chewbacca Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Couldn't resist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoodoo Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Shelves are for books! And my unbuilt vintage kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 And my unbuilt vintage kits Tamiya? Landfill fodder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Oi, heathens, enough of this shelfer battering, if you please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Batter would ruin them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 My Cod, what are you saying? !!!! Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoodoo Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Tamiya? Landfill fodder. Erm....yep And Team Associated,Losi and HPI....Throw them to the wolves!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoodoo Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Never heard of these before.....check this out! http://maxxparts.forumactif.org/f1-centralemaxx-rc-hopups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoodoo Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 My bad,never did draw up that list. Here goes, all in 3mm diameter; Cap head; 9, 12, 16, 20 & 25mm. Countersunk; 6, 9, 12, 16, 20 & 25mm. You may not use them all, but I do. I chop and change things, so a multitude of different screws helps. I don't buy button head screws because they round out too easily. I keep a few 30 and 35mm screws too, but they're only for the occasional special application. Hope this helps. If you want part numbers, I can do that in the morning. Don't buy the shiny stuff, they're softer. You want the black 12.9 grade. They're called Orbitals, I can order for you or you open an account. This should do it..... Items being ordered SKU Product Qty Unit Price Line Price 1891010 M3x8 Socket Cap Screw, High Tensile Grade 12.9 Self Colour, DIN 912 30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Tell me you didn't type that lot! Night yawl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoodoo Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Tell me you didn't type that lot! Night yawl! Oh yes....do things properly Ha ha,the beauty of copy and paste. Edited January 25, 2015 by yoodoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Little update; Fantastic bash today, she ran like a trooper! Only breakage was the cross pin on a Traxxas steel CVD. Had a plastic CVD with me, so popped that in and kept going. Current set-up is Xerun 150 Amp ESC, Losi 1700kv motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share Posted May 21, 2018 Blew the dust off this trusty old truck tonight, had a fun little bash. No big air, but plenty of little jumps and a fair few wheelies. A front CVD popped out, but it turns out the pillow-balls had backed out, might have to try threadlock on them, see if that helps. Metal to plastic, does that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 17 hours ago, Tug said: Blew the dust off this trusty old truck tonight, had a fun little bash. No big air, but plenty of little jumps and a fair few wheelies. A front CVD popped out, but it turns out the pillow-balls had backed out, might have to try threadlock on them, see if that helps. Metal to plastic, does that work? Most threadlocks either eat plastic or cause it to go brittle over time. You can get cyanoacrylate based threadlock that is safe on plastics, but this is basically expensive superglue, so I just use superglue. Works just as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 18 minutes ago, XV Pilot said: Most threadlocks either eat plastic or cause it to go brittle over time. You can get cyanoacrylate based threadlock that is safe on plastics, but this is basically expensive superglue, so I just use superglue. Works just as well! Cheers for the reply, but thanks to my impatience, it's already applied. If it causes issues, it's my tough luck. It's only some a-arms, not life changing. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Brilliant thread mate a real beast of a truck. Glad to see its waking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted July 7, 2018 Author Share Posted July 7, 2018 Took it out last night and it sounds like the rear diff has gone, will get in to it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 Sorted, the crown gear screws were too short and had backed out. New internal gears fitted from the parts bin, longer screws for the crown gear and we're good to go. The crown and pinion looked fine with virtually no signs of wear, that's good considering how many packs have been through them. Feels good to be getting to grips with the fleet again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 So this time it was the diff cup, it broke the spigot off that sits inside the bearing. The cup is unfamiliar to me, but looks like it might be an HPI, not sure. I've now fitted a complete Hyper 7 diff, ran a full set of 6S through it and all seems well. Motor hit 60C, ESC 45 and cells 50. Miles of smiles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 It is a beast mate. Did you already have the maxx bulkhead? Modded to take the 1/8 diff. I knew that mod from the revo installing losi lst diffs and cvds. Needs some update vids man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 I'm using RPM bulkheads, it's the clever Unlimited Engineering diff housing that allows the use of 1/8 buggy diffs. Cheers, she's a lot of fun. I got some footage recently, just haven't sifted through it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted September 4, 2018 Author Share Posted September 4, 2018 Read through this entire thread this morning, I'd forgotten half of the things I'd done and tried with this truck! Why did I fit a long can 1480kv motor to a truck with a reduction gearbox? Totally unnecessary! The current 1700 is OK, but I could easily just go back to a 2200, I don't need masses of torque because it has a gearbox! Maybe I'm just looking for excuses to tinker? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 I just read the whole thread too, lots of useful information , thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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