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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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Next rebuild done and new suspension posts in. Shell hardened with scrim and adhesive then the old cracked shell glued inside. Was a bit heavy so had to trim a lot off. My son then went on a sticker frenzy. Also added a wheelie wheel and glued a bit of mesh over the motor hole to reduce stones getting in that way. See there is quite a bit of movement on my wheels so that may be the next upgrade! And would like to get slightly stiffer springs to take the extra shell weight probably need more oil in the shocks as well. Will give it a run this afternoon

IMG-20210228-WA0002.jpeg

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IMG-20210228-WA0006.jpeg

Edited by DavidBH
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Hobbywing users if you run it flat out again and again does it cut out and take a few minutes to cool down. Thought at first it was just out of battery but didn't seem to be. I also have a fan on top of the motor and it feels cool. Also do have the thermal wire connected hence I wonder if it's cutting the motor. 

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Also after smashing up yet another front bumper when jumping it into a bunker nose first I am wondering if I could fit another wheelie wheel to the front rather than the bumper as it is so well built.

 

Also like the way it connects to the chassis further back beyond the screws and chassis that has already broken.

 

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24 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Hobbywing users if you run it flat out again and again does it cut out and take a few minutes to cool down. Thought at first it was just out of battery but didn't seem to be. I also have a fan on top of the motor and it feels cool. Also do have the thermal wire connected hence I wonder if it's cutting the motor. 

My son went yesterday and today 4 hrs each nonstop bashing.

Lot's of speeding included as well.

Not a single case of overheating.

You and I have the same setup except that I don't use a motor fan. And I use a 10T pinion.

I have the feeling that the motor fan doesn't really help much since the Hobbywing motor doesn't have a flat surface.

Maybe not enough heat is transferred to the heat sink but instead trapped now between.

 

A heat sink would work well on a FTX factory brushless (Etronix Photon) or my Rustlers Velineon, since their motor surface is smooth.

 

Thermal wire is connected.

ESC is set to cut off at default 105°C.

 

It could also be that your battery has a higher C rating than mine and therefore pumps more Amps into the motor.

 

Edited by Jens
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24 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Hobbywing users if you run it flat out again and again does it cut out and take a few minutes to cool down. Thought at first it was just out of battery but didn't seem to be. I also have a fan on top of the motor and it feels cool. Also do have the thermal wire connected hence I wonder if it's cutting the motor. 

Ive never had a hobbywing setup cutout due to thermal overload of the esc or motor, i also didnt have the fan running on the esc and it was cooking... I think the shutoff would be the stalling cutoff or your punch is set higher than the batteries can discharge.

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10 minutes ago, Redback said:

Ive never had a hobbywing setup cutout due to thermal overload of the esc or motor, i also didnt have the fan running on the esc and it was cooking... I think the shutoff would be the stalling cutoff or your punch is set higher than the batteries can discharge.

Cheers redback think we have the same set up as well hobbywing max10 and bashing 5500 50c battery. I had both fans on ESC and motor running. I originally thought the battery had run flat but walked a few minutes then tried it again and it ran for another good 5-10 min before stopping again. 

 

Not changed anything just installed and ran with it, do have a programmer so could cut some power maybe but more fun trying to get used to the power and have to say touching the motor it felt pretty cool. Will see if it happens again next time out

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24 minutes ago, Jens said:

Went today for some really fun "Carnage Only" bashing.

After I trashed my Rustlers driveshaft I had to use "The Slayer".

 

Well, lucky me as usual, my Slayers differential lost 2 teeth of the pinion.

And I am only running with 2S Lipos.

My son, as usual, made fun of me.

His Carnage is running at 3S with much more power and his drive train is holding.

 

IMG-4883.jpgIMG-4884.jpgIMG-4885.jpg

 

And again

IMG-4980.jpgIMG-4981.jpgIMG-4982.jpgIMG-4983.jpg

 

🎶🎶Carnage in the air🎶🎶

IMG-4962.jpgIMG-4963.jpg

3S Brushless Power!

 


 

Great pics

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54 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Cheers redback think we have the same set up as well hobbywing max10 and bashing 5500 50c battery. I had both fans on ESC and motor running. I originally thought the battery had run flat but walked a few minutes then tried it again and it ran for another good 5-10 min before stopping again. 

 

Not changed anything just installed and ran with it, do have a programmer so could cut some power maybe but more fun trying to get used to the power and have to say touching the motor it felt pretty cool. Will see if it happens again next time out

Yes probably i have a few max systems, are you using  max 10 or max 10 stc? That a 3s battery yeah? You on a 4000kv motor or lowerkv?
maybe you are hitting the thermals then, is it geared pretty high, or maybe the gear mesh it too tight, the only time i have ever had hobbywing shut off is stalling it 3 times on hills. Maybe get some footage if it keeps happening?
Next time it cut out look at the leds, whats flashing?

 

image.png.45e039d8b803bad0c472abaae844da91.png

Edited by Redback
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Just the max 10. It really goes like the clappers and we were running it on a local closed golf club so were running it pretty much first out over and over again. It was still wheeling every now and then at full power. I have a video on my phone but been trying to compress and put it in here. Will look at doing that tomorrow maybe

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15 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Just the max 10. It really goes like the clappers and we were running it on a local closed golf club so were running it pretty much first out over and over again. It was still wheeling every now and then at full power. I have a video on my phone but been trying to compress and put it in here. Will look at doing that tomorrow maybe

Max 10 but what KV motor? This is what matters more.
My lads truck thats much bigger than a carnage has a diffrent hobbywing motor 3656 4200kv but uses the max10 on 2s lipos and we drive for hours and hours non stop even last summer when it was like 38c its never cutoff due to thermals, however this motor does not have a themal sensor cable. The way he pelts his truck about you would think the esc would cut out, the fan wasnt even connected once as i forgot to reconnect it after programming, thought id cooked it was stinking hot but it still keeps going.
Might be motor thermal cutout and if so, gear down or having a good motor combo wont be worth it if your having to cut runs short due to it protecting itself.
Have you spoken to hobbywing about it, something must be off, this shouldnt happen imo.

Edited by Redback
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22 hours ago, DavidBH said:

I hope it's not another motor or ESC issue, will see next weekend when we get out again. 

Consider removing the motor fan and heat sink.

I did that today on my extra Carnage with the cheap ESC/motor (orange GoolRC?) and I have no more problems of shutdown because of heat.

( Did about 2 hour race across the sports field )

 

It sounds somewhat strange, but maybe not enough heat is transferred from the ribbed motor surface to the heat sink.

It's just a guess, but it worked with me.

 

 

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Received the new wheels for the extra Carnage.

A bit bigger, making the car a bit faster.

 

IMG-5204.jpg

 

 

Those delivered foam inserts are prone to die fast.

Once water comes into the tire, the glue will dissolve and the foam ends up at one side of the wheel.

Proper inserts should not be glued like this!
IMG-5205.jpg

Will now be used by my kiddo to put on his arms to turn him into a muscle man. :rofl:
 

 

 

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On 01/03/2021 at 20:34, Jens said:

Received the new wheels for the extra Carnage.

A bit bigger, making the car a bit faster.

 

IMG-5204.jpg

 

 

Those delivered foam inserts are prone to die fast.

Once water comes into the tire, the glue will dissolve and the foam ends up at one side of the wheel.

Proper inserts should not be glued like this!
IMG-5205.jpg

Will now be used by my kiddo to put on his arms to turn him into a muscle man. :rofl:
 

 

 

Do you have to deglue the tyres from the rims and glue them on etc.?

 

Ran the car yesterday flat out lost control and it did a 3 x 360 sideways barrel roll. DIdnt break the mudguard or the shell, so shell stregthening has worked.

 

I think my battery problem is simply the battery running low on power. We battered it for a good 30 minutes flat out, then it stopped. Turned it off and back on again and it ran again for only a few minutes. Came home and let it all cool down, a few minutes at slow speed in the back garden and stopped again. Multimeter out the https://www.modelsport.co.uk/gens-ace-battery-lipo-3s-11-1v-5500-50c-deans-/rc-car-products/447265 had 10.47V at the terminals. I think the low voltage circuit is kicking in.  I read elsewhere that set to low it kicks at 9V medium 9.6V and high 10.2V for a 3s LiPo.

 

Not sure if my wheels are actually pointing in the right direction having just looked at it!

 

What is the cheapest gadget for measuring the speed of your RC car? 

 

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1 minute ago, Boxadoruk said:

0D8624F6-6F08-4DC7-9B93-4964B50D82FD.jpeg

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2DF24A0E-498B-4D6B-9DCA-FFB28FDD0929.jpeg

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Is that a carnage 2 with aluminium chassis, struts can carbon fibre top piece?  Very nice in deed.

 

Just found a thing called a Speed Flea or was thinking I could just attach my running watch to it!

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DavidBH 

it was a vantage couldn’t get ahold of the carnage but brought all the ally upgrades because the plastic parts don’t last long.  Changed the dog bones at the back for the same cvd ones at front.  Doubled up the carbon rear towers a lot more stronger.  Ali on the front and changed the motor mount it can handle 20 foot jumps and falls 

C75976F5-13C0-4997-9DD3-623047A9582E.jpeg

FD5E2740-3F4B-47E0-979A-2176F0ACEFD5.jpeg

B4CF8B3E-5414-427F-BEA9-73D91C04E509.jpeg

Edited by Boxadoruk
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27 minutes ago, Boxadoruk said:

DavidBH 

it was a vantage couldn’t get ahold of the carnage but brought all the ally upgrades because the plastic parts don’t last long.  Changed the dog bones at the back for the same cvd ones at front.  Doubled up the carbon rear towers a lot more stronger.  Ali on the front and changed the motor mount it can handle 20 foot jumps and falls 

C75976F5-13C0-4997-9DD3-623047A9582E.jpeg

FD5E2740-3F4B-47E0-979A-2176F0ACEFD5.jpeg

B4CF8B3E-5414-427F-BEA9-73D91C04E509.jpeg

Hi m8 where did you get the stainless steel screws (I think there stainless S)   as iv been sorting my carnage/outlaw and keep rounding off the crap screws . 

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16 hours ago, DavidBH said:

Do you have to deglue the tyres from the rims and glue them on etc.?

 

Tires came unglued. 👍

 

Just glued them yesterday:

 

Inserts cut from my pipe lagging:

IMG-5207.jpg

 

Water hole:
IMG-5208.jpg


Closed!

IMG-5209.jpg

 

Glued.
IMG-5217.jpg

Not nice looking, but waterproof. So I don't care.

 

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Boxadoruk said:

DavidBH 

it was a vantage couldn’t get ahold of the carnage but brought all the ally upgrades because the plastic parts don’t last long.  Changed the dog bones at the back for the same cvd ones at front.  Doubled up the carbon rear towers a lot more stronger.  Ali on the front and changed the motor mount it can handle 20 foot jumps and falls 

C75976F5-13C0-4997-9DD3-623047A9582E.jpeg

FD5E2740-3F4B-47E0-979A-2176F0ACEFD5.jpeg

B4CF8B3E-5414-427F-BEA9-73D91C04E509.jpeg

 

Well fortified Carnage/former vantage!

 

Hope you don't mind me pointing out a weakness I saw in the pics.

It seems that pinion & spur are no more covered and the spur is still the plastic one.

(But maybe I see it wrong in the pictures)

Any stones coming in and the spur is nicely rounded.

 

You will find hardened steel pinion/spur at ebay sold by David (also a member here).

 

Using the front CVDs in the rear is a good idea...

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jens said:

Tires came unglued. 👍

 

Just glued them yesterday:

 

Inserts cut from my pipe lagging:

IMG-5207.jpg

 

Water hole:
IMG-5208.jpg


Closed!

IMG-5209.jpg

 

Glued.
IMG-5217.jpg

Not nice looking, but waterproof. So I don't care.

 

 

 

 

They look great. I think a few more days oh high speed running and I will need new tyres. Not tried the nail varnish trick but tried to take the present ones off the rims and thought they are likely to be damaged. Need to set aside time for programming, maybe messing around with the low voltage cutoff and seeing if I can get good speed data from my running watch to see if I can get a speed from the car.

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51 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

They look great. I think a few more days oh high speed running and I will need new tyres. Not tried the nail varnish trick but tried to take the present ones off the rims and thought they are likely to be damaged. Need to set aside time for programming, maybe messing around with the low voltage cutoff and seeing if I can get good speed data from my running watch to see if I can get a speed from the car.

Just a hint with a smirk. 😉

My tires are a bit bigger (5") giving you a bit higher speed.

Cost £32 for the complete set.

+pipe lagging, +tire glue

Tempting? :cheers:

 

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Hi all well the last cupl weeks iv been playing with a spare carnage chassis  just after my daughter snapped  my carnage chassis  and a big thanks to  jens for the replacement.  I won a rolling shell off Ebay so I thought ok one spare   till it arrived . 

Full of holes. (Which are supposte to be there)  so I thought I can do somthing with this . 

 

So i did  i have put an outlaw drive in the carnage chassis . And once i buy another complete transmission (about £20 complete)  i will be adding it to the rear  drive   so I'll have two motors running my carnage.  

 

Here's the one motor set up .  

16149561046142693920931994678584.jpg

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