DLD

Is this fixed? Do you still need help ?

Hello there, OS #8 plugs fit perfectly on a Hyper .21 3-Port nitro engine. It is a standard size .21 glow plug. It is a very good choice as well, according to lots of users. The T4 Turbo Platinum Glow Plug you refer to is a "TURBO" glow plug. It will not fit your Hyper .21 3-port. See pictures of both plugs below and spot the obvious difference between the 2.

Success ! I installed the FS-iA4B receivers in 2 of my buggies and I am happy to say that they both run at 8.4 volts without any problems. "Internal voltage 1" below, is the receiver's battery voltage" So for everybody out there, although these receivers are advertised to operate at 4.0 - 6.5 volts, they are working OK with 2s lipo packs.

Good idea. Damn, why didn't I think about this until now? Yep, I think I might do just that over this weekend. Smoke or no-smoke, I shall report back with the results lol .

Thanks for your input, I appreciate your answer. The thing is, if I do that the high-voltage servos I use lose their speed and torque performance. I mean it would be sad for somebody to pay the extra cash in order to get fast and powerful HV servos, then use a BEC to drop the voltage on them . . . I've also learned not to trust BEC's. I find it creates a lot of heat (that's how the excess voltage is bled, with a simple transistor, it goes up as heat). I have also seen one create a fire on a Kyosho. It went up in flames like a bag of cotton, lol. My before-last alternative is FS-GR3E receivers. I own some of these old receivers and I am sure they work with up to 8.4 Volts DC (I have used them for months without an issue). They will pair and work with my FS-iT4S TRX. It is just that their latency is not that fast (AFHDS versus AFHDS-2A technology). And I suppose my absolute last alternative is to connect an FS-iA4B receiver up with the lipo, switch everything on and look for the trail of smoke . . .

I am looking for some time for an answer on this subject and i cannot find a clear one, so here is my question. Trying to upgrade to a FlySky FS-iT4S transmitter, driving my 1:8 buggies. The receiver that came with it is an FS-iA4B receiver. I need to buy some more of these for all my cars. http://www.flysky-cn.com/products_detail/productId=46.html On FlySky's website, as well as on all other sites that list this receiver, they define its operating voltage between 4.0 - 6.5 Volts DC. But on my 2 buggies I use 2 shell LiFE batteries and my son uses a 2s lipo on his Losi 8ight 3.0 nitro. A fully charged 2S LiFE reaches 7.2 volts and a fully charged 2S Lipo pack tops at 8.4 volts. So here goes the question: Did anybody out there ever tried to power one of these receivers (FS-iA4B) at 7.2 or 8.4 volts DC? Are they compatible, or will they burn out? Thanks in advance for an answer on this and best regards, FlySky_Tx_Rx_compatibility_table.pdf

You are mostly welcome. _

_. Make sure you are running proper (not worn out) tires. The rubber on all 4 corners is the most important factor of your setup. _. Next thing to check is Droop. If you have a lot of front droop, all your weight is being shifted to the rear when you are on the throttle, unloading weight from the front tires, so your steering is mostly gone. Remember, front and rear droop settings is a great way to balance on and off power traction. _. Ride height. Raise the rear of your car. Make sure the car front is 2 - 3 mm lower than the rear. _. Springs and oil can also affect front and rear weight transfer on and off the throttle. If you put on super soft springs and light oil, you will get a ton of weight transfer front and back, amplifying on-power understeer and off power oversteer. Try thicker oil and/or stiffer springs at the rear = more on power steering. _. Stand the Rear Shocks up straighter. Hope this helped you and gave you some new ideas.

I am always trying to buy nitro fuel in 2.5 liter containers (bottles). Like that , I only open and completely use 1 bottle a day, I never leave any opened nitro bottle for the next day. It is a bit more expensive (depending what /where you buy) but I believe this prevents nitro fuel from going bad, or having leaks from storing already opened nitro bottles. So, buy nitro fuel in containers that you can completely use on your every bashing / racing session and limit nitro fuel contact with air. That works for me.

Attached is the engine manual. Factory settings for the mach .28 engine: LSN: 2 full turns from fully closed HSN: 3 1/2 full turns from fully closed DYN_mach28_manua.pdf

You should fully re-tune the engine after you change the clutch bell. Be careful with the high needle settings. Make sure the engine comes to a steady idle after you release the throttle from WOT and stays there. If the RPM stays high after you release the throttle, after a full power run, richen the HSN. If the engine immediately dies after the throttle is released, check the engine temp. If too hot, richen the HSN half a turn, cool it down and re-tune. Too lean and too long WOT runs can overheat/damage your engine. Do not ask how I found this out lol

Hello there, If I were you, I would go one clutch bell tooth up from the standard installed. You will gain some speed, but your acceleration will suffer a bit because of it. I would say that going from a 13t bell to a 17t one, is way too much for the Hyper .21 engine. Are you bashing with it, or you want to race it? Do you have long enough straight(s) on your track to get to that speed? I would try some laps and see if the top speed gain with the bigger clutch bell is worth it, as it will take more time to reach that speed . . . If you want to see how fast it can go on a long straight (bashing) go for a 15t bell. I would not recommend a bigger size though. I hope that helps you.

Your speed sensor counts wheel RPM. But if you define for it your wheel rotational length, then it knows how far you have travelled and it knows time, so you get MPH out of it. Just trying to help. _

The rotational length of a wheel is its circumference. Rotational length is the distance a wheel has travelled after one full wheel rotation. To calculate that: Circumference C=πd, or C=2πr. π = 3.14 d= diameter of the wheel r = radius of a wheel. So, if you multiply your wheel diameter X 3.14 you have the rotational length of your wheel. For example, my 1:8 buggy wheel/tire has a diameter of 112 mm. So, 112 mm X 3.14 = 351.68 mm. Therefore, the rotational length of my buggy tire is 35,16 cm. To make it more complicated: The relationship between radius, diameter, circumference, revolutions and distance for a wheel can be calculated by using the formula on the site below: https://rechneronline.de/wheel/ I hope this helped.

Just an idea mate, Did you try lightly tapping your transmitter with your hand while it is on? Does it momentarily loose power maybe? Maybe shake the transmitter while driving and see if the car looses signal again? Not trying to be smart, it has happened to me before. Just my 2p. _

Very valuable info here, thank very much for posting. I have tried different diff oil setups in the past, in various nitro buggies. To my experience, thinner Center diff oil makes the buggy easier to drive on rough, loose and short tracks. If I use thicker Center diff oil I get more acceleration and more 4WD effect, but to the cost of more instability and nervousness, especially if you run a high power nitro engine on your setup. I lately run 5k - 5k - 2k on a crazy modded Hyper 7 TQ Sport (LTR ZR .30X) on a loose, dirty track and 5k - 5k - 3k on my Losi 8ight 3.0 buggy for racing (Front - Center - Rear). I liked this kind of setup when I first used it on the Losi and I kept it since. Just my 2 c. _

Any luck / progress with your engine mate ?

I would try the good ol' "Fuel line pinch test", if I was you. It will not fine tune the engine, but it will definately tell you if your LSN is too lean or too rich. With the engine at idle, pinch the fuel line going into your carburator and keep it blocked a few inches away from the carburator nipple. If the engine dies immediately or it takes less than 2-3 seconds to die, the LSN is too LEAN. If the engine takes more than 7-8 seconds to flame out, the LSN is too RICH. If it takes between 4 and 6 seconds to flame out, a fine tuning is still required but the problem is NOT the LSN. In this case, start looking in to other things (air leaks, glow plug, nitro fuel quality etc.). Just my 2 c. _

Sav

First of all, happy new year to everybody. I take it your car is an HPI Trophy Truggy, right? Did you change shock springs lately, or filled the shock struts with new oil? Sounds like you need to use a softer oil at the front, in order to get some more grip over pit holes and when accelerating. Or your front springs are either extremely soft of extremely hard. Check both front shock shafts for damage or slight bending. Check droop both at front and at the back, adjust to the recommented maximum droop for your car, don't know what it is. If everything seems fine check your front and rear anti-roll bars (sway bars they call them). If you do not have a front one installed, you should get one, it can really help. ONLY do one change at the time and try it mate, like that you know what helped. Just my 2 c. _

Tried a lot of different setups - upgrades - engines with my H7, I gave up at the end. It will not be able (my personal opinion) to race against the likes of MP9's and TLR Losi 8ight 3.0's. . . This buggy is a perfect basher though. For whatever its worth, here is a "Hyper 7 Pro build and setup" manual from the old days. Hope it helps: http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/hyper7index.html

It has been discussed soo many times. It is all a matter of what somebody really wants more, PULL START: In a lovely warm day, it is nice to walk around your track / bashing area with only a glow starter in your pocket. Or if you have to walk far to get to the place you have fun with your RC cars, you do not need to carry a roto start or a bump start with you. If your engine is properly tuned, the engine will fire up on the 1st or 2nd pull, if it is cold outside, preheat the engine, then it starts on the 3rd pull. Although pull starts are a pain because they brake often enough, it is the lighest choice. And you can buy 1 or 2 spare pull starts and when they brake, you immediately replace with a good one and repair the bad one for next time. The Rotostart: Is extremely simple for the novice to get an engine started. It is quite a simple system really. Although it has many needed components to get the whole system to function, once installed it can be used on several cars without any need to change any setup, except installing a rotostart back plate. So much for the good news. The rotostart wll not start your car, if you don't have a CHARGED battery pack. Rotostart is very harsh on engine One-Way bearings and also you can do damage by over-cranking a flodded engine with a rotostar, you can strip gears and maybe even damage a con rod. You should get familiar with the sound of a flooded engine when cranking and be carefull. The Starter Box, or bumpstart is for a lot of people the most reliable starting system. It will be the most expensive in the beginning, but on the long run those one-way bearings and pull starts add up very fast. No more One-Way bearings to lockup. Also more engines can use a bumpstart without modifying anything, just put it on the box, set it up and it is running. Again you MUST have a charged battery pack with you, otherwise you will hear no nitro noise. Also if you use a flywheel smaller in diameter than 32 mm, or if you install main chassis plate protection guards, you might have problems starting with a bumpstart. I am now used to a bump start. The best choice in my opinion. _

My 2 lads and myself have been bashing around with both of these buggies for the last couple of years. The Hobao 7 (2012 TQ) is a very strong (heavy) basher, difficult to break (unless you hit something) and a fantastic first-bashing buggy. Spares arte easy to find and also pretty cheap. A very good choice to get in the 1/8 nitro buggy hobby. The HPI trophy 3.5 (original V1) is quite good, looks better than the Hyper 7 (personal opinion) and although pretty strong, I found it is not as strong and reliable as a Hyper 7. Definatel;y spend more time fixing the Trophy, than I did on the Hyper 7. Speed / Engine wise, I would say they are the same fast. I would still buy the Hyper 7 infront of a Trophy 3.5. But remember, it is a basher, not a racer. My 2c. _

I have good experience using Savox servos in all 3 of my cars. Buy cheap, then buy again next year. Or Buy a Savox SC-1256, stick it in and forget all about steering servos for the years to come. My 2c. _

For whatever it is worth, I have been using a SureStart heater in 3 different cars, for the last 2-3 years without any problems. Quite simple in operation and it fits (almost) all sizes of cooling heads. It will even shut down when 180 F is reached and restart when cooled down. http://www.rcsurestart.com/