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RCJC

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Everything posted by RCJC

  1. Hugo Push back, demand your rights! You know it isn't good enough so stand your ground! Changing the motor if you need to isn't hard, I am a newbie and did it, hit me up for info/experience, can vid call if needed. But I feel you shouldn't have to spend the £8/£10 to replace brushed at this stage. Jon Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  2. Welcome Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  3. It is great!! Not even looked at creating my own shell, but that inspires me!! What is the base shell for this? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  4. Diagnosis complete on my Carnage. The hobbywing ESC was delivered a few days before the motor, and a quick basic connection proved that the ESC was not at fault for my issue, it behaved the same as the stock ESC. When the nee motor arrived I was nervous, but connected it up to the original ESC and got my startup tones, and then it powered. So my issue was the motor. A learning point for me in this is that the motor emits the startup tones, so if your ESC seems to be behaving correctly and showing the right lights, but no tones, there is a good chance it is the motor that has gone. Second lesson, keep a motor in your spares kit. As I was re-assembling, I decided to put the hobbywing ESC in (following recommendations) and keep the stock one as a spare. And of course this is the first time I have tried to mesh a pinion! Initial findings are mixed. First up, there is a whining noise especially prominent on forward power at very low power levels, maybe just a beeding in issue, and hopefully not me getting the meshing wrong. Secondly, in testing, motor action stopped several times with a slow flashing light on the hobbywing ESC until I restarted the ESC. I think this is probably because I was using the stock 1800 nimh in LIPO mode, it happened a lot less in NIMH mode, but I was hoping I could get away with leaving it on lipo mode as i dont want to forget to change it sometime. I will test it properly when I can leave the house, but for now it *seems* to be fixed. Thanks for all the help from the forum on sorting this. Any thoughts on my initial findings much appreciated. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  5. Agree, as long as you are walking with it, or perhaps running if you see blue lights (sorry), and avoiding others it should be ok. Only danger is that, like recently, masses will do it! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  6. I am on my fourth e clip, now it has come out once I just keep losing them! I have ordered a new servo saver and will glue mine before installing into the car! From my experience, when you lose the e clip, steering goes to **it, and the servo saver constantly activates under normal steering conditions Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  7. Super, that aligns to my understanding with my current setup, looking forward to getting the parts in and tinkering now Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  8. At the moment I run both nimh and lipo battery, do i need to change settings for each (I.e. should I stick to lipo)? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  9. I have ordered a replacement stock motor and the hobby king esc recommended by@Nickarla so hopefully will be able to diagnose and solve Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  10. That's really helpful@Nickarla thank you! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  11. @Nickarla if I am spending money replacing ESC, do you think I should consider going to brushless? Also, if I go for that hobby wing one would it work with my current transmitter and motor Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  12. Ok So, could do with some diagnostic pointers on this one. Out for a run today, burned my way through my 4500 NIMH and moved on to my 7200 2S LIPO, was having a generally good run, few bumps and tumbles but nothing crazy, was all on dry short grass. I took a break for a while, drove the car forward about 2 metres and then all of a sudden it lost power (drive). Steering good, and all looks ok, but no drive or reverse. Chucked the stock 1800 NIMH in there for the sake of going back to basics. Attempted to bind the controller again, but no joy. There are NO TONES when starting up the car which is odd, it always plays its little tune normally. The lights seem to be flashing on the ESC as usual. The lights on the ESC also react to my applying throttle or reverse, but there is Zero power (and zero attempt to power) from the motor. Little diagnostic youtube here: So ... I am guessing it is either motor or ESC. Is there any way to determine which? If it is motor, no bother, I can grab one for < £10. If it is ESC, then that is closer to £30, which is at the price point where I would consider looking to go brushless if I can find a system at the right price. Any / all help appreciated, I know you guys know this stuff so much better than I do yet. Jon
  13. @Charlie007 no idea on this one really, I know reverse on my carnage seems really hit and miss, but that is something to do with it needing to be at a stop before reverse will engage
  14. My FTX carnage died mid run today, just lost power with not warning, diagnostics in the field show that I still have steering, but no throttle or reverse. Power getting to ESC as light reacts to controller. No little tune when I turn the car on though. Time to figure out how to diagnose a power/motor issue!? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  15. I know the vid doesnt show much, but it does demonstrate that steering is completely ineffective until throttle releases the friction resistance Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  16. Ok, sorry to be a noob, but some advice please people. It is my perception (no facts) that my steering on my carnage has become way weaker/ not that effective. Before I posted this, I noticed I had lost my my e clip off my servo saver, so waited until I replaced that before seeing if the issue persisted. This is a quick and hopefully effective diagnostic vid. The steering on a smooth-ish surface is ineffective until throttle relieves the resistance. I am sure when I first got it, it would steer at a standstill without issue. But now, something needs to be sapping the power of the servo, or indeed perhaps the servo has failed. If there is no resistance (held in the air), all steering appears perfect. When I was bashing on the weekend, the kids and I experienced that steering left was fairly ineffective and weak. So .... please could you experienced people help me diagnose the issue. I have tried to make sure all joints in the steering assembly move freely, but the servo saver seems or has seemed a questionable part, but also, as I am a noob, maybe i have rogered my servo and dont realise it, how would I know? Any pair diagnostics (as in pair programming) or hints and tips for the next stage of diagnostics would be very much appreciated. Jon Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  17. You almost read my mind!! Can I add to that question, what or where do you get decent hex bits to go in them also? @tamiyafanboy I was looking at the cheapest one in B&Q yesterday, I think it was MacAllister at about £20, it looked good on the shelf, only downside was it had a barrel plug charger whereas the next model up had micro USB which seemed easier/more available. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  18. Manual only says 5mm centre positive Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  19. @The FTX Lad be interesting to hear how you enjoy the arma outcast Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  20. I am on the lookout for a second ftx carnage as we are enjoying this one but with a family of six it takes ages for everyone to have a turn! I dont want to spend much, ideally £60 ish, but as my knowledge is growing I could cope with it requiring a few bits doing to it (albeit running would be preferable so I know there are no major issues). If anyone hears of anything in the bristol or surrounding areas, please give me a shout, not sure where to look other than facebook marketplace at the moment and not having much luck! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  21. Makes total sense, as the slipper clutch is the protection for the motor isn't it! I see what you say about gassing it gently, certainly a technique I could teach myself, more of a challenge with the kids, but worthwhile. At present I havent had any issues with the spur, but am conscious to get in there and clear it out after every few outings/particularly gritty outing. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  22. @Fat Freddy hear you on the metal spur and pinion upgrade ... it does sound a better idea than trying to seal things up .... but .... one of the things I have read on here is to choose carefully which bits to upgrade to metal as you pass the stress down to another, potentially more expensive, component, so if I go to metal spur, what circumstances could have stripped a plastic one, that could no longer strip a metal one, and what component may fail instead (hope that makes sense)? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  23. @The FTX Lad pah that is not bad at all, although got a bit more shaky when you started to get up to speed! Clear windows sounds good, what shell are you using on it? I like the idea of FPV, but shying away for now, but if I can get that going could kill two birds with one stone Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  24. @The FTX Lad can't help you much on your questions I am afraid, but interested in anyone else who responds on the gopro question, fancy doing the same myself, perhaps the front bumper (although it will be quite exposed). I have done my first mod (starting small), sway bars fitted to the carnage!
  25. Although few minute of testing and the e clip has popped out again!! Annoying. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
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