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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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On 07/04/2012 at 03:11, DUBZN1 said:

They do t fair abuse too well so I went to a hyper 7 1/8th as it stand up to do much more

Although that being said , I've still got my blast 😃


FTX vs Hyper 7 = no contest unfortunately. The H7 is superior in every way imaginable and not that much more if you buy a used one but people are put off with having to convert it as there are no electric models as standard (unless you consider the VS which is more expensive new)

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Hi, can anyone give me some advice please? My FTX bugsta brushed often won’t brake or reverse, sometimes it does but more often than not doesn’t. I’ve previously put in a hobbywing quickrun 1060 ESC and use 2s lipo batteries. I have burnt out a motor like this before. Could it be the motor or ESC? Any idea what the issue might be? Thanks.

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1 hour ago, Charlie007 said:

Hi, can anyone give me some advice please? My FTX bugsta brushed often won’t brake or reverse, sometimes it does but more often than not doesn’t. I’ve previously put in a hobbywing quickrun 1060 ESC and use 2s lipo batteries. I have burnt out a motor like this before. Could it be the motor or ESC? Any idea what the issue might be? Thanks.

Not something as simple as the trim on your transmitter is it?

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My FTX carnage died mid run today, just lost power with not warning, diagnostics in the field show that I still have steering, but no throttle or reverse. Power getting to ESC as light reacts to controller. No little tune when I turn the car on though. Time to figure out how to diagnose a power/motor issue!?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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14 hours ago, Charlie007 said:

Hi, can anyone give me some advice please? My FTX bugsta brushed often won’t brake or reverse, sometimes it does but more often than not doesn’t. I’ve previously put in a hobbywing quickrun 1060 ESC and use 2s lipo batteries. I have burnt out a motor like this before. Could it be the motor or ESC? Any idea what the issue might be? Thanks.

 

@Charlie007 no idea on this one really, I know reverse on my carnage seems really hit and miss, but that is something to do with it needing to be at a stop before reverse will engage

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3 hours ago, RCJC said:

My FTX carnage died mid run today, just lost power with not warning, diagnostics in the field show that I still have steering, but no throttle or reverse. Power getting to ESC as light reacts to controller. No little tune when I turn the car on though. Time to figure out how to diagnose a power/motor issue!?

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Ok

 

So, could do with some diagnostic pointers on this one.

 

Out for a run today, burned my way through my 4500 NIMH and moved on to my 7200 2S LIPO, was having a generally good run, few bumps and tumbles but nothing crazy, was all on dry short grass.

 

I took a break for a while, drove the car forward about 2 metres and then all of a sudden it lost power (drive).  Steering good, and all looks ok, but no drive or reverse. Chucked the stock 1800 NIMH in there for the sake of going back to basics.  Attempted to bind the controller again, but no joy.

 

There are NO TONES when starting up the car which is odd, it always plays its little tune normally.  The lights seem to be flashing on the ESC as usual.  The lights on the ESC also react to my applying throttle or reverse, but there is Zero power (and zero attempt to power) from the motor.

 

Little diagnostic youtube here:  

 

 

So ... I am guessing it is either motor or ESC.  Is there any way to determine which?

 

If it is motor, no bother, I can grab one for < £10.

 

If it is ESC, then that is closer to £30, which is at the price point where I would consider looking to go brushless if I can find a system at the right price.

 

Any / all help appreciated, I know you guys know this stuff so much better than I do yet.

 

Jon

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Do not replace the esc with the same one. Get the Hobbywing 1060. For £18 it's worth getting even if it's not the esc that's at fault...which I suspect it is as the FTX esc is utter crock. The Hobbywing runs more efficiently, cooler and reliably.

@Nickarla if I am spending money replacing ESC, do you think I should consider going to brushless?

 

Also, if I go for that hobby wing one would it work with my current transmitter and motor

 

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Yes, everything will work perfectly, you just swap it over. A good Hobbywing brushless system will cost you around £80. Whether it's the route you take is down to you and what you plan to do with the car. For taking it off road and general bashing I'd keep the smoothness of the brushed system. Thing start breaking quickly on the FTX cars when bashing brushless. If its general speed, racing around and low impact driving then brushless absolutely makes sense.

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Yes, everything will work perfectly, you just swap it over. A good Hobbywing brushless system will cost you around £80. Whether it's the route you take is down to you and what you plan to do with the car. For taking it off road and general bashing I'd keep the smoothness of the brushed system. Thing start breaking quickly on the FTX cars when bashing brushless. If its general speed, racing around and low impact driving then brushless absolutely makes sense.
That's really helpful@Nickarla thank you!

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Nice one. Let us know how it goes. I’m sure it’ll fix it but if for some reason it doesn’t, you’ve got an upgrade which should be done from day one anyway. Working esc or not that FTX esc should be binned.
 

Just make sure to read the instruction and set it up for LiPo use when you use them. I’ve had some nervy times when I forgot to set my sons esc to LiPo mode.

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Nice one. Let us know how it goes. I’m sure it’ll fix it but if for some reason it doesn’t, you’ve got an upgrade which should be done from day one anyway. Working esc or not that FTX esc should be binned.
 
Just make sure to read the instruction and set it up for LiPo use when you use them. I’ve had some nervy times when I forgot to set my sons esc to LiPo mode.
At the moment I run both nimh and lipo battery, do i need to change settings for each (I.e. should I stick to lipo)?

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On 21/03/2020 at 09:53, Fat Freddy said:

Not something as simple as the trim on your transmitter is it?

 

On 21/03/2020 at 11:19, Charlie007 said:

Thanks but no I’ve fiddled about with all the different settings as well as the jumper setting on the esc


That would have been my guess as well. No electronics are immune to failure but Hobbywings generally fail less than any other brand. Have you tried swapping the servo and motor inputs on the esc to see whether you can steer one way but not the other?

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3 minutes ago, RCJC said:

At the moment I run both nimh and lipo battery, do i need to change settings for each (I.e. should I stick to lipo)?

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Setting to LiPo when using LiPo is a must. You can leave it on LiPo when using Nimh but you won’t get as much run time. Not switching to the LiPo setting when using lipos runs the risk of the voltage going dangerously low.

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Setting to LiPo when using LiPo is a must. You can leave it on LiPo when using Nimh but you won’t get as much run time. Not switching to the LiPo setting when using lipos runs the risk of the voltage going dangerously low.
Super, that aligns to my understanding with my current setup, looking forward to getting the parts in and tinkering now

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1 hour ago, Nickarla said:

 


That would have been my guess as well. No electronics are immune to failure but Hobbywings generally fail less than any other brand. Have you tried swapping the servo and motor inputs on the esc to see whether you can steer one way but not the other?

Thanks for the advice. I actually swapped the receivers over with my other bugsta and that sorted it. So I guess it’s either the recover or the remote...? I’m guessing the receiver.  On another topic the steering on one car is hardly working. The servo is fine - full and strong movement but the spring in the servo saver compresses straight away and barely turns the wheels. Do you have any experience of this issue please?

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On  the Carnage? Has the e clip come out? It needs supergluing otherwise it'll come out sooner or later. When it does it'll keep coming out easily. Superglue it when the servo saver is upside down  and ensure that the glue doesnt lock the servo saver otherwise you'll ruin your servo.

 

I found that it still steered with out it when rolling but it was less precise.

Edited by Nickarla
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On  the Carnage? Has the e clip come out? It needs supergluing otherwise it'll come out sooner or later. When it does it'll keep coming out easily. Superglue it when the servo saver is upside down  and ensure that the glue doesnt lock the servo saver otherwise you'll ruin you servo.
 
I found that it still steered with out it  ut it was less precise.
I am on my fourth e clip, now it has come out once I just keep losing them! I have ordered a new servo saver and will glue mine before installing into the car!

From my experience, when you lose the e clip, steering goes to **it, and the servo saver constantly activates under normal steering conditions

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Just now, RCJC said:

I am on my fourth e clip, now it has come out once I just keep losing them! I have ordered a new servo saver and will glue mine before installing into the car!

From my experience, when you lose the e clip, steering goes to **it, and the servo saver constantly activates under normal steering conditions

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

 

Yep, when it comes out it damages the servo saver ever so slightly  but enough for it not to stay in again. Since I superglued mine it never came out again.

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