Smifdog Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Hi, new Carnage brushed owner here & new to the hobby in general. Seeking advice on something I read in the manual. To cut a long story short it says theres a crawl or crawler mode I can access by holding a button down on the radio receiver jobby until it beeps twice and the LED is lit up and not flashing? Tried this but can't see a difference in performance. What does it mean? Thanks 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 On 26/09/2019 at 11:47, Addwhite said: Thats quite a quick rc to be bashing around the house 😂... If you hit a lot of solid objects those parts will break. Where as just general crashes and flips when your out in a large open space these things hold up pretty well. I flip mine a lot at high speeds and the only thing that suffers is mainly the body. As far as im aware there is not a lot you can do about the front cvd shafts. They do bend though, so maybe someone else may know of something you can try, and at £10+ a pair i know replacing those gets annoying after a while. As for wheels i have tried quite a lot. I had great results with the fastrax Rr block tyres all round. Part no. Fast0033 they performe great on grass and dirt. Not sure how long they would last on tarmac as they are studds. Harder compound and inserts than the stock carnage wheels so do not really balloon. Much stronger hex's tho. For rougher terrain i would stick with the carnage wheels or similar. Any 12mm hex wheels should fit. All depends what surface you mainly run on. those tyres look good, how much is the diameter? are they the same size as the original ones? I was very happy, as now it has been almost a week without breaking or bending anything...until today... I did quite a big jump with a very bad landing with crash... The result? -chassis broken (between the motor mount and rear diff) 🙁 -damaged spur gear -bended slipper shaft -lost plastic piece that holds the slipper bearing -damaged central driveshaft -broken spur dust cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 Do you have the carbon upper chassis plate? It makes a huge difference to the main chassis rigidity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 On 30/09/2019 at 20:42, zlab said: those tyres look good, how much is the diameter? are they the same size as the original ones? I was very happy, as now it has been almost a week without breaking or bending anything...until today... I did quite a big jump with a very bad landing with crash... The result? -chassis broken (between the motor mount and rear diff) 🙁 -damaged spur gear -bended slipper shaft -lost plastic piece that holds the slipper bearing -damaged central driveshaft -broken spur dust cover They are about 10mm less in diameter. The wheel rims are the same size, just the wall of the tyers thats smaller. You can always go up a tooth or two on pinion size to make up the difference. As PH001 Says, the carbon top plate is well worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 When i was ordering parts for the last damage i allready had the carbon plate in the basket, but then i realised that with carbon upper plate there is no more spur cover... As i drive mostly on gravel i think that the spur gear will quckly get damaged from the little rocks catching between the gears... Am I wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Freddy Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Not wrong but tbh the gear cover still let's small stones in. My advice is ask @daveyboi73 to sell you a hardened steel spur. For and forget, easier to set gear mesh, quieter and eats small stones for breakfast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Well i had this in my plan, but then said to myself that the plastic spur gear maybe isn't that bad... Especially because i like to have one cheap weak point in the drivetrain. At 2,7€ a piece i really don't mind changing it from time to time, but of course not everyday 😁 well, while waiting for the broken parts, i decided to do a complete strip down and cleaning. Yesterday i started with the rear end and was very happy to see that all the gears are in great condition. Will replace all the bearings and damaged bolts... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 So last night i stripped down my vandal roller to fit the aluminium arm holders. When i did i noticed that the rear diff (in the diff case) was binding tight at a certain point of rotation when i checked the shims it had 4 on the non ring gear side and 2 on the ring gear side. These have not been adjusted since factory fitting. The only way i could get it to spin without binding was to have just one on the ring gear side and four on the other. Now it free spins the same as the front. Just wonderd if anyone else has had any similar issues? I just hope the gear mesh is now not too loose.... I can only assume maybe the diff case is slightly out of line or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 It is necessary to rebuild the diffs when you get the car. I was suprissed how badly it was assembled... Dissasemble, clean the old grease out and use some quality grease. I even had to order additional set of shims, as there was to much play left to right... I did some more work today, rebuilding the car, while waiting for the parts to arrive. Front end completelly rebuilded, diff regreased, gear mash readjusted and bearings replaced. All 4 shocks rebuilded with new o rings and also new shafts and pistons for the fronts... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 8 minutes ago, zlab said: It is necessary to rebuild the diffs when you get the car. I was suprissed how badly it was assembled... Dissasemble, clean the old grease out and use some quality grease. I even had to order additional set of shims, as there was to much play left to right... I did some more work today, rebuilding the car, while waiting for the parts to arrive. Front end completelly rebuilded, diff regreased, gear mash readjusted and bearings replaced. All 4 shocks rebuilded with new o rings and also new shafts and pistons for the fronts... All looks nice 👍 how many shims did you use on each side of your diffs front and rear? I think i will order a new case for the rear as im not happy with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Uh i really didnt count them, but i know i added one on the front diff and two on the rear. It is different from diff to diff, you must really set it up individually... If it is not running straight than you have the problem on the diff bell, did you rebuild the diff? Are those four small screws tightened equally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, zlab said: Uh i really didnt count them, but i know i added one on the front diff and two on the rear. It is different from diff to diff, you must really set it up individually... If it is not running straight than you have the problem on the diff bell, did you rebuild the diff? Are those four small screws tightened equally? The diff installed was brand new as the car has never been run. I tried a spare new diff but the same result. I did re-grease it though. May have to strip it down completely and try and work out whats causing the resistance. Any more than one shim on the crown gear side and its too tight. No i didnt look at those screws you mentioned. I will do that too. Just checked those screws. They all seem tight and the gear seems to sit level. The problem seems to be when i screw the diff case back together. It could just need a couple of runs to bed in as all the gears are new. Im guessing after a couple of runs things may back off a little bit and loosen up. So will give it a run then check it again. I have orderd a replacement diff case to try if not. Edited October 6, 2019 by Addwhite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 (edited) Just another quick question for everyone, shock assembly.... The manual clearly shows that the two orange o rings (ftx6510) have the black plastic spacer between them. Yet every ftx shock and quanum vandal shock that i have taken apart has the two orange o rings together with the black plastic spacer underneath. Also the re build kit has some shim washers in the pack.... Not sure where these go... Mine never had them. So if anyone knows the correct sequence for the 2 orings plastic spacer and washer i would appreciate it. Im guessing it should go: O ring Plastic washer O ring Shim washer at the bottom... Please correct me if im wrong 😕 Edited October 6, 2019 by Addwhite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) Funny, i had the same problem... at the end i assembled them the way you described, as it seemed more logical. They run very smooth on the table, we will see when the car is assembled... Those metal shims...on mine, there was one on the first front shock an two on the second, and no shims on the rear shocks 🤔 Edited October 7, 2019 by zlab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintin Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 On 20/08/2019 at 17:47, Fat Freddy said: I painted my very first custom shell...... mistakes were made and it’s far from perfect, but personally I think it’s an improvement on the stock blue shell. Looks great mate! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin"s Dad Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 Thanks for everyone's advice on fixing the issue with wheels, I swapped the hex for aluminium ones and put on new wheel nuts, held with lactate, and we're back in business. One thing I wanted too check is that even out of the box the wheel set up has never looked quite right. The front wheels seem to 'toe out' (one more than the other), the rear wheels seem to 'toe in'. This might be how it's supposed to be but looks a bit odd. Does anyone have any advice on setting the wheels up properly? I've also noticed a couple of the wheels look like they are buckled, when running they wobble a bit. Is that likely to be the wheels, or does that indicate we've bent something like drive shafts. Lastly, any advice on what bits we should be oiling/greasing and how often. Many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 8 hours ago, Austin"s Dad said: Thanks for everyone's advice on fixing the issue with wheels, I swapped the hex for aluminium ones and put on new wheel nuts, held with lactate, and we're back in business. One thing I wanted too check is that even out of the box the wheel set up has never looked quite right. The front wheels seem to 'toe out' (one more than the other), the rear wheels seem to 'toe in'. This might be how it's supposed to be but looks a bit odd. Does anyone have any advice on setting the wheels up properly? I've also noticed a couple of the wheels look like they are buckled, when running they wobble a bit. Is that likely to be the wheels, or does that indicate we've bent something like drive shafts. Lastly, any advice on what bits we should be oiling/greasing and how often. Many thanks! Toe in on the rear is correct. Its best to have a little toe out on the front. It helps with cornering. The carnage normally comes with a little toe out at the front from factory setting. If one side is more than the other you can easily set it the same by turning the steering turnbukles. Sometimes if you have a crash the turnbuckle rod can push into the plastic rod end. Just measure the distance between the two black plastic rod ends on each side and set each side the same then you can just tweek each side the same amount of turns to set your toe out. You dont need much. Wheel wobble is quite common with the standard carnage wheels. Could just be the way the tyre is glued or the wheel itself may be a little bit bent. I wouldnt worry too much about that. The front cvd shafts can bend quite easily. Just hold the car in your hand and apply a little throttle. You will be able to see if one is bent. Same with the rear dog bones. Good idea to replace a bent shaft if that is the problem. The car will still run ok, but it causes a lot of vibration. Sometimes you can take them out and get them quite straight in a vice. The only thing i grease now and again is the diff ring gears. And when i rebuild a diff i check the gears inside the housing too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 Today i finally got the parts that i was waiting for. Of course it was impossible to leave them in the bags until tomorrow 😁 New chassis, slipper shaft, slipper pads, spur gear, pinion gear, center driveshaft, center driveshaft cups, a lot of new bolts, new bearings... Whole car stripped to the last bolt and rebuilded... Ran out of two bearings 5x10x4, as you can see on the picture, will replace them when they arrive... The car is now RTBA (Ready To Break Again) 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 4 hours ago, zlab said: Today i finally got the parts that i was waiting for. Of course it was impossible to leave them in the bags until tomorrow 😁 New chassis, slipper shaft, slipper pads, spur gear, pinion gear, center driveshaft, center driveshaft cups, a lot of new bolts, new bearings... Whole car stripped to the last bolt and rebuilded... Ran out of two bearings 5x10x4, as you can see on the picture, will replace them when they arrive... The car is now RTBA (Ready To Break Again) 😂 Looks great 👍 nice and tidy. I see you are using rubber sealed bearings. How do you find they perform over the metal sealed bearings? I was thinking of trying those as i keep blowing the metal case ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 I really can't look at the ZZ bearings there, without any additional dust protection. I am kind a allergic to that 😁 Metal enclosed bearings have absolutelly no protection against the dust, as the rubber ones do offer some of it... I am sure they will last longer especially on positions where they dont take any hits (diffs and slipper clutch bearing). On the wheels i know they will soon get bad, especially the outer ones, as they really take a lot of energy when you hit a solid object with your wheel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addwhite Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 1 hour ago, zlab said: I really can't look at the ZZ bearings there, without any additional dust protection. I am kind a allergic to that 😁 Metal enclosed bearings have absolutelly no protection against the dust, as the rubber ones do offer some of it... I am sure they will last longer especially on positions where they dont take any hits (diffs and slipper clutch bearing). On the wheels i know they will soon get bad, especially the outer ones, as they really take a lot of energy when you hit a solid object with your wheel... Yes my wheel bearings fail all the time. I may well order some, give them a try. They are cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budman9 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 (edited) Hi, is this upgraded vantage clone? https://m.banggood.com/VRX-RH1017PR-110-2_4G-4WD-Brushless-RC-Car-High-Speed-RTR-With-FS-Transmitter-p-1558161.html?rmmds=search Edited October 23, 2019 by budman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintin Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Wow, that looks like quite a good deal if it is actually all carbon, and not just aquagraphic coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Ah yes beariggs. For bashing, high quality arnt really needed. All I did was put all my bearings in isopropyl alcohol and shake it a bit and leave it in an air tight container. Cleaned em up, spun them a bit to get the dirt out and put some bearing oil in them. Tadaa. Most of my bearings were able to be re used. One of them however was just gone. The balls were gone. Ordered some cheap bearings manually off amazon. Rubber sealed. I recommend keeping spare bearings for your rc because spares. Spares wise I'd keep spur gears, bearings, slipper clutch and suspension arms. Thoose seem to be the main points of wear. Oh also tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 12 hours ago, budman9 said: Hi, is this upgraded vantage clone? https://m.banggood.com/VRX-RH1017PR-110-2_4G-4WD-Brushless-RC-Car-High-Speed-RTR-With-FS-Transmitter-p-1558161.html?rmmds=search VRX racing manufacture and supply the models for FTX and other brands. It is not a clone and yes it is proper carbon too :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.