Garry Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 That bit needs adding in, I'll do it soo, but basically a brushless motor is a 3 phase motor. To make it turn, 2 of the 3 phases are ''on'' and one isn't, and the armature rotates towards the ''off'' phase. The ESC can do this in two ways. With a sensored motor, the motor has a hall sensor to know which phases are on or off, and it sends the information to the ESC which then tells the motor the next phase to turn off. This means the motor runs very very smoothly. With a sensorless motor, the ESC sends a pre-set signal to the motor all the time during running. If the armature position is 'caught' between two phase signals, it causes the armature to electronically 'bounce' off of each signal, casuing the stutter. This can be due to high gearing, a poor power source or the quality of the motor. Sensored motors are smoother, sensorless motors are faster as they can handle higher voltages. Some systems can start sensored and then turn off the sensor to get higher RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolas4k Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Hi, what rate should i discharge my NIMH battery pack please? Is it the same as charging i.e. 1C? Its a 8.4V 3000mah pack that came with my Erevo. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 What discharging device do you have? I never noticed a difference in performance by discharging at higher rates with NiMH batteries, other than the pack discharged quicker. As long as the device cuts off around 0.9v per cell, it doesn't matter about the rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Great info. Lots of good advice. I have a question about my charger. It's an old Riko AMP2 model. I have two Nicad packs, one 1600mah (which is virtually useless now I am running a 21t 540 in my Holiday Buggy) and a 2000mah which is old but very effective. When I purchased the Buggy I also bought a Voltz 1800mah pack which I've only recently noticed is a Nimh pack. I therefore didn't put it thru the recommended cycling procedure but it seems to be holding up quite well. Am I ok to continue using my charger or should I upgrade asap? I do want to buy a few more packs with higher mah ratings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Nope, that charger will be NiCD only, so it'll be harming the NIMH pack by using it to charge, shortening the overall lifespan of the pack. This is a great charger without costing loads: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamco-tab6s-50w-multi-charger/rc-car-products/368589 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Cheers Garry. Will invest in this as soon as funds allow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fire Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 good advise my father just got into electric will pass this on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didski Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 OK, so this is worrying! I have 75.87MHz on my CEN Nemesis 7.7 that I imported from the US 4 years ago. I don't race it or bash with others except a small group of friends and family. Do I need to change it or can I continue as I have been? I am getting a Traxxas Slash 4x4 or bashing/racing and using in wider groups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris james Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hi. What amp can I discharge and charge my battery's at my hump pack is 6v 1400mah and my stick packs are 7.2 3300mah they are both nimh. Cheers Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hi. What amp can I discharge and charge my battery's at my hump pack is 6v 1400mah and my stick packs are 7.2 3300mah they are both nimh. Cheers Chris. *Batteries = plural, battery = singular Discharge either at about 1 amp, charge the hump pack at about 500-1000mah / 1amp, the stick pack at ~2-3 amps. Charging at a slightly slower rate will mean they take in more capacity at the expense of a lower peak voltage, though they won't get as hot during charging either which is often a case with a fast(er) charge. ( standard charger rate would eb to match the charge current to the capacity, so 3300mah = 3.3amps charge rate for example, though the little rx batteries are less tolerant of a fast charge like that ). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris james Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Thank you very much suicideneil, I can put them on a cycle now without frying them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris james Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 My charger will let me select the voltage to discharge to what should I set that to ? There listed above. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 My charger will let me select the voltage to discharge to what should I set that to ? There listed above. Cheers Chris *they're = they are 0.9v per cell is a common recommended setting, so easy enough to work out for all of your packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris james Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Lol I'm having grammar lessons to :-) my bad. Mate your a star thank you very much for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StokerGTi Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 (edited) I'm waiting for my HPI Trophy Truggy Flux to come and am wanting to run it on a single 4S battery, reading this has left me totally confused as a noob to the whole hobby. I've read the car comes with 2 connectors to run 2 2s as stock and then i read you can just loop one of the connectors and then run a single 4s battery. Now i have no idea on what type of 4s i need or what charger to charge it with, I'm not wanting to spend a lot of money on a battery really. What does everyone recommend? I've checked the manual online for the Truggy but it only talks about running 2 2s with 25c or better standard? and apparently they have to be hard pack? I'm wanting to just run the 1 4S with the loop. Thanks for any help. Would something like this be suitable? :S http://www.ebay.com/itm/PolyQuest-Lipoly-3000mAH-14-8V-4S1P-Battery-Lipo-20C-40C-With-Deans-Ship-From-US-/320935401274?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item4ab93d973a&_uhb=1 Complete guess. Edited January 28, 2013 by StokerGTi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I'm waiting for my HPI Trophy Truggy Flux to come and am wanting to run it on a single 4S battery, reading this has left me totally confused as a noob to the whole hobby. I've read the car comes with 2 connectors to run 2 2s as stock and then i read you can just loop one of the connectors and then run a single 4s battery. Now i have no idea on what type of 4s i need or what charger to charge it with, I'm not wanting to spend a lot of money on a battery really. What does everyone recommend? I've checked the manual online for the Truggy but it only talks about running 2 2s with 25c or better standard? and apparently they have to be hard pack? I'm wanting to just run the 1 4S with the loop. Thanks for any help. Would something like this be suitable? :S http://www.ebay.com/...b93d973a&_uhb=1 Complete guess. The battery is the fuel of the model- going cheap will not give you very good performance and will leave you feeling disappointed; buy a decent pack to start with and save money in the long run. Question though- is there enough room in the battery trays to fit a single 4s lipo? You may have no choice but to run a pair of 2s lipos unless you want to run without a shell. There is no difference between 2x2s or 1x4s- only a few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StokerGTi Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 (edited) The battery is the fuel of the model- going cheap will not give you very good performance and will leave you feeling disappointed; buy a decent pack to start with and save money in the long run. Question though- is there enough room in the battery trays to fit a single 4s lipo? You may have no choice but to run a pair of 2s lipos unless you want to run without a shell. There is no difference between 2x2s or 1x4s- only a few Edited January 29, 2013 by StokerGTi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Had a lengthy chat with hobbyking live chat and they recommended this setup to me http://www.hobbyking...idProduct=26669 http://www.hobbyking...idProduct=26121 http://www.modelspor...140/9920/992030 I looked through the manual and the maximum battery capacity is 160x51x50 so looks suitable for 4s Looks good- if the battery will fit & you can still get the shell on then it's fine- some models are a tighter squeeze than others. Make sure you have a decent hot iron ( ~60watts+ ) with a fat tip to solder the Deans connectors though, makes life much easier. As for the esc connector issue- just make a jumper connector with a single female plug & a short bit of wire to short the pins, then stick that on either connector on the esc, and the batt on the other. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StokerGTi Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 (edited) Looks good- if the battery will fit & you can still get the shell on then it's fine- some models are a tighter squeeze than others. Make sure you have a decent hot iron ( ~60watts+ ) with a fat tip to solder the Deans connectors though, makes life much easier. As for the esc connector issue- just make a jumper connector with a single female plug & a short bit of wire to short the pins, then stick that on either connector on the esc, and the batt on the other. http://www.modelspor...products/365977 Was going to buy that to solve the problem you're talking about. Edited January 29, 2013 by StokerGTi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 http://www.modelspor...products/365977 Was going to buy that to solve the problem you're talking about. Yup, that'll do the trick nicely. Then again, you're buying ten male & female connectors already- you won't be using all of them, so why not save Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StokerGTi Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Yup, that'll do the trick nicely. Then again, you're buying ten male & female connectors already- you won't be using all of them, so why not save Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Been recommended 2 chargers, one being the one you recommended to me (Core RC UAC50 Charger) and the other being the one hobby king live chat recommended to me http://www.hobbyking...6478&aff=828855 (IMAX B6) Both look good but the IMAX is cheaper, could do with your opinion yet again mate lol. Cheers for all this help almost ready to start having some fun There are dozens of variants of these cheap(er) Chinese chargers, most do pretty much the same thing / same specs as the stuff you can get in UK stores. The advantage of the Core charger is the UK warranty you get from modelsport if it goes wrong; you have pretty much no come back with hobbyking, especially if you buy from an overseas warehouse ( UK warehouse may be better, if they stock what you want ). I know saving money is always the name of the game, but sometimes it's worth the extra tenner or so to get things from closer to home ( quicker postage, cheaper postage & UK warranty ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petercarp1976 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 This was amazing info and as a complete novice to the whole rc game this was exactly what I needed to read. Thanks so much for spending so much time putting it together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsYORuncle Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Hi, I'm new to this so bear with me, please could someone help me: I have just brought a Uac-50 Charger and have charged some: Enrich power 4600 7.2v (stic pack 6cell) batteries. When I charged them they were fine till near the end of the charging the became extremely hot? Is this right? Charged on: Nimh, 4.6A, charge cut off time: 85mins, delta peak cut off: default (7mv). They took 63.3 mins to charge? Please could some one tell me if this is correct, because I don't want to fry my batteries. Thanks. Are my settings correct too please? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suicideneil Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Hi, I'm new to this so bear with me, please could someone help me: I have just brought a Uac-50 Charger and have charged some: Enrich power 4600 7.2v (stic pack 6cell) batteries. When I charged them they were fine till near the end of the charging the became extremely hot? Is this right? Charged on: Nimh, 4.6A, charge cut off time: 85mins, delta peak cut off: default (7mv). They took 63.3 mins to charge? Please could some one tell me if this is correct, because I don't want to fry my batteries. Thanks. Are my settings correct too please? Thanks That is fairly normal behaviour for nimhs really, but yeah, ideally they should only be 'quite warm' at the end of the charge. I would suggest lowering the delta peak setting a notch, that way the charge will end a little sooner and the batts should not be as hot ( famous last words ). Charge time and settings are correct pretty much, though it never hurts to charge nimhs a little slower ( lower charge current )- a slower charge lets them hold more of their rated capacity but with a lower peak voltage, a faster charge means they hold less capacity but have a higher voltage straight off the charger. Depends if you need more speed for less time or viceversa- for just general bashing and not racing, I'd opt for a longer charge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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