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Front and Rear sway bars EB4 s2


Garry45

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Guys

I just want to no is it worth putting front and rear sway bars on and does it really make a difference??

Also for my eb4 they do them in different colours and thickness so my question is what coloured ones do I need and do i need to have front and rear????

Garry

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If your noticing it has a lot of roll in the corners fit some if you can't tell if it's rolling then don't bother, if your just bashing it around over the park then I doubt your notice much difference to be fair ..

The sway bars don't come with the diff case mounts !! Them your need to buy as well if you do decide to fit them !

If you want it slightly more planted widen it up with some wheel hex extenders !. Rc8t extenders fit if you want it a lot wider or Fastrax do some for the hobao hyper 7 or SSe range which fit as well

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Thanks for the reply and to be honest Im only car park bashing but saw it as an upgrade.

Like the idea of the wheel extenders as im getting another shell and its got serious flared arches and I did think how the hell am I gonna fill them lol

Garry

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Garry, generally sway bars will limit roll, which also means they will limit how much the suspension can move, or 'suppleness'.

If you're like me, just a basher, then you probably don't need them, unless as mentioned you find it really rolling a lot.

 

They will really help racers limit roll, 'dial in' tyre compounds and suspension settings to get a good setup for racing.

 

If you limit the front too much, you can actually make it understeer more than if the suspension permitted more travel, keeping mechanical grip.

 

Al.

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Garry, generally sway bars will limit roll, which also means they will limit how much the suspension can move, or 'suppleness'.

If you're like me, just a basher, then you probably don't need them, unless as mentioned you find it really rolling a lot.

 

They will really help racers limit roll, 'dial in' tyre compounds and suspension settings to get a good setup for racing.

 

If you limit the front too much, you can actually make it understeer more than if the suspension permitted more travel, keeping mechanical grip.

 

Al.

Hi Al

Thanks mate and defo not going down that road and instead I'm going to upgrade my springs and shock oil as the suspension at the mo is like a boat and bottoms out easily.yes it soaks the bumps up but will end up wrecking my shell in the process,

How about I replace the shock oil 1st but then I'm stuck again as I havent a clue what grade to go with so any help would be good.

Garry

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Bitten by the bug!!

Optimising suspension is near impossible for all circumstances.

 

SLIGHTLY thicker oil might work.

How much pre-load is on the shocks at the moment, and how much is left?

 

Increasing viscosity can raise it, but it can also change rebound and all other characteristics such that the suspension just doesn't respond quickly enough for the bumps - you'll end up with more airtime than Vodafone!!

 

The best is to have really smooth operating shocks, and probably the softest you can risk without damaging the chassis, etc., as you're seeing.

Stiffer oil / springs might simply be compensating for non-smooth operating shocks.

 

Hope this helps a little!!

 

Al.

Edited by atom3624
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They limit how much the body/chassis rolls - depending on vehicle type and application.

This can mean that you can have fairly soft / supple suspension, but at a certain point, there is no more movement - normally there actually is, but the left hand side is tied to the RHS, so they BOTH move up.

This can have the effect of limiting roll overs, but in areas of marginal grip, it can make the front slide easier - understeer - if you place the anti-roll or sway bar on the front.

The same goes for the rear.

 

I have an FG MT, which had a rear sway bar. I removed it - it is recommended to do so. It's a 2WD so is very tail happy as it is, and the rear slides quite easily.

It's even RECommended to install a front sway bar by some to sort of balance the rear slidiness with front slidiness!!

I haven't done that one!!

 

Al.

Edited by atom3624
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Bitten by the bug!!

Optimising suspension is near impossible for all circumstances.

 

SLIGHTLY thicker oil might work.

How much pre-load is on the shocks at the moment, and how much is left?

 

Increasing viscosity can raise it, but it can also change rebound and all other characteristics such that the suspension just doesn't respond quickly enough for the bumps - you'll end up with more airtime than Vodafone!!

 

The best is to have really smooth operating shocks, and probably the softest you can risk without damaging the chassis, etc., as you're seeing.

Stiffer oil / springs might simply be compensating for non-smooth operating shocks.

 

Hope this helps a little!!

 

Al.

Thanks again Al for the advice and I might just leave things as they are until I'm certain what I want from my rc and do a bit more reading to understand suspension geometry but I no I will give up on that in a few seconds lol

I might just upgrade the springs for a slightly more firmer ones and leave it at that

Garry

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From what I've learned, anti-roll bars even out tyre wear, and change the over/under steer. You can change the steering by changing the spring stiffness- stiffer in the rear = over steer, and vice versa. And in RC tyre wear isn't as important as in F1, so I think it might be too much hassle.

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