky conversions (which will unquestionably handle 2S LiFe, and more) and 9 Core/Etronix/Tamco 3 channel sets which, being rated at 5.5v, will not. They can just about handle 6v NiMh  although, having said that, I have actually blown a receiver with a freshly charged 6v NiMh so I personally wouldn't risk LiFe. In any event, regardless of whether or not a regulator is needed, you still need some protection against over discharge.

 

My reference to capacity was in the context of the two alternatives that the OP had mentioned of 1100 and 1450mah.

All I am saying is, I have run and tested 2 LiFe 6.6v, 2 shell battery packs on 2 different 1/8 nitro buggys we are running for at least a year (with this setup). This is with the FlySky GR3E receivers (4.5-10v), and normal (not high voltage) servos and NO voltage regulators installed, without any problems.

 

That is all.

Edited April 23, 2014 by DLD

[duopkik]

As someone who races and doesn't bash, this is my setup in my TLR 8ight 3.0 and has been for quite some time now.

Savox 2274 steering http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/142618/

Savox 1267 throttle/brake http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/65353/

LRP VTEC LiPo receiver pack 7.4v http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/LRP79911.html

Spektrum SR3520 receiver http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/53370/

My opinion is if you are going LiPo then go for the correct equipment which can handle it. I don't understand people who buy LiPo receiver battery's but carry on using equipment which can't handle the voltage so they have to buy a regulator, you may as well carry on using NiMh. A good alternative if you don't want to change your receiver and/or servos are LiFe battery's which run at 6.6v.