Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


Recommended Posts

Just for future notice. I am weak and I did it without needle nose pliars. The technique in my case was simple. Using the tips of the e clip, I pushed down the spring and then slid the e clip in.  I don't know if they made the spring stronger now. So I don't know if it still works. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

right forgot i even had this account so hello again,
i have refound my car and got back into this again and now i have a job so i can fund mu addiction so to keep it short what parts do you guys recommend i upgrade, i have a hardened spur and pinon, upgraded from brushed to brusheles (used the motor and esc that comes stock with that brushless version)  and the wheelie bar (dont bother mine bent after a week).
im thinking of getting the carbon shock plates but keeping the plastic body mounts the mounts  cost like £2 to replace and they should brake before the plates, is this a good idea?

andddd one last thing, i got myself a gopro for my mountain biking and i want to mount it to the truck, how do you guys do that, i would rather have it mounted to the frame not the body as that would give smoother footage and also i dont have a body.

edit: looking for new wheels and tires, stock ones are good but the foam getting filled with water sucks so what do you use? 

car is used for bashing manly on dirt paths, which are often wet due to the wonderful British weather 

Edited by The FTX Lad
forgot stuff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@The FTX Lad can't help you much on your questions I am afraid, but interested in anyone else who responds on the gopro question, fancy doing the same myself, perhaps the front bumper (although it will be quite exposed).

 

I have done my first mod (starting small), sway bars fitted to the carnage!

20200310_202906.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@The FTX Lad pah that is not bad at all, although got a bit more shaky when you started to get up to speed!

 

Clear windows sounds good, what shell are you using on it?

 

I like the idea of FPV, but shying away for now, but if I can get that going could kill two birds with one stone

 

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, RCJC said:

@The FTX Lad pah that is not bad at all, although got a bit more shaky when you started to get up to speed!

 

Clear windows sounds good, what shell are you using on it?

 

I like the idea of FPV, but shying away for now, but if I can get that going could kill two birds with one stone

 

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

im using bought this body https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-1966-ford-f-100-clear-body-1-10/rc-car-products/380477
and if you use a newer gopro they have rather good image stabilization which should take the shakes out the footage 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/02/2020 at 20:24, RCJC said:

@IKZ4 hmmm interesting, i need to brave stripping it down next and see what is in mine.

Why is it open, is it for cooling? If so, I wonder whether trying to tape it up with some mesh tape might be best, I am thinking the sort of semi perforated medical tape.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

 

On 18/02/2020 at 19:58, IKZ4 said:

Exactly right. I also taped up the centre chassis brace above the slipper to minimise stuff falling in. I've not had a good look since but there must be another route in, or my dealing isn't sufficient

Trying to seal off the spur gear is a pain in the arse. It seems expensive when the plastic ones are only about £3 each, but swapping to a steel spur and pinion (about £20) will solve it. They eat gravel for breakfast and run quieter too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 02/03/2020 at 06:12, zlab said:

there are 2 possible problems with that.

First is, that when you pit it on it must be oriented correctlly, otherwise it may bind into the top plate when you turn and push it off. Check with your top plate on.

 

Other problem may be that the plastic is torn around the groove. This is a very bad design, looks loke an engineering joke. You must change the servosaver, but it will happen again soon. I changed 3 of them and then finally decided to make it better. You can see on previous pages, i made the servo saver one rigid part and inserted a bearing there for the elimination of freeplay in steering. I am using a direct mount servo saver to protect the servo.

It works perfectly, no more problems with that since the modification.

I did the same but replaced the plastic servo saver for a metal part from an HPI bullet. Fits straight in and comes with bearings.

warning for vantage owners though, a servo mounted servo saver won’t fit under the shell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Fat Freddy hear you on the metal spur and pinion upgrade ... it does sound a better idea than trying to seal things up .... but .... one of the things I have read on here is to choose carefully which bits to upgrade to metal as you pass the stress down to another, potentially more expensive, component, so if I go to metal spur, what circumstances could have stripped a plastic one, that could no longer strip a metal one, and what component may fail instead (hope that makes sense)?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[mention=44174]RCJC[/mention] i belive if you have the slipper clutch set up right it should not be a problem, also to stop stripping stuff gradually apply the gas dont just wack it on 100% straight away 
Makes total sense, as the slipper clutch is the protection for the motor isn't it!

I see what you say about gassing it gently, certainly a technique I could teach myself, more of a challenge with the kids, but worthwhile.

At present I havent had any issues with the spur, but am conscious to get in there and clear it out after every few outings/particularly gritty outing.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am on the lookout for a second ftx carnage as we are enjoying this one but with a family of six it takes ages for everyone to have a turn!

I dont want to spend much, ideally £60 ish, but as my knowledge is growing I could cope with it requiring a few bits doing to it (albeit running would be preferable so I know there are no major issues).

If anyone hears of anything in the bristol or surrounding areas, please give me a shout, not sure where to look other than facebook marketplace at the moment and not having much luck!

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive been thinking and i think it is time i moved on from the carnage, i kinda regret spending so much on parts last week when if i saved that money i would have been to an arrma outcast 4s, the carnage was a fine car for what it was but i feel like i have outgrown this truck and i dont feel like its worth upgrading this truck to keep up as i dont trust the spur the changing the spur every few runs is really what did it for me.
its been real guys, im probs going to keep my carnage as it still works and i have a bunch of spare parts for it and it will make a decent lender truck.

god speed and happy driving 

Edited by The FTX Lad
:)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have an Etronix Pulse transmitter, which we use rechargeable AA batteries to power. The transmitter has a charging jack, which would be easier to use rather than having to take out and charge 8 batteries every time.

 

Does anyone know what type of charger to plug into the jack?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have an Etronix Pulse transmitter, which we use rechargeable AA batteries to power. The transmitter has a charging jack, which would be easier to use rather than having to take out and charge 8 batteries every time.
 
Does anyone know what type of charger to plug into the jack?
Manual only says 5mm centre positive

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, sorry to be a noob, but some advice please people.

It is my perception (no facts) that my steering on my carnage has become way weaker/ not that effective.

Before I posted this, I noticed I had lost my my e clip off my servo saver, so waited until I replaced that before seeing if the issue persisted.



This is a quick and hopefully effective diagnostic vid. The steering on a smooth-ish surface is ineffective until throttle relieves the resistance.

I am sure when I first got it, it would steer at a standstill without issue. But now, something needs to be sapping the power of the servo, or indeed perhaps the servo has failed.

If there is no resistance (held in the air), all steering appears perfect.

When I was bashing on the weekend, the kids and I experienced that steering left was fairly ineffective and weak.

So .... please could you experienced people help me diagnose the issue. I have tried to make sure all joints in the steering assembly move freely, but the servo saver seems or has seemed a questionable part, but also, as I am a noob, maybe i have rogered my servo and dont realise it, how would I know?

Any pair diagnostics (as in pair programming) or hints and tips for the next stage of diagnostics would be very much appreciated.

Jon

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know the vid doesnt show much, but it does demonstrate that steering is completely ineffective until throttle releases the friction resistance

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I right in thinking that the e clip is now in place?

This is quite typical of the Carnage. It annoyed me at first but then realised that when rolling it didn’t cause any real issues.

 

The clip is a pain. Mine always came out until I superglued it back in. It never came out after. Be careful if you do though as the glue ran down and locked the servo saver killing my servo. Glue it in while holding everything upside down to prevent the glue running down.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/03/2020 at 21:01, RCJC said:

@Fat Freddy hear you on the metal spur and pinion upgrade ... it does sound a better idea than trying to seal things up .... but .... one of the things I have read on here is to choose carefully which bits to upgrade to metal as you pass the stress down to another, potentially more expensive, component, so if I go to metal spur, what circumstances could have stripped a plastic one, that could no longer strip a metal one, and what component may fail instead (hope that makes sense)?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

I think when folk are warning against metal components is more usually the shock towers/suspension arms. As well as being more rigid and passing the shocks along to other components, once bent, they're pretty useless. Very hard to get em back in shape and expensive to replace Vs plastic parts.

With the spur, you are protected by yr slipper clutch. 

Although, if you get a steel spur, get a steel pinion too. The metal spur will eat through a brass pinion pretty quick.

I had to change 3 plastic spurs in a matter of weeks (it's very gravelly where I use it), and I'd found it hard to get the mesh right.

Not had a single issue in 6 months since switching and meshing spur/pinion is way easier.

Agree with others about alloy parts except for suspension arm holders, they seem to be fit and forget, just like the steel spur.

Carbon top plate a good upgrade too.

If you go for carbon shock towers, avoid the vantage pro version, they have all the same cut outs as the plastic towers, are very light but fragile and will snap. Standard carbon towers less pretty but tough as old boots.

Edited by Fat Freddy
Spelling correction
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/03/2020 at 09:08, The FTX Lad said:

@Fat Freddyyou have any links to the metal spur and servo bits, while im upgrading i might as well spend all my money 

Sorry for late reply fella, message @daveyboi73 on here. He's the man for steel spurs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...