XV Pilot Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Red goes to yellow, blue goes to green. Let us know how it runs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted July 15, 2013 Author Share Posted July 15, 2013 Red goes to yellow, blue goes to green. Let us know how it runs! thanks, just gave it throttle on my 'starter box' and it flipped off backwards lol made me jump a tad. Next is my oil shocks and a decent ESC, and then ill give it a good run out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Sounds good so far! Which ESC are you going for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 Im unsure on the ESC what would you recommend - price range of upto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 For your purposes you can't go wrong with a Sniper RV-12 (or RV-12 Assault if you think you may run LiPos in the future). Solid, reliable, genuinely waterproof, and with good after-sales support if anything does go wrong, it would be my first recommendation. I have several of them in my cars and boats, and haven't had a single issue with any of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 For your purposes you can't go wrong with a Sniper RV-12 (or RV-12 Assault if you think you may run LiPos in the future). Solid, reliable, genuinely waterproof, and with good after-sales support if anything does go wrong, it would be my first recommendation. I have several of them in my cars and boats, and haven't had a single issue with any of them. is it easy to set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) Physical installation is dead easy, and basic calibration is very straightforward. If you want to adjust brake/reverse settings, it becomes a little more complex, but the instructions are easy enough to follow. It is just a case of watching the flashing lights and pressing the setup button at the appropriate time. There is another ESC of similar price and spec called the Trident XT-12, which is a bit easier to set up, and is also fully waterproof, etc, but it is a relatively new design, and I think it might still have a few issues that need sorting. I had one in one of my buggies where it lasted half a run, then got stuck in LiPo mode even though the flash codes said it was in NiMH mode. I sent it back, and its replacement is working fine, so maybe mine was a one-off malfunction, but I cannot recommend it with the same confidence as I can recommend the RV-12 and RV-12 Assault. Edited July 16, 2013 by XV Pilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 ok perfect, ive seen a few automatic set up ones, are they worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) I wouldn't go for an auto-set-up ESC. The automatic setup features easily get confused by the failsafes on many modern 2.4 GHz radios, so if you decide to upgrade your radio gear to 2.4 GHz, you might find that your ESC starts to misbehave. Manually calibrated ESCs do not suffer from such issues. Edited July 16, 2013 by XV Pilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 ok cool in the next couple days ill make another purchase. also do I have to run the new motor in n how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Run-in is a topic of some debate. On sealed-can motors such as the Clash, it is usually regarded as not all that critical. Some people simply take it easy for the first few packs, some run the motor with no load for a pack before putting it in the car, others run the motor submerged in water for a few minutes, and then there is also the non-powered submersion technique, where you get an old motor, connect its shaft to that of your new motor, then run the old motor backwards while submerging the new motor in mildly soapy water. Personally, I would just run it at half-throttle with no load for a few minutes before putting it in the car, and then take it easy for the first pack or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) Run-in is a topic of some debate. On sealed-can motors such as the Clash, it is usually regarded as not all that critical. Some people simply take it easy for the first few packs, some run the motor with no load for a pack before putting it in the car, others run the motor submerged in water for a few minutes, and then there is also the non-powered submersion technique, where you get an old motor, connect its shaft to that of your new motor, then run the old motor backwards while submerging the new motor in mildly soapy water. Personally, I would just run it at half-throttle with no load for a few minutes before putting it in the car, and then take it easy for the first pack or two. sorry what do you mean no load lol ? Edited July 16, 2013 by PNuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 No load = not providing drive to anything, i.e. out of the car, with its shaft rotating freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boyjohn Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Do you plan on fixing the shell, or replacing it? If replacement is your preferred option, the Mad Bull shell is pretty easy to get hold of, and pretty cheap too. That's the one I am running on mine. I bought two, one for using and one for display. I've just bought a Fighter Buggy for my grandson from ebay. It seemed a good simple car to start him off with. Not many bids, so maybe they aren't very popular. Possibly because of the body? Anyway, he likes the Hornet body on his uncle's Thundershot, so I though I might get a Mad Bull body for him as well. Is it a straight swap - I mean does it fit on the existing mounting posts? If my grandson wants to later update to Mad Bull wheels, are they also a direct swap? Last question! If the Mad Bull is still in production, does that mean he will be able to get parts for the Fighter Buggy quite easily? Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I think the body mounts are the same, but if you upload a picture of your chassis I will compare it to mine and confirm. The big wheels need longer front axles. They are pretty easy to get though, as they are still in production, as are the rest of the DT01 parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 +1 on the XT-12. I've been running one for a few months and I think it's a peach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boyjohn Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 I think the body mounts are the same, but if you upload a picture of your chassis I will compare it to mine and confirm. The big wheels need longer front axles. They are pretty easy to get though, as they are still in production, as are the rest of the DT01 parts. I hope the picture of the chassis is here "> or here http://s247.photobucket.com/user/mimsall/media/chassis.jpg.html?sort=4&o=0 John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boyjohn Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 I think the body mounts are the same, but if you upload a picture of your chassis I will compare it to mine and confirm. The big wheels need longer front axles. They are pretty easy to get though, as they are still in production, as are the rest of the DT01 parts. Picture of chassis should be here: ">http://s247.photobucket.com/user/mimsall/media/chassis.jpg.html'> Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 (edited) Comparing that pic to my Mad Bull, I can confirm that the front body mount is the same but the rear one is different. The rear body post on the Mad Bull is longer and mounted further forwards. Looking at my manual, I believe the sprue you'd need is part number 9335259 (D parts). Edited November 8, 2013 by XV Pilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boyjohn Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 OK, thanks for the info. So does that confirm that this is a DT01 chassis? Also thanks for letting me know I'll need longer axles. If the front post is the same, does that mean that a Mad Bull driver will fit? I'm missing the driver from the Fighter Buggy. Thanks again John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Oh yes, it is definitely a DT01 chassis, no doubt about that. The Mad Bull uses the same driver figure as the Fighter Buggy (and Hornet and Grasshopper and several others) so he will fit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boyjohn Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thanks for all your help John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokein Joe Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Just come across this old thread. I've got a Fighter Buggy Mrs SJ bought me for Xmas sometime in the 90's (along with a couple of road cars and Kyosho bikes). I did think of a new buggy but decided to upgrade this instead (I don't compete, just use it for my own amusement) It was fully ballraced and fitted with an ESC years back, I've just ordered the shocks recommended by XV Pilot on ebay, should be here by the weekend and I'm going to replace the stock 380 motor with a 540. Being a basic Tamiya the steering is a bit wooly and I'd like to improve it, any ideas on what upgrade parts I should buy and fit? Links to suitable stuff if poss please. Also, can you get a lexan body that will fit? Ta for reading, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PNuts Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 sorry to revive my own thread - but I was out enjoying the buggy last week when all of a sudden it came to a stand still - I assumed the battery was flat, so recharged it and still nothing - so I just checked the motor was still aligned etc and it is, ive noticed without the wheels on the axle spins freely and very quickly, as soon as I put the wheels on - the wheels barely move. what could be the answer - the pinions look ok, the teeth don't look ruined. Im running a 21t motor on a 3300 nimah battery, on standard msc if this has any bearing on it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonysmini Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Have you lost a wheel hex pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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