Garry Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Yep it'll fit but you'll lose the adjustable upper arms so you can't change your camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cossieboy2007 Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 @Garry, thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cossieboy2007 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 (edited) @Garry i've been uprating my escort cossie xbs i've fitted the alloy prop shaft and alloy motor heat sink but i've run into a problem fiitting the bearing set, i've changed the 4 bearings in the rear diff and i went to change the bearings in the wheel hubs before i did the front, but i can't seem to be able to take the hub apart, also there are 4 small bearing in the set and i can't find where they go, they are not in the manual, please help? ps: this is the bearing set i bought http://cgi.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 Edited August 17, 2011 by cossieboy2007 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 The 4 small bearings is for the steering posts on the the TT01 Type E, has a braced steering post on each side supported by a bushing. Yours isn't a Type E so don't worry about them. The hubs are fairly straight forward. Take the wheels off, undo the kingpin phillips head screws upper and lower, then lift the upper wishbone away and the hub should come out. Then its a case of taking the hex of, the pin out then use a flat bladed screwdriver (watchmaker type) to push out the inner and outer bearings from the opposite sides. The rear hubs should be pretty much the same. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cossieboy2007 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 @Garry thanks mate, i changed the bearings in both the diffs/gearboxes and fitted an alloy prop shaft and alloy motor heat shield, so it's just the wheel hubs to do and i'll do them when i get my alloy dog bones, and it says my car is a 'type es' in the instruction manual i got with it, so do i need the 4 small bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboyneil Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 hi can you help will this fit ok in my TL-01 or should i be looking for a hardcase one my lhs doesnt sttock any that fit and i don't want to hack away at the light wright chassis as it cost me a small fortune to get seeing as their not made anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Nope it won't fit, you need rounded packs like these: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-xirus-race-7.4v-20c-2600mah-lipo-pack-tamiya-/rc-car-products/39959 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-xirus-race-7.4v-20c-3600mah-lipo-pack-tamiya-/rc-car-products/39960 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-xirus-race-7.4v-20c-4000mah-lipo-pack-tamiya-/rc-car-products/40277 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-xirus-pro-7.4v-30c-3600mah-lipo-pack-tamiya-/rc-car-products/39962 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84mini25 Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Hi, I originally bought a tamiay tl-01 god knows how many years ago, used it for a bit along with the other electric and nitro ones I had at the time. I then sort of moved on full sized ones (mostly minis, hence the user name) and trying to squeeze the most power out of either the old a series or going mad and dropping in something completey different like a vtec or even an r1 instead. But I’ve recently been having quite a big sort out and came across the old tl-01, charged up a battery pack and too my surprise it still worked. I’ve since fitted a brand new set of ball races, a set of oil filled dampers (the standard ones really are rubbish) a foam bumper to help support the body and a new body shell in the shape of a ford focus. Its been running ok ish up till now, even with just the standard motor witch will do for the time being. Is that during high speed corning the rear end just bounces, digs in and tries to flip the car over, running it on a slightly dusty, smooth tarmac car park. Is there anything I could try to stop this other than slowing down? And the other thing I’ve begun to notice is all the mountings on the chassis for the dampers; front steering arms and rear hubs were the black screws are have started to split. None of the screws have been over tightened, so could this just be age related? It wouldn’t be too much of a problem is it is, as I’ve seen new chassis cheap and some nice alloy suspension arms and hubs anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Hiya, welcome to the forum! The handling problem sounds like a classic case of the standard friction dampers - they offer little damping A set of 55mm oil filled shocks will cure most of that problem, and you get the ability to tune the handling with different thickness oil, different piston holes, ride height etc. http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Ansmann-Racing-55mm-Aluminium-Adjustable-Dampers-p/ar201000018.htm And yep, its a common problem with the older TL01 and M03 chassis, they start to split in an accident, then the cracks get larger over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84mini25 Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Ah, the only problem being is that I’ve already swapped out the standard fiction dampers for some oil filled ones witch came ready to fit. So would it be worth maybe changing the oil they came with something thicker? And at the moment the cracking doesn’t appear to be too bad and the old superglue seams to be working for now. At least I know now to look out for it happening on the m03 I have as well, but then that rarely gets used. But then at the speed it gets through front tyres that might not be a bad thing lol. Just a shame that I’m stuck with the friction dampers on the m03. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Sounds like the oil is too thin then, try some 40wt oil in the shocks and a 2 hole piston if you have any spare ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashter Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Hello there! I'm fairly new to the RC world and completely new to the forum. I see its been a fair while since anyone posted on here. was just wanting some help. I have TT01 E which has an alloy prop shaft and metal bearings. I'm wanting to put something like a 12T motor and suitable ESC in it but don't know where to start to be honest. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm not into drifting or anything, just beating my mates on a huge car park we have at work! What about this My link Cheers! How much quicker will the tt-01e be with this kit on it, or the 10.5T version? If there was a budget for just a motor and no esc upgrade which would be the best motor to upgrade to. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 you could try a 9t ezrun maybe even a castle 540 utits upto you on what turn or like some on youtube have done a 5.5t but it would be alittle nuts with that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graemzee Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 This may seem a stupid question, but bear with me just getting into rc cars. I'm looking to upgrade my tt-01 motor, but on the cheap, and was going to buy the HPI Firebolt 15t Motor. Do I simply swap the motors over or do I need to change any of the gearing/pinion? Or can anyone suggest a better motor for less than Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Welcome to the forum! What ESC have you got? The HPI motor is quick, depending on what pinion and spur you already have, you may find you'll need a smaller pinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graemzee Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Thanks, I have just ordered a Modelsport UK Sniper RV-12 which has a 12t limit. I was going join to change the pinion gear to 25t and the spur to 55t and also add an aluminium prop shaft. Is all of this going to work with this fireboat motor and more importantly be worth the extra money to get better speed?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 If I remember right, the TT01 comes with a 19t pinion and a 60t spur gear as standard, so according to the gear chart on the first page, you'll be going from a gear ratio of about 8 to a gear ratio of about 5.7. Thats a big leap when sticking with the same motor, never mind going to a faster one. It shouldn't be too much though if you're driving in a big wide carpark, but if you're going to a club and going on track, or doing a lot of standing starts/low-speed driving then it could be too highly geared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graemzee Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 It works a treat! Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skye78 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Hi all, Right, time once again for silly questions, ive read all the posts in this thread but im still being blonde.....I've found my old TT-01 chassis in the loft, so ive decided to rebuild it, all ive done is ballrace it and buy(not fit) an ansmann 21T Clash motor, ive just ordered an alloy prop shaft, My questions are these: 1) will i need to change the stock pinion and spur gears to run the above motor? 2) is this ESC suitable to use - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-probe-plus-brushed-esc/rc-car-products/367600 3) Whats the best sort of servo to go for? (value for money) any advice would be great, its been along time since i last built 1 of these cars and im abit rusty Cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 1. Ultimately it comes down to where you're driving the car in terms of space available, but I think it'll be fine geared on 19/60. 2. Yep it'll run it fine. 3. This is one of the best value for money servos around: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/power-hd-metal-geared-servo/rc-car-products/35545 A set of oil-flled shocks would be a good investment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skye78 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Thats great, cheers. im on the case, and as for the shocks, i hve been looking at some ansmanns that seem to be just the ticket as my current shocks are solid stiff so will need to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skye78 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Also, regards to space, im mainly going to race around car parks with a couple of mates, nothing serious(or so they believe ) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Just done a swap with my mate for a TT01ES, one of those XB ones, i did the ballrace/prop upgrade a while back but i need a spur gear and gear cover for it to run it. My old TT01, was geared at 28/55 on an exceed sport BL setup, run on nimh 7.2v though so never got hot but was bullet fast, kept up with some well tuned nitro's. Fitted my etronix photon 10t combo so wondering what gearing will be safe on it for 2s lipo running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Stock gearing is 19/61 by the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigseal888 Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 HI all, Here is my silly questions and hope someone can help. I currently have a TT01 typeD, running HPI SW15 ESC and Firebolt 15T (both ripped out from my HPI Sprint2). Stuck a HobbyWing 9T brushless and the car is stupidly quick but cant drift - hence I stuck the HPI kit back on. I want to keep the standard gear setup and wanted to more power on the brushed motor (staying away from brushless as I want to drift more than sprint). Tempted to get the Etronix Modified Brushed motor (27T)? Will this work with my HPI SW15 ESC? Or any powerful brushed motor that works with the HPI ESC? Budget is < Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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