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Shumacher lc racing EMB-1


silone74

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Yea I know just always found cheap adaptors on line before so no need. First time I used ether of these connectors on batteries always deans and traxxas ones before.

Only remembered I had these 2 cell batteries. After I got the lc mt delivered. Must have got them bout two years ago only charged them today.

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The 3.5 bullet in the hobby king adaptor is the same as the one on my esc so it won't work. Gonna have to learn to solder or order some new lipos what ever is cheaper.

I think I have the correct hxt end (from stock nihm) can slap on a male xt60 and post it out ta ya if u want?

postage from germany required but otherwise free ;)

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You need to learn it will be the best thing you do, soldering bullets is the easiest thing i have found for any soldering i use them all the time

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Want to change the connector attached to the esc on car is that gonna be easy to do instead of the ones on my batteries

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Best to change the one on the esc, not many lipos come with the stock lc connector.

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This is the thing been searching 2 s lipos and can't find any with the 3.5 m banana connectors the way it should be on the stock nimh battery which I'm finding odd.

Is this all lc racing rtr or because I got the mt version from Germany starting to pee me off. It seems quite nippy on the stock battery but only tested servo and off ground on full power. What's the run time on the nimh

But bought it because it was brushless

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Might cut off stock battery connector and take it to local car electrical shop and see if he can solder it to the xt60 plug.

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Got a female Xt60 connector on my lipo battery So I need a to find a adaptor lead to fit to my lc mt any one know where I can get one as I don't have a soldering iron .

So I need a xt60 male connector to the connector which will fit onto the esc connector ...... Is it a 3.5 mm size not sure only hand deans and traxxas connector knowledge .

Cheers guys

 

Did you sort this?

 

I can help out if you need, though will end up costing you two lots of postage - no charge for time or an XT60 connector (as got a few spare I dont use)  - alt happy to make you up an adapter from the hxt to xt60 and post it down to you for cost.

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There's nothing wrong with the hxt connector.  It's just most of us are used to using different ones.  I have never been able to buy a rtr and just plug my battery into it.  It's the way of the world an nothing to do with Lc Racing.  Ya local hobby shop will solder an xt60 on for ya, from what I hear in the UK is anything over 5 quid for the job is a complete ripoff.

+++++

Am hoping to get to see the truggy later today :)

 

EDIT:// not happening, truggy was not on the latest shipment and is expected to land late JULY.

Edited by Deafty
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 the XT60 connectors are great. i just put them on my LC SCT and Lipo and charger. i will be changing all my gear to them and even changing all my electronics and LED lamps etc to them. they are so cheap and great quality. nice and positive connection and yet easy to connect and pull apart. all my deans will be going in the bin Deans are sooooooo cheap and nasty by comparison

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Will have to sort my connectors out later on had a little accident last night.

Managed to step on my missius cast iron door stop in the dark. Have a nice inch deep cut on bottom of foot which is now bruised. At A E last night till 4 in morning x Ray . Tetanus jab. But they can't stitch it up because where it is on my sole. So not mobile for couple of days.

Oh and when a doctor puts iodine on a deep cut and warns you it might sting a little. He is understating the little part.

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Will have to sort my connectors out later on had a little accident last night.

Managed to step on my missius cast iron door stop in the dark. Have a nice inch deep cut on bottom of foot which is now bruised. At A E last night till 4 in morning x Ray . Tetanus jab. But they can't stitch it up because where it is on my sole. So not mobile for couple of days.

Oh and when a doctor puts iodine on a deep cut and warns you it might sting a little. He is understating the little part.

I hope the missus recovers quickly from the surgery to remove that door stop from where you inserted it  :shockingscary:

 

 

I also hope you recover quickly dude, sounds like a nasty incident. 

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Cheers fellas feel like a dope but what can I do.

And by the time I got home the doorstop had vanished and she was praising me for not getting any blood on the carpet.

WOMAN !!!

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So I got the new 4 spiral diff set today :)

DSC02347_zpsdsrz5st1.jpg

Only got 1 so I can test it out ;) then get the others if they are good.

DSC02348_zpsy2twwde3.jpg

 

Compared every part in every which way measuring.  The result... nothing changed, except:

  1. Larger cut out in dif case for extra spiral set
  2. Top plastic plate (where a gasket would go) appears different, has either been machined down fine or something else done.  This clearly is an attempt to seal it better.
  3. What appears to be better if not a superior manufactured product.  No burs better tolerances and distinct lips on the casing + lid compared to previous 'not so distinct' lips.   Again an attempt to seal it better
  4. Slightly different coloured metal gears,.perhaps harder material?
  5. Screw hole location changes (they now form a square instead of a rectangle) easier to close too :)
  1. DSC02353_zpszctaie6w.jpg
  2. Very dirty gears from factory (that is not a shadow)

DSC02355_zpsggnxa6zq.jpg

  1. Have not shimmed outdrives which have a little too much slop (identical to old stockers).  Only thing I have done different from what you may do is use green slime on the orings and outdrives as I found the orings are very delicate.  This has worked well on old diffs too.DSC02357_zpsqbbhdrek.jpg
  2. 2nd spiral set obviously on top.
  3. When built dry they were almost locking, notchy to the extreme and binding.  Gently rotated them whilst pulling out on shafts slightly and they became better.  Removed and cleaned again, filled with 3k and closed.
  4. DSC02358_zpspluolova.jpg

The result: :good:

 

  • Feel very good.
  • Not Overly notchy, not butter smooth.   But just seem like they will be after running em in.
  • A significant improvement in diff action.
  • looks and feels like a 1:8 diff but just shrunk and minus a gasket.

Will have to wait till tomorrow for diff leak test.  Filled this one with 3k which leaked in stock built v2.1

 

Ideally I want to run 3k front 2k rear we shall see if this is doable...

Edited by Deafty
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Need any tips for putting carbon fibre wrap on bottom of car to keep the alloy bottom in good nik in case I sell in future. Never done this before any tricks.

Or do you just take chassis off the stick it on then make holes for screws then put it back together or is there a way to do it with out taking it apart. As you can see I have no clue on best way to do it. Seen couple of pics on thread with wraps so thought I ask before making a total bodge job of it .

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