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Incomplete combustion?


Ziggy122

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Hey

Can nitro engines do incomplete combustion?? or does that make it stall??

I mean, underneath my piston there was tones of carb stuck there

Easily 1 - 2g of the stuff

And could this contribute to engines running hot??

If so, what can you do to clear the engine of this??

Ziggy

(Sorry just realised that i wasnt in Nitro general)

Edited by Ziggy122
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Jees you really need to sort out your tuning, engines should be sparkly clean...possible some scorch marks on the piston head but nothing else

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his engine is now dead and he is rebuilding it :P:lol: a bit pricey too :o

i aggree with both the above, should be squeaky clean although that doesnt answer the question, as you told me ziggy i think it is a bi product/waste product of alkenes/alkanes so maybe there is the answer, it is possible for incomplete combustion as it will just be running rich and squirting unburnt fuel on the floor out of the exhaust like when running engines in on factory settings

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engines should be sparkly clean...possible some scorch marks on the piston head but nothing else

Not always, i had a mach .26 and it looked like this:

dscn09571hq1so.jpg

And i think we can all agree that looks like a waste! However i posted this picture up on LSTCentral and asked one of the guys. "MAXXED" guy who does know his stuff quite well came back and said this:

yo,

Don't worry, that's pretty normal.

The Taiwan motors use a lower grade alloy that rusts easily.

The Mach falls in that category.

My OFNA Hyper .21 looked worse than that after a gallon.

The Italian motors use a higher grade alloy that is very resistant to rusting and corrosion.

My RB C4 has no rust on the crank after years of having it.

However, I would use after run oil to neutralize the acids from the nitro and keep moisture from building up in the crankcase during storage.

So anyways i listened to him, dropped some after run oil while rebuilding the whole thing, and it popped into life in around 2 pulls of the pullstart (only took apart to replace from rotostart to pullstart). Also ran very strong for another 20-30 tanks before i sold it.

However ziggy, just get a new engine! The one which your trying to fix sounds completly stuffed. Place all the bits into a bag and shove it into your toolbox and foget bought it :lol:

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his engine is now dead and he is rebuilding it :P:lol: a bit pricey too :o

i aggree with both the above, should be squeaky clean although that doesnt answer the question, as you told me ziggy i think it is a bi product/waste product of alkenes/alkanes so maybe there is the answer, it is possible for incomplete combustion as it will just be running rich and squirting unburnt fuel on the floor out of the exhaust like when running engines in on factory settings

Facotry settings... lol there a pain, the car hardly runs, just stalls

But it could be just oil or sumet underneath, it just look gunky and powdery

So far engines all in pieces :(

But parts are on there way :D :D

Ziggy

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Facotry settings... lol there a pain, the car hardly runs, just stalls

on my rush, it was the servo horns on the throttle servo, still don't know how to fix it.

does it accelerate away after you apply the brakes and let it idle??

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on my rush, it was the servo horns on the throttle servo, still don't know how to fix it.

does it accelerate away after you apply the brakes and let it idle??

Yes it DID

Was continually pushing the acc horn to make rev's drop again

I found that either ur servo horns were too tight

or they aren't gripping properly (worn basically)

I found replacing them made a HUGE difference

It stops that little fumberling problem

I used the same return spring on my old horns on the new set

Ignore people with the throttle mod, the return is just been an [CENSORED], just take it off and play with it to weaken it a tad

Infact i got a vid of the servo's working properly

CLICKY!!!

it goes brake brake acc acc brake brake acc acc

The throttle shouldnt move at all when braking or idling

hope this helps

Ziggy

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Nooo my crank + Crank case looks Nothing like that

Its still shiny! Pretty much like new!

Here is my piston

piston9la.th.jpg

Sorry even with a light shining into it, u cant see the bottom cause of the stuff inside of it

The piston is pretty clean still, just scorced top from the glowplug and under of course :unsure:

Inside liner is still clear but / \ shape

And the outside of it has gone rather goldy coloured like the exhaust (got hot several times)

Ziggy

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No the throttle mod isnt compete crap, trust me when you have actually been in the hobby more then five mins, THEN i think you can start to tell people whats good and whats not. The stock linkages suck FACT

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why spend £11 on sumet, that can be solved by "playing" with the return spring to slacken it up

The stock linkage is perfectly fine, just gotta have a great amount of time

As u say by the vid i posted earlier, they worked fine, untill i tightened up the screw too much and basically ate the horns

its a case of opions, wat u say may work / not and wat i say may /not work

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No the throttle mod isnt compete crap, trust me when you have actually been in the hobby more then five mins, THEN i think you can start to tell people whats good and whats not. The stock linkages suck FACT

Hounestly Pal....what is your problem? It seems that every post that you reply to has a sarcastic tone. I am not wanting this to degenerate down to a slanging match but your tone in EVERY post is awfull.

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I think also you will find that none of the "older" members have a problem with me its just "cirtain" newer members get on my nerves, not you though so all is good. But lets not turn this into a slagging match.

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