jony nitro Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Your not wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 Not a bad vid of the new B version, look out for the near miss at 1:22, great filming! And yes, I know it's a Nitro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Stop whetting the appetite!! A fine looker. A must have. Fortunately, that godawful music hides the tinny rasp of the nitro lump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Gave her a good run this afternoon, all holding up well. Handles quite well, a little twitchy, but that's to be expected from a 2wd buggy. No grip roll, hugs the ground nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Sup guys, It was me that had Big Gaz's scorpion off him What can i say? I love it, top end is a bit lower than i'd like but it's the first deliberately rwd rc i've had so that's a whole new level of fun for me :D I'll agree that the rears are poo though so looking back through the thread it seems that truggy wheels would be the way forward(mt look to big to me in that pic), any suggestions/links to anything suitable at all please? The meatier and nobblier the better lol. I've not kept any of the truggies i've had for very long in the past(don't like the drive) so i've never actually looked much into truggy wheels Only other bad things i've noticed so far are that i had one of the nyloc's on the front hinge pin disappear, god knows how as they are recessed. And some of the paint is coming off the centers of the wheels(front and rear) where they are flexing i guess. Other than that it seems all good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Mine is in the loft and won't be getting built anytime soon, moving so have to declutter...one day, she will live Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Sup guys, It was me that had Big Gaz's scorpion off him What can i say? I love it, top end is a bit lower than i'd like but it's the first deliberately rwd rc i've had so that's a whole new level of fun for me :D I'll agree that the rears are poo though so looking back through the thread it seems that truggy wheels would be the way forward(mt look to big to me in that pic), any suggestions/links to anything suitable at all please? The meatier and nobblier the better lol. I've not kept any of the truggies i've had for very long in the past(don't like the drive) so i've never actually looked much into truggy wheels Only other bad things i've noticed so far are that i had one of the nyloc's on the front hinge pin disappear, god knows how as they are recessed. And some of the paint is coming off the centers of the wheels(front and rear) where they are flexing i guess. Other than that it seems all good Make sure you get off-set rims or you'll need to get hub extensions. XTM Grinders are awesome spikes, but sadly discontinued. Not much else out there, hence my choice with the Badlands. The Badlands are very soft, which is typical Proline, but on mud and grass they perform well. Just don't use them on road as they'll be bald in minutes. Swap the ESC and the car really wakes up! I've yet to try 6s, but 5s is proving a good choice. I've lowered the punch considerably, this helps get off the line quicker. Go over the car and threadlock everything, most notably the pillow balls, these are forever working loose! (Not now I've threadlocked them!) Enjoy it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Yeah I've been looking about and I'd decided on badlands as well, just need to get me some Cheers for the heads up about the pillow balls, I'll check them before I run it next. The standard new car rebuild is on my to do list but you know how it goes. As for the esc I might be tempted to go 5/6s with it to be honest considering it just needs like a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Higher voltage really is needed to get her moving, the motor isn't complaining yet and that's including two extra teeth on the pinion! Rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 (edited) Yeah I was really surprised with the motor temp on 4s, it wasn't even noticeably warm. So I guess there's plenty of room to play with gearing/voltages I'm sure I read somewhere that the motor was like a 2250kv or something but I think that was just a forum post somewhere, couldn't seem to find anything official though. One of the promo videos has one running 6s with the "optional esc upgrade" or something no mention of the motor though so in theory kyosho say it'll handle 6s Edited April 7, 2014 by Ross9999992 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Oh yeah, you don't change the can, it's 6s compatible. So as you said, 50 quid ESC and job done. I think it's a 2000kv, I'm sure that's what I read, but I'd need to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Short, but well made vid of the new version. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Am I right in thinking that's just a new shell, red springs and thinner rear wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Am I right in thinking that's just a new shell, red springs and thinner rear wheels? Pretty much, nicely designed shell with wheel wells that keep the dirt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Oh i dunno about that, it's all still open and quite dirty inside.....jetwash though, awesome idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Tonight she decided to eat her own diff cup. Not impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Mullered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenough Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Nice.... Just what you didn't need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Well that sucks, if it's done that on 5s then that doesn't bode well for 6s Someone elsewhere said they've used mp777 gears in their scorp....part number if102 so that should save a few quid, now where to get an alloy diff cup from? We're the screws still tight? Thinking about getting some machine threaded ss ones in and rebuilding the whole thing, seems like the standard screws don't like staying in anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 I'm not sure what failed first, but I'd reckon the diff gears. Then the ensuing mayhem of bits of metal getting thrashed about is what caused the cup to split. If you can find where you read about these alternatives, that'd be well worth looking into. An ally diff cup would also be handy, I'm gonna dig through my spares box and see if anything else will fit. I won't give up on her yet, when she's running she's an amazing ride! I don't think you need to change the screws, they're made of a seemingly good quality steel. Just threadlock the metal to metal fixings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 I'd look at Savage or Hyper diffs and see what's what. I replaced all the internals on my MF with Savage gears, I looked at swapping the diff cups as well, and both were close. Hyper case was a better fit.... but a Savage one would have if it was ground down a bit. Alloy Savvy one with Hyper internals maybe I got a selection of diff bits from both if yo uwant to experiment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 I'd look at Savage or Hyper diffs and see what's what. I replaced all the internals on my MF with Savage gears, I looked at swapping the diff cups as well, and both were close. Hyper case was a better fit.... but a Savage one would have if it was ground down a bit. Alloy Savvy one with Hyper internals maybe I got a selection of diff bits from both if yo uwant to experiment! You're a diamond, I'm sure there's a simple fix just waiting to be discovered! When it's fixed, you get to have a damn good drive and see what you think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) I've not read the whole thread all the way through but post 138 of linky says that he has been using them for 10 runs without issue. Been years since I had my savage but what you said nitro made a little light bulb go off in my head about the sawy, back in the day I think those same kyosho gears were the suggested upgrade for the savage , could be wrong but if so maybe whatever people are using nowadays in savages would fit as well. Edited April 11, 2014 by Ross9999992 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pando Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Same thing happened to my scorpion,after a few runs.And another lads I used to bash with,diffs do seem like a real weak point on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 I've not read the whole thread all the way through but post 138 of linky says that he has been using them for 10 runs without issue. Been years since I had my savage but what you said nitro made a little light bulb go off in my head about the sawy, back in the day I think those same kyosho gears were the suggested upgrade for the savage , could be wrong but if so maybe whatever people are using nowadays in savages would fit as well. Didn't read it all either, but the if102 sounds reasonable. Just need a decent cup to complete the repair. The rest of the car seems sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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