Shumacher lc racing EMB-1

[capri-boy]

I went to the tenshock not long after launch, but the 5150kv (from me) - didn't rate it over the stock 4500kv red can.  Still sits in my languishing race emb, but mostly due to color scheme!

 

Bar a 5 min test I've never run 3S in these - for day to day running haven't seen the point.  Running on longer grass will have put a huge strain on the drivetrain - esc probably coped as over kill for these - motor obv didn't. 

 

I can vouch for the racestar and other unbranded versions of the same motor - perfectly good for a basher, but the original is so good I've amassed a fair supply of spares.

[Ag100]

1 hour ago, capri-boy said:

I went to the tenshock not long after launch, but the 5150kv (from me) - didn't rate it over the stock 4500kv red can.  Still sits in my languishing race emb, but mostly due to color scheme!

 

Bar a 5 min test I've never run 3S in these - for day to day running haven't seen the point.  Running on longer grass will have put a huge strain on the drivetrain - esc probably coped as over kill for these - motor obv didn't. 

 

I can vouch for the racestar and other unbranded versions of the same motor - perfectly good for a basher, but the original is so good I've amassed a fair supply of spares.

Agreed, it’s fine on the 2s, I was just interested to see the difference, but it kind of takes away the fun a bit on the 3s, as you can’t  use full throttle for fear of it flipping.

What sort of temps should I be looking for on these?, don’t want to kill another motor, do I need to rest it in between packs?

[silone74]

Yes I had 6850kv go running on 2s only, geared down too because it was getting very hot, if you can get hold of the leopard motors snap them up, i have been running a leopard non sensored 2838 5200kv for years and no problems at all and that's been in standard buggy and still in my lwb conversion, i put the blue 2845 5400kv banggood special in my son's buggy and it has held up well and actually performing pretty good geared with stock 60t spur and 18t pinion. 

I still have a new tenshock 6850kv in my spares box.

[capri-boy]

On 20/07/2020 at 09:15, Ag100 said:

Agreed, it’s fine on the 2s, I was just interested to see the difference, but it kind of takes away the fun a bit on the 3s, as you can’t  use full throttle for fear of it flipping.

What sort of temps should I be looking for on these?, don’t want to kill another motor, do I need to rest it in between packs?

 

Sorry for delay.  I try not to run over 50C measured on the outer case, internal temps will be higher.  Hotter and the glue that holds the magnets to the rotor can fail, though each brand will vary.  You need to get pretty hot to demagnatize the magnets... but anecdotally higher temps over time do seem to cause 'wear'.

 

Thumb rule is useful if you don't have a thermometer - if you can't hold your thumb on the case for 5 secs comfortably then it's too hot.  Remember being undergeared can also equate to a hot motor - as your more likely to run it WOT (wide open throttle) - thus it'll spin at higher rpm's.

[Ag100]

5 hours ago, capri-boy said:

 

Sorry for delay.  I try not to run over 50C measured on the outer case, internal temps will be higher.  Hotter and the glue that holds the magnets to the rotor can fail, though each brand will vary.  You need to get pretty hot to demagnatize the magnets... but anecdotally higher temps over time do seem to cause 'wear'.

 

Thumb rule is useful if you don't have a thermometer - if you can't hold your thumb on the case for 5 secs comfortably then it's too hot.  Remember being undergeared can also equate to a hot motor - as your more likely to run it WOT (wide open throttle) - thus it'll spin at higher rpm's.

Thank you, I will keep an eye on temps, I have a cheap temp gun from EBay coming.

 

Currently run a 60t spur and 18t pinion, I do have a 20t, but I did wonder if that would make it run hotter. I also have the 19t that came with the kit, but I’m not sure if it will work too well with the Hardened steel spur that I’m running.

[jimbulsara]

11 hours ago, capri-boy said:

 

Sorry for delay.  I try not to run over 50C measured on the outer case, internal temps will be higher.  Hotter and the glue that holds the magnets to the rotor can fail, though each brand will vary.  You need to get pretty hot to demagnatize the magnets... but anecdotally higher temps over time do seem to cause 'wear'.

 

Thumb rule is useful if you don't have a thermometer - if you can't hold your thumb on the case for 5 secs comfortably then it's too hot.  Remember being undergeared can also equate to a hot motor - as your more likely to run it WOT (wide open throttle) - thus it'll spin at higher rpm's.

 

 

On 21/07/2020 at 21:37, silone74 said:

Yes I had 6850kv go running on 2s only, geared down too because it was getting very hot, if you can get hold of the leopard motors snap them up, i have been running a leopard non sensored 2838 5200kv for years and no problems at all and that's been in standard buggy and still in my lwb conversion, i put the blue 2845 5400kv banggood special in my son's buggy and it has held up well and actually performing pretty good geared with stock 60t spur and 18t pinion. 

I still have a new tenshock 6850kv in my spares box.

Sorry to hijack the convo again.  
What motor do you guys recommend to run on grass then? and still be relatively fast (>30 mph)  for a EMB-1 on 2s?  is the tenshock 2938 6150kv good? OR should i go for a larger motor 2845 from bangood? or even a 2850, these are relatively expensive for being from china? What sort of KV? 
 

 

[Ag100]

12 hours ago, jimbulsara said:

 

 

Sorry to hijack the convo again.  
What motor do you guys recommend to run on grass then? and still be relatively fast (>30 mph)  for a EMB-1 on 2s?  is the tenshock 2938 6150kv good? OR should i go for a larger motor 2845 from bangood? or even a 2850, these are relatively expensive for being from china? What sort of KV? 
 

 

I have just fitted the Tenshock 6150 from DMS, but have yet to run it, to be fair the Tenshock 4850 it Came with is fast enough, I think it’s just a case of upgrade-itus for me😀

with the 4850 I got had it on grass at 38mph on 3s, so on 2s would still probably be about 30mph, which is plenty with these 

 

lots of people successfully run the Banggood motors with no problems too

 

[jimbulsara]

15 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

I have just fitted the Tenshock 6150 from DMS, but have yet to run it, to be fair the Tenshock 4850 it Came with is fast enough, I think it’s just a case of upgrade-itus for me😀

with the 4850 I got had it on grass at 38mph on 3s, so on 2s would still probably be about 30mph, which is plenty with these 

 

lots of people successfully run the Banggood motors with no problems too

 

That’s awesome. Let me know how it runs on grass. You mentioned that calipers are handy for the build. Do I need to cut something too? I did noticed that there was a part in the manual that indicates something to cut...

[Ag100]

7 minutes ago, jimbulsara said:

That’s awesome. Let me know how it runs on grass. You mentioned that calipers are handy for the build. Do I need to cut something too? I did noticed that there was a part in the manual that indicates something to cut...

I didn’t have to cut anything, I think you are referring to the shock pistons?, mine seemed to be fine.

The callipers are for setting the distances on the turnbuckles, and also the Slipper shaft, bit a decent ruler would probably suffice .

[jimbulsara]

1 hour ago, Ag100 said:

I didn’t have to cut anything, I think you are referring to the shock pistons?, mine seemed to be fine.

The callipers are for setting the distances on the turnbuckles, and also the Slipper shaft, bit a decent ruler would probably suffice .

Thanks dude. I am going to start building the diffs now, and put it all together little by little. I will probably go for that 6150kv motor. 30 + mph on 2s on smallish car looks insane can 't wait.  Told the wife this was for me to build with the kid (7 years old)... 

[Ag100]

1 hour ago, jimbulsara said:

Thanks dude. I am going to start building the diffs now, and put it all together little by little. I will probably go for that 6150kv motor. 30 + mph on 2s on smallish car looks insane can 't wait.  Told the wife this was for me to build with the kid (7 years old)... 

😀that was my excuse to

[jimbulsara]

5 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

😀that was my excuse to

Using that excuse I have gotten a typhon, stampede,  e revo and now this. However I have now told the wife that I am going to get one rc for myself to build. Let’s see if that works out...

[Stormbringer]

its why you have kids so you can buy the toys you want 🤪

[jimbulsara]

On 24/07/2020 at 12:10, Ag100 said:

I have just fitted the Tenshock 6150 from DMS, but have yet to run it, to be fair the Tenshock 4850 it Came with is fast enough, I think it’s just a case of upgrade-itus for me😀

with the 4850 I got had it on grass at 38mph on 3s, so on 2s would still probably be about 30mph, which is plenty with these 

 

lots of people successfully run the Banggood motors with no problems too

 

@Ag100 Have you had a chance to run it on grass? Did it go fast and Did it get too hot?😀

Edited July 25, 2020 by jimbulsara
new info

[Ag100]

41 minutes ago, jimbulsara said:

@Ag100 Have you had a chance to run it on grass? Did it go fast and Did it get too hot?😀

I ran it yesterday, across a field near me nice short grass, flat out and it was great,

it was hot to the touch, but ok. I have also put a heatsink on it, it was plenty quick enough (this was on 2s).

so recommended👍

 

[jimbulsara]

5 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

I ran it yesterday, across a field near me nice short grass, flat out and it was great,

it was hot to the touch, but ok. I have also put a heatsink on it, it was plenty quick enough (this was on 2s).

so recommended👍

 

Good to hear.  I will get a heatsink with fan too. Just wanted to get the motor in.

[Ag100]

16 minutes ago, jimbulsara said:

Good to hear.  I will get a heatsink with fan too. Just wanted to get the motor in.

I had to trim a couple of mm of the heatsink as the wires come out of the side of the case, so worth checking the measurements on which ever you buy.

[jimbulsara]

2 hours ago, Ag100 said:

I had to trim a couple of mm of the heatsink as the wires come out of the side of the case, so worth checking the measurements on which ever you buy.

Just build the diffs. The bearings were a right pain To put in. 
 

[jimbulsara]

On 21/07/2020 at 21:37, silone74 said:

Yes I had 6850kv go running on 2s only, geared down too because it was getting very hot, if you can get hold of the leopard motors snap them up, i have been running a leopard non sensored 2838 5200kv for years and no problems at all and that's been in standard buggy and still in my lwb conversion, i put the blue 2845 5400kv banggood special in my son's buggy and it has held up well and actually performing pretty good geared with stock 60t spur and 18t pinion. 

I still have a new tenshock 6850kv in my spares box.

 

On 23/07/2020 at 12:42, capri-boy said:

 

Sorry for delay.  I try not to run over 50C measured on the outer case, internal temps will be higher.  Hotter and the glue that holds the magnets to the rotor can fail, though each brand will vary.  You need to get pretty hot to demagnatize the magnets... but anecdotally higher temps over time do seem to cause 'wear'.

 

Thumb rule is useful if you don't have a thermometer - if you can't hold your thumb on the case for 5 secs comfortably then it's too hot.  Remember being undergeared can also equate to a hot motor - as your more likely to run it WOT (wide open throttle) - thus it'll spin at higher rpm's.

 

21 hours ago, Ag100 said:

I had to trim a couple of mm of the heatsink as the wires come out of the side of the case, so worth checking the measurements on which ever you buy.

Hi when I turn the input gear inside the housing the differential makes a sort of grinding noise. For 3/4 of the turn is fine then for the last bit it makes that noise and it is slightly harder to turn. I will try attaching a video.

i have cleaned , greased and all and that noise/stiffness is still there.

any tips?

 

[Ag100]

Just check that the diff is in the correct way round, there is. A slot for it in one side only, but you can still get the case screwed down with it the wrong way round, I did this  and it took me a couple of times to realise.

[jimbulsara]

39 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

Just check that the diff is in the correct way round, there is. A slot for it in one side only, but you can still get the case screwed down with it the wrong way round, I did this  and it took me a couple of times to realise.

That’s the thing. It is the right way around. I have no clue what’s up. It is smooth 3/4 of the way... wondering if it just needs to run once

[Stormbringer]

are the diff teeth ok ?

bit grit caught in the teeth ?

i would have another look before its run just to make sure 

[Ag100]

22 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

are the diff teeth ok ?

bit grit caught in the teeth ?

i would have another look before its run just to make sure 

As above, don’t run it like that, they should run smooth.

[jimbulsara]

5 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

As above, don’t run it like that, they should run smooth.

 

28 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

are the diff teeth ok ?

bit grit caught in the teeth ?

i would have another look before its run just to make sure 

It’s definetly something on the teeth. Here is another video the first and last place I rotate is where you can feel the stiffness hear the teeth. The middle place where I turn is smooth. I cleaned the teeth with a toothbrush etc. And still it does this. They spin freely when I put them alone in the casing. But when I put them together there is that bit of a rotation that has that stiffness.

 

[c0sie]

What is your mesh like?