Tug Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Not seen that, sounds complicated! And expensive! Just wanted a quick fix, hence the GPM crown gear. I'm hoping to give it a thorough spanking today on 6s and see how it holds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 I, quite possibly, have achieved nirvana. We shall see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 I have indeed achieved nirvana! These have arrived with barely any signs of use! I've not prepped them ready for installation yet, but I have opened the housings to find a very pleasant surprise! Spiral gears! No pics of the internals yet, but I'll take some when I'm filling with my preferred wt of oil. Then they'll be shimmed, then fitted. I also need to sacrifice another four Traxxas stub axles as the drive cups on these are always too short! I'll get pics later when I get wrenching. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Right, for those who don't know, the UE diffs have notoriously short drive cups. This causes the CVDs to drop out continuously, which is kind of annoying. Suicideneil showed me how to use Traxxas stub axles to sort this. Take a stub axle and cut off the threaded section. I had to sacrifice four of them. When I opened the diffs I found them almost dry! These are the spiral cut gears. Here's the first one rebuilt. You can just see the new stub axles poking out. This is where the drive cups are attached, as opposed to the all in one cups that were too short. Here are the finished articles, on the left is the front diff with 60k and the rear diff on the right has 15k. With these fitted I shouldn't suffer any more diff failures. They both needed just one shim to remove the small amount of slop and to hold that mesh perfectly. They won't get fitted today, I've got Savvy work to do next. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 *Noob question alert* Why the huge difference in oil weights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 *Noob question alert* Why the huge difference in oil weights? A lot of it is personal preference. For me the heavy oil up front is to reduce the understeer and reduce the unloading to one front wheel when they start to lift. Under hard acceleration you can see one wheel balloon and distort far more than the other. A heavy oil in the front diff reduces this. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 A lot of it is personal preference. For me the heavy oil up front is to reduce the understeer and reduce the unloading to one front wheel when they start to lift. Under hard acceleration you can see one wheel balloon and distort far more than the other. A heavy oil in the front diff reduces this. Thanks for that well written and informative answer chap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Thanks for that well written and informative answer chap. Ain't no funky thang! I should get the diffs fitted tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Ain't no funky thang! I should get the diffs fitted tomorrow. That being said, I appreciate it. Hope they do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Finally sat and fitted the UE diffs tonight! Finger's crossed that the weather holds and I can get a few packs through them! Hopefully no more failed diffs! This car is pretty much sorted now, it just needs a good ragging! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 I really must change the name of this truck and this thread, let's face it, the budget is well and truly blown! I've just been out in the road putting these UE diffs through their paces. A full pack of 5000mah through them, the car never missed a beat. The ESC only hit 30C, the motor managed 65C. She popped wheelies on demand and was a dream to drive. Loving the old 3906 more and more. Can't wait for next summer! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 so to get to to a fully sorted 3096 what is the "budget" for anybody following your path? thanks sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 The "budget"? Hmm, in all honesty, you can't stick to a budget in this hobby, not if you want reliability. This car was supposed to be hopped up using only the cheapest hop-ups available, for example the crown gears were hopped up with 8 quid items. They were fine, but because they're still 1/10 diffs at the end of the day, the bearings are always going to be stressed. So what happened? The bearings that support the diff pinion failed which dropped the crown and pinion out of mesh. The Crown survived, but was badly chewed by the balls that were released by the destroyed bearings. Moral is? You can't build a budget basher that'll last, not for BL bashing at least. My advice would be start from the diffs and build from there. The best solution, and the only one I'd recommend, is getting a set of UE diffs. Then focus on the rest, one bit at a time. If you want a full list of what I'd recommend, I'll gladly write it. One thing you don't need to do is start with an RTR, way to expensive, then you just strip most of it away and buy better bits. With something that has the kind of aftermarket support that Traxxas and HPI do, building from the ground up is definitely the best option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 The "budget"? Hmm, in all honesty, you can't stick to a budget in this hobby, not if you want reliability. This car was supposed to be hopped up using only the cheapest hop-ups available, for example the crown gears were hopped up with 8 quid items. They were fine, but because they're still 1/10 diffs at the end of the day, the bearings are always going to be stressed. So what happened? The bearings that support the diff pinion failed which dropped the crown and pinion out of mesh. The Crown survived, but was badly chewed by the balls that were released by the destroyed bearings. , Moral is? You can't build a budget basher that'll last, not for BL bashing at least. My advice would be start from the diffs and build from there. The best solution, and the only one I'd recommend, is getting a set of UE diffs. Then focus on the rest, one bit at a time. If you want a full list of what I'd recommend, I'll gladly write it. One thing you don't need to do is start with an RTR, way to expensive, then you just strip most of it away and buy better bits. With something that has the kind of aftermarket support that Traxxas and HPI do, building from the ground up is definitely the best option. thats roughly what i thought, if i talk to the wife my "budget" is always xxx but to do something properly as you well know the budget always gets stretched to XXX. it would be nice to see a video now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Private PayPal account connected to private credit card, but I never said that! Build it slowly whilst looking for new or used parts on the Web, always looking for the cheapest price. With the Maxx, it's UE diffs or bust. With a Savvy, the 9/29 diffs are fine, so then it's just choosing chassis, wishbones etc. A vid will be coming, fo sho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Another pack through her tonight, just on-Road, but great fun nonetheless. Diffs have settled in fine, but I kinda expected that. No vid, was too dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Ill take a list of what youd recommend mate :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Ill take a list of what youd recommend mate :-) I'll write one later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 I took this out on Sunday to get a decent amount of footage for a long vid, but within a couple of minutes the ESC died. Here's what I got. It ain't much. Couple of nice wheelies though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Sounds just like a couple of XL2's that I killed whilst getting the Ram running. My Maxx still has its Feigao motor I got as a 6S kit from Kershaw with the 3M - never had a problem. I swopped the 3M for an XL2 and simply got LOADS more power, and cooler running. A cheaper motor I ran in the Raminator with the XL2's didn't go - blew 2 XL2's. I got them replaced under warranty and received a 'warning' from Castle that I was over-gearing. .... . but with the 1717 in the Ram now, there's no problem. I'm often thinking its the quality of the motor. The Feigao on 6S in the Maxx is fine. The 1717 on 6S in the Ram is fine. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Ain't no way I'm trying to squeeze an XL2 into an e-Maxx. Besides, it shouldn't need anything more than a 3M, especially with only 1700kv. I'll fit an Xerun and go again, that should run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 It does run better 'though ............ Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 It wouldn't fit, so I'll never know. Xerun should arrive today, then I'll get back to putting a few packs through the "Hens teeth" diffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/19314-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/19313-pict0204/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/19311-/ Of course it fits - JUST!! I've noticed you're quite happy with the XE-Run 150A's so we'll 'Watch this Space' ... Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 The chassis I'm using on this truck wouldn't allow the space needed. HW FTW! What's the kv of that motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.