Spriggan Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Nice one Ninja, Have you got yourself a program card as well? they are much easier to make the adjustments to the ESC than using the set button, and you will need to turn the ESC setting down with the 1717 motor on board. Guy, have you checked you cut off voltage is not set too high? I had the Vader out for the 4th time on the same set of Nano's. Not long sessions, just quick blasts of 4-5 minutes a time, but they are still going at full pelt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Wow, not good, what happened? Kev I did manage about 10 mins before my soldering melted!!, so happy I should get alittle longer, That wasn't giving it the beans and on flat grass, 50% poddling around 50% ragging it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 I suppose we should be using silver solder rather than lead solder! I've been lazy and used the soft solder as it's easy to work with, But I have a harder grade here I have done the ESC connectors with, and will be using that on all the EC5 connectors, its just not so easy with the 20w iron, as my 40w seems to have packed up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 (edited) You guys are costing me lots of cash! I just bought Sirius 1717 motor (Nick says should have it by end of month) 6.5mm Castle bullets to go on to HW ESC and stock motor Clear bodyshell so I can have my vader look the same as the rest of my fleet (Metallic black with Monster Energy green vinyls) HW programmer Card 2 x 6s 5000MaH 30c Zippy's A new receiver so I can use my Airtronics MT4 tranny and telemetry instead of the stock one Couple of lengths of 10AWG cable and some TRX connectors to make up a parallel harness A new 40w soldering iron so I don't fluff up my solder joints If the missus gets wind of this I am in BIG trouble! On an unrelated note, I took the vader out for a spin in the local park and there were two guys running EDF jets. One came over to look at my car and offered to race me. "Race a car against a plane?" I thought. He went to the back of his car and got out a home-made hydroplane he'd made with a small brushless outrunner mootr and prop. We picked a point to race to and I took off with my 4WD and extra traction. Next thing I know, he model has turned to the left and is making a beeline for my vader. It smashed against my rear wheel - there's foam flying, bits of motor all over the place. I felt terrible but I hadn't done anything to cause the crash. He was fine about it, said I had done him a favour. Went to check my Vader and of course nothing had happened to it at all! Moral of the story : Cars should race cars, and planes should race planes, no matter how fast the car in question is! N Edited June 12, 2012 by ninjagaiden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 Us, No, dont believe it, cant be us! Know what your saying, this whole hobby is like a bottomless pit, you can just keep throwing money at it. Then just as you get that car as you want it, you start off with something else....Mad Bet you will be going for another set of battery's soon as well! I always hold by breath when I get tangled up with the MCD at the track, as they are bigger and heavier than my poor little vader, and one day they are going to beat me up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 @Spriggan : too right about the bottomless pit! Cheaper than taking up Golf though... I was reading about those Cap packs that Castle make, which I think are installed in the XO1. Seems like yo get a little extra punch and smooths out the current coming from the cells. I wonder if they would help take the load off the HW 150A ESC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_scot_nanny Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Jeez - oh, that solder metling business is dangerous! But isn't the power just intoxicating? It's amazing on the 1717 when the car is screaming along, and there is still another 30% still to give, so when you squeeze that last bit out it is truly screaming. wonderful! You do run out of space real fast however, and I find I have to be "on it" mentally all the time when driving this car. Nuts! After you guys' chat, and some conversations with Rob Mclean from the rampage store, I plumped for some suspension arms and pins as back ups. He also strongly recommended upgrading to the 7075 running gear like our good mate spriggan on here, so 200 bucks later (plus pricy postage... ouch!) I have a lovely set of aluminium bits and large bearings to fit. Thanks to spriggan for the build notes of using those bits. I asked about the HPI adapters, but it asks for either 6mm or 10mm thread. Eh? What does that mean? Anyone know? Will post some photos soon. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 @Spriggan : I just realised that I will be in Cornwall on 8th July during the time of the Cornwall MRC meet at Perranporth Airfield (we stay in a holiday let on the Roseland each summer). You ever been? Such a shame that we have to put useless stuff in the car boot, like children's clothes and beachwear, instead of my XB-E! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jony nitro Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Get It in there your the Boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 I asked about the HPI adapters, but it asks for either 6mm or 10mm thread. Eh? What does that mean? Anyone know? Kev A lot of the Redcats were fitted with 6mm wheel nuts, where as the Mavrick Vader has the 10mm wheel nuts. But I believe the Redcats have also changed to the 10mm Axles now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 @Spriggan : I just realised that I will be in Cornwall on 8th July during the time of the Cornwall MRC meet at Perranporth Airfield (we stay in a holiday let on the Roseland each summer). You ever been? Such a shame that we have to put useless stuff in the car boot, like children's clothes and beachwear, instead of my XB-E! Yep, its very nice over on the Roseland peninsular, always seem to have a climate of it own. It would be great if you can work in a visit to the track on the 8th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_scot_nanny Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 A lot of the Redcats were fitted with 6mm wheel nuts, where as the Mavrick Vader has the 10mm wheel nuts. But I believe the Redcats have also changed to the 10mm Axles now. ahhh, thanks! I have spent enough recently, so will wait until my wheels are destroyed then upgrade! Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 @Spriggan : too right about the bottomless pit! Cheaper than taking up Golf though... I was reading about those Cap packs that Castle make, which I think are installed in the XO1. Seems like yo get a little extra punch and smooths out the current coming from the cells. I wonder if they would help take the load off the HW 150A ESC? I play golf twice a week and have a Vader+ two kids, how do I do it ? (a big overdraft)!!!! I have never spent so much before I've had other RC trucks etc, but don't keep them long but the Vader is deffo a kepper!!!, Just fitted a 11t haven't tried it yet, put some threadlock on to play safe as others have done!!!, Need to resolder one of the Nano techs but no drama really, still have to fit the Hpi converters and sort bigger wheels, luckily a bonus is in the pipeline at work but thats spent already LOL!!! Just a quick question (had to be some point to all my waffle I hear you say) I have fitted the 11t and have the stock bigger pinion on if that makes sense, what has everyone else upgraded to or have you left that as it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 I'm sticking with the 10T with the slightly bigger Elcon wheels on the HPI Hex's. With the faster 1717 motor and larger wheels fitted, I wonder if the Vader might be better with a 9T pinion, or 48T spur. Trouble is I'm not really going to get a chance to give the setup a good test until the next race in two weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jony nitro Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I play golf aswell, no Vader though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theboss1973 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 I'm sticking with the 10T with the slightly bigger Elcon wheels on the HPI Hex's. With the faster 1717 motor and larger wheels fitted, I wonder if the Vader might be better with a 9T pinion, or 48T spur. Trouble is I'm not really going to get a chance to give the setup a good test until the next race in two weeks. Referrence the Hpi converters, haven't taken the wheels off yet, waiting until I get hold of some bigger wheels, I note I need grub screws for the converters, when I take the other wheels off is there one I can use from old set up, I have funny feeling you have posted this in previous posts so will try and look back, thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 The hub converters come with the grubscrews, you just need to threadlock them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Aaarrrggghhhh! I spent a few hours trying to solder a TRX Y harness for the Vader. I managed to get the TRX connectors onto the 6s lipos okay - same cable but already tinned. Working with the untinned 10AWG cable is a nightmare. The little wire strands spread out and I could not get the wire tinned. I gave up for the evening and will try again. Maybe it was because I was trying to tin a very short length of cable to fit on the end of the TRX connector. Perhaps it I trim back the sleeving a lot longer (say 20mm), ttin the wire, and then cut it, this might work better. Any advice would be welcomed! On a positive note I got my new bodyshell painted up in Gunmetal with green Monster Energy vinyls and it looks great. I even put carbon fibre wrap on the top and sides of the rear wing. Looks really good with the stock black wheels. N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 I always use a bit of self cleaning flux, The stuff that says Do Not use for electrics! That helps stick the fine wires together, & makes the solder run up the end of the wire easily. I have also ordered a 100W soldering iron as the job is just too much for my little 20W one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jony nitro Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 60 watt is more than fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 My iron is definitely not up to the job. Looked at a few youtube vids on how to tin 10AWG cable and mine just won't get heat into the wire. Thinking about whether to get a beefier iron and some flux or get someone else to make me up the parallel harness. Anyone help me out with how to remove ESC? The exploded diagram in the manual is terrible. Is it the four bolts that go through the corners of the fan? Cheers N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Anyone help me out with how to remove ESC? The exploded diagram in the manual is terrible. Is it the four bolts that go through the corners of the fan? I'm sure its just the two cap head screws at the front and rear of the ESC body. they do look a bit hard to get to but they do come out, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_scot_nanny Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I have the same question about the ESC. I undid those 2 bolts, but the ESC really did not want to come out. What did they stick it onto the ESC mounting plate with? did not want to pull too hard! I ended up with the car upside down, wires held out to the side, so that I could solder the new 6.5mm bullets onto the ESC leads. Not ideal! Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Guys Here's apicture of my new bodyshell: http://mydarkvader.blogspot.co.uk/ Really sorry about the cheesy blog name! Can anyone confirm whether or not the 4mm mounting screws come with the Sirius 1717 motor? N 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spriggan Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 nice looking shell, is the replacment shell better quality than the stock shell? I'll be needing a new one soon. The Sirius motor doesnt come with the mounting screws, you have to supply your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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