J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Wow, this is like driving a different RC- I would never have thought the wr8 could be better, but I now realise just how slow the OE servo is! Essential WR8 updates (updated ) 1. Bearing kit 2. Better servo! 3.... nothing essential However! On the quick test out front I noticed on two occasions I seemed to loose all power to the motor for a second?- usually when giving the steering some whelly- doughnuts etc I have the 'glitch buster'/capacitor installed (diced and spliced fans together) but even so I fear the built in bec is not up to supplying enough juice! Mike, what GB/capacitor are you running? I'm assuming there are different sizes available? The Racers Edge one that came with the servo easily fits inside RX box- I'd say its about 25mm long x12mm diameter. If it is the esc bec I'm hoping a bigger buster will resolve it, otherwise its an external bec and I really don't fancy that! Fwiw, can anyone recall what the default bec voltage is for the OE flux esc and is it up-able via the Castle Link? I think its 6v and no, but I'll check tomorrow, can't be ar5sed to open RX box again tonight, lol! It'll be a real pity if this requires further mods as its an otherwise awesome upgrade! :S J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Weird, I'm running the racers edge one in mine and I've never run into a problem. I'm also running a different radio system, ESC, motor and fan on mine so there's that... lol. If anything I'd check you splice job... Maybe it's too much juice or interference? I think the default is 5 0r 5.5v. I've upped mine to 6v on all of my escs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hmmm, will check splice by disconnecting fans, but its a proper hard soldered & insulated splice. If the bec voltage is 5-5.5v default then that's encouraging as changing to 6v could just sort it. Tbh, it needs a proper run first to fully evaluate.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I'm confused... What's all this about glitchbusters and capacitors? Are servos not just plug and play??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) The savox metal gear servos sometimes cause glitching so most people run can capacitors when they install them. There isn't always clutching issues though, for example both my RS4s running the sc1251s don't have issues and I don't run caps with them. My WR8 OTOH needed one. Edited August 22, 2014 by Mgozzz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) Its an issue when using high power servos, particularly Savox it seems. Basically the built in ESC BEC (battery elimination circuit) simply can't supply enough power at full load- ie sustained steering at full lock. The result is the servo or sometimes the receiver momentarily drops/browns out- which is what appears to be happening in my case- rx browns out for a second It can also result in erratic behavior, which is similar to signal noise interference (glitching) hence the name 'glitch buster'. These glitch buster' are simply a capacitor that stores power (buffers) and theoretically bridges the gap/deficit in power therefore preventing any issues. I half expected to have to use a GB, but if I have to add an external BEC then I will be disappointed- even though the improvement in steering performance is immense! Just too add, some RC's have better more powerful esc bec's so don't require any further modification- ie true plug & play! As with mikes rs4 Edited August 23, 2014 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Fingers crossed, I 'think' I may have resolved it simply by adjusting the servo end points on the TX. From the before and after vids I did the Savox has much more angle of action- ie throws the servo arm furthur. As well as using more power it was trying to push the steering beyond its limits, therefore using even more juice! I really hope it's sorted, as it's an amazing servo that's made a huge difference to the wr8! An unrelated issue, after installing a new pinion last week (mesh set correctly) it needs adjusting as I now feel it's a bit on the loose side. "No problem" I hear you say, but oh yes it is when one of the crappily soft OE screws rounds off!!! Drill out jobbie, but I don't like the thought of swarf getting into motor shaft and spur!! I could try drilling upside-down, lol Wr8 essential mod #3: upgrade screw set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) I did a bit of fiddling on the WR8 this afternoon. I needed to replace the worn rear a arm so while I had it apart I decided to finally install/upgrade my upper camber links. Previously I've been running the m3x20 steering link turnbuckles and Hpi a318 rod ends. The combo worked ok for the most part but there just wasn't enough of the turnbuckle threading into the rod ends so they would bend whenever I was really rough on the car (such as my last outing with the MT tires). Because I'm cheap I ended up mostly going with parts I had on hand. For rod ends I used the bullet set I had sitting in my parts bin. After a minute or two trimming them down to around 23mm overall length with a razor knife I threaded in a set of the bullet m3.5x25 turnbuckles. These are cheap and they are use on the bullet steering links. The new upper links seem much more stout vs the old setup. There is at least 30% more turnbuckle threaded into the rod ends so they feel way more solid than the last setup too. This is the stock upper link, the m3x20 a318 combo and lastly the m3.5x25 bullet rod end combo. These are the two turnbuckles side by side. And the before: And after: I'll post if I have any issues with the combo but I'm thinking it should be fine. Oh! I also installed a sweet little wire guide. I got it from tekno racing, it tidies up the wires a bit... Way better than zip tying them to the rear body mount! Mike Edited August 23, 2014 by Mgozzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Been running the "bullet rod end combo" ever since I bought the car, no problems. Nice wire guide, looks sharp. Might have to pick one up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Nice. I should have gone that route from the start. I think I didn't because I ordered the wrong turnbuckles originally. The m3 hardware is just too small for the job. I think the guides were around $8 shipped off of eBay. You get 2 sets but it is still pretty expensive for what they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysjim Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 I did a bit of fiddling on the WR8 this afternoon. I needed to replace the worn rear a arm so while I had it apart I decided to finally install/upgrade my upper camber links. Previously I've been running the m3x20 steering link turnbuckles and Hpi a318 rod ends. The combo worked ok for the most part but there just wasn't enough of the turnbuckle threading into the rod ends so they would bend whenever I was really rough on the car (such as my last outing with the MT tires). Because I'm cheap I ended up mostly going with parts I had on hand. For rod ends I used the bullet set I had sitting in my parts bin. After a minute or two trimming them down to around 23mm overall length with a razor knife I threaded in a set of the bullet m3.5x25 turnbuckles. These are cheap and they are use on the bullet steering links. The new upper links seem much more stout vs the old setup. There is at least 30% more turnbuckle threaded into the rod ends so they feel way more solid than the last setup too. This is the stock upper link, the m3x20 a318 combo and lastly the m3.5x25 bullet rod end combo. These are the two turnbuckles side by side. And the before: And after: I'll post if I have any issues with the combo but I'm thinking it should be fine. Oh! I also installed a sweet little wire guide. I got it from tekno racing, it tidies up the wires a bit... Way better than zip tying them to the rear body mount! Mike How do you maintain such a clean model? Lol. Mines clean but yours looks near new! Thanks for the tips. I'm waiting for a load of the standard arms to arrive so I'll have to break them first but will follow suit next time! Very nice cable tidy too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Nice one Mike, and yes, I'd also like to know how you keep it so clean looking! Jim, the OE plastic arms are strong & take some breaking, however the beauty of adjustable is you can dial out any uneven tyre wear, which given the cost and way in which these things go through tyres is a must imo If your tyres are wearing evenly then the rigid OE arms will be fine, esp if you have a few spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Nice one Mike, and yes, I'd also like to know how you keep it so clean looking! Jim, the OE plastic arms are strong & take some breaking, however the beauty of adjustable is you can dial out any uneven tyre wear, which given the cost and way in which these things go through tyres is a must imo If your tyres are wearing evenly then the rigid OE arms will Not sure what Mike does but I use Super Lube Dry Lube. Give your new/ clean kits a coat with this stuff. It repels dirt, your ride will be very easy to clean. This kit should have had adj turnbuckles from the start, it's really absurd they are not standard. Any serious (ie pricey) kit should. This mod is up there with better bearings, IMO. Gotta have them since you can't tune your ride properly without them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) Lol, I just blow it off after using it and then I hit the hard to reach areas with a small toothbrush ;-) The air I use is low pressure (around 40psi at the most) and I take care not to get too close to the fans or bearings (I'll hit those with the toothbrush and a set of tweezers if if needed). Edit- also look closely at my pictures, you can clearly see a nice coating of dirt on the front bulkheads where the hinge pins connect 8-D Edited August 24, 2014 by Mgozzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) BTW What positions are you all using for your upper links? On the front I'm using the upper mount position and the rear the lower. I'm thinking about changing the rear to the upper though because the lower seems to add large amounts of negative camber as the suspension compresses... Which I imagine isn't the best for the tires (and grip) because the chassis squats like a bear in the woods when I'm hard on the throttle. So, pretty much all the time ;-) Thoughts? Edited August 24, 2014 by Mgozzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 A can of compresses air is quick, convenient and portable, but as Mike said, just be careful not to force debris into your bearings. Personally, I "blast out" debris from my fans all the time. Never had to replace one. That being said, I'm waiting on an order of Tornado fans (30x30 and 25x25) to upgrade mine. No heat issues, but I keep hearing how the Tornados are just way more effective than the standard/ stock fans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 BTW What positions are you all using for your upper links? On the front I'm using the upper mount position and the rear the lower. Same, but I'm running low and stiff for on road these days. Not a lot of travel here. She's soooooo dialled...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) Sweet. I had mine setup for onroad for quite awhile. It handles pretty good considering the front kick up on the chassis. For a time I was toying with the idea of flattening out my spare chassis and making a custom upper steering post brace just to see how the car would actually handle onroad if set up properly. I might still give it a shot if I can find a cheap roller ;-) So I tried changing up the rear positions for the upper link. It need to be a bit longer than I anticipated so I'm going to need to find a few more end links and cut them a bit longer than the others so it has enough meat for the turnbuckle. Initially the change is looking pretty good. There is definitely less camber being produced when the suspension compresses. Edited August 24, 2014 by Mgozzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Sweet. I had mine setup for inroad for quite awhile. It handles pretty good considering the front kick up on the chassis. For a time I was toying with the idea of flattening out my spare chassis and making a custom upper steering post brace just to see how the car would actually handle inroad if set up properly. I might still give it a shot if I can find a cheap roller ;-) Might work, not sure about flattening out the stock chassis, maybe that CF chassis we talked about. A longer front drive shaft too, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Sheeeeit... Hotshot888, you are killing me. I think I actually have enough spare parts to assemble a full roller. Fall WR8 onroad project will commence tonight after the children are in bed. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 The front driveshaft is actually the perfect length (I've already spent some time laying thing out...) the only thing that really needs custom bits is the steering post brace. I think I'm going to give this a shot... As for the carbon chassis, it would be a great addition but it is a bit out of my price range at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Step one complete... It came out near perfect lol. To be continued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Ok... The front dog one needs a good 4mm of length added to it. Off to search the parts listings... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 I hear you on the price for 3 mm CF that size. Careful flattening out the stocker, if you tweak it, it's toast. Been thinking about having my spare milled/ slotted out for an on road dedicated chassis, might have to take a shot at this also. The modded brace could be milled from G10 (like the reinforcers I'm sending you) inexpensively. Very tough stuff, much better than the stock plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) Wow! Bit of a rush? Not bad at all. I thought the front drive shaft was going to be short Try a few extra o-rings... Edited August 24, 2014 by Hotshot888 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.