HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[henzy190]

Ooh, a 2.4 gig version: http://www.modelspor...5&ChassisID=619

More info coming end of July, sounds nice!!

And I can't help notice some new orange anodised parts in the picture as well... I'm guessing it will be waterproofed too?

Edited July 19, 2011 by henzy190

[Mitman]

Ooh, a 2.4 gig version: http://www.modelspor...5&ChassisID=619

More info coming end of July, sounds nice!!

And I can't help notice some new orange anodised parts in the picture as well... I'm guessing it will be waterproofed too?

Been checking almost everyday for updates - HPI - Modelsport - HPI - Modelsport......

The first day I don't check and Henzy finds an update, not much, but an update none the less....

Cheers

@Superredeye - That Integy rear bumper looks mint

Edited July 19, 2011 by Mitman

[henzy190]

Been checking almost everyday for updates - HPI - Modelsport - HPI - Modelsport......

The first day I don't check and Henzy finds an update, not much, but an update none the less....

Cheers

@Superredeye - That Integy rear bumper looks mint

[PsyDom]

Hopefully I will be attending the MSUK rc jam in Alton this August. Given that this is 2 days of bashing and (primarily in my case) crashing, I figure I need to start seriously hoarding spares. So what would people recommend from they're own somewhat more heavy handed bashing experiences? (my trophy only ventures of the floor when I have to turn it right way up, so any jumps will be a very new and potentialy terrifyingly expensive experience)

Also, is anyone else going?

Yep.. I'll be there.. although at this rate I'm not sure the TT will be.. I've been waiting on shock rebuild kits from both Wheelspin and MSUK, I've decided it's a race.. who can take the longest. Being fair, Wheelspin has a big head start on MSUK buy 2 1/2 weeks.. at this rate I'll never get it fixed!

The weekend should be pretty epic from what I've seen.. I've not been out to the site myself yet (I live 15-20 min away) but I know the guys organising and they have a got both a good eye for a good bash spot and plenty of experience with this kind of thing.. If you can make it you should..

As for spares, I think I've got everything bar the driveshafts that Superredeye mentioned.. so in short, I'd agree with his suggestion..

[henzy190]

Hopefully I will be attending the MSUK rc jam in Alton this August. Given that this is 2 days of bashing and (primarily in my case) crashing, I figure I need to start seriously hoarding spares. So what would people recommend from they're own somewhat more heavy handed bashing experiences? (my trophy only ventures of the floor when I have to turn it right way up, so any jumps will be a very new and potentialy terrifyingly expensive experience)

Also, is anyone else going?

Suspension arms, suspension pins, wheel nuts, hubs, steering knuckles, body pins, stuff to clean the air filter with, plenty of spare screws, batteries, etc.

Basicly, everything.

[Oliyum]

Well that adds to my list somewhat =/

I'm suddenly aware that I'm not sure what the drive shaft conversion is. I had thought it was the same as the 17mm hex conversion, which I have done, do I need to take apart all that work I did over the gas hob trying to break down the thread lock from the original shafts? =(

[edgley]

Just got my replacement clutch bits in from WS.

I found this vid showing how to do a 2 piece one, but no 3's.

I also seem to have a load more little springs and things to worry about, is there a better video to show me what to do please?

[Arthyyyyyyy]

Just got my replacement clutch bits in from WS.

I found this vid showing how to do a 2 piece one, but no 3's.

I also seem to have a load more little springs and things to worry about, is there a better video to show me what to do please?

here you go

[Oliyum]

Just got my replacement clutch bits in from WS.

I found this vid showing how to do a 2 piece one, but no 3's.

I also seem to have a load more little springs and things to worry about, is there a better video to show me what to do please?

Just watched through a few vids on youtube, they aren't brilliant I'm afraid. I'll try to talk you through it, while stripping mine down and rebuilding. (I'm working from the start literaly from removing the engine assembly so skip ahead to wherever you're at)

Remove engine... yeah I know, sounds simple but the first few times I did this I kept forgetting for un couple the throttle linkage and broke the ball cup.

Ok, careful unscrew the retaining screw on the end of the clutch bell. this is holding a few washers and the clutch bell bearings so keep track of the order all this come off. there is another bearing inside the bell as well as some other washers.

You should now be looking at the clutch assembly on the flywheel. With needle/longnose pliers, remove the coil spring from around the shoes, and lift the shoes off the flywheel. you can now unscrew the clutch nut at the centre.

with the clutch nut off, the old 2 shoe flywheel can be removed and replaced with the shiny new 3 shoe flywheel, making sure the conical collet it sits on matches the recess at the back of the new flywheel (i'm pretty sure the HB 3 shoe flywheel matches the hpi original collet)

Now put a drop of threadlock (seriously, a drop! I've added "just a little more just to make sure" and destroyed bearings and allsorts) on the thread, and put the new clutch nut on the fly wheel, screw it down tight.

Now the fun starts. Slide one of the tiny itty bitty washers that came with the new shoe kit over each peg on the flywheel (these stop the shoe dragging across the surface of the flywheel, so they can engage with the clutch bell cleanly) Now, slide one shoe on a peg, so that the shoe points clockwise, but opens away from the centre of the fly wheel anticlockwise. With me? good, if you understood that explaination we're on good ground =) (alternatively, if the shoe has any logo printed on it, chances are I reckon that should be visible when the shoe is fitted, this is the case with my hong nor shoes)

Looking at the side of the shoe, you can see a groove and a slot, this is where the spring for each shoe will fit. it should also match up with a groove on the new clutchnut, again, where part of the spring will rest against.

Lift the shoe up just enough for you to be able to slide a spring into the slot. the long arm of the spring should rest on the outside groove of the shoe. here's the fiddly bit. you need to load the short arm of the spring so that it is pushed to the other side of the nut, closing the shoe tight against the nut (are you an octopus? no? shame, it really helps. there are tools to help with this. I dont have one, I used a small screw driver to lever the spring to the side) Now, with shoe, spring, screwdriver/pointy thing precariously in position, find a free hand to gently lower the whole lot down onto its peg for the last time (until you need to change the shoes...) when I say gently, I believe I somehow managed to manipulate a small hammer to bash it down before my fingers broke/turned to jelly.

Rinse, repeat two more times with the other shoes.

Hard part done!

Place the washers, bearing, clutchbell, bearing and washers (I think in that order) back on the shaft, replace retaining screw with a dab of threadlock, screw down so the bell still spins freely, et voila! all done.

Essay I know, but if any of it helps, excellent. If anyone sees issues with any of this, please let me know cos I dont want to be giving out bad advice.

Edited July 22, 2011 by Oliyum

[Oliyum]

Dammit! for the record I started writing the essay before you posted Arthy =/

[henzy190]

Dammit! for the record I started writing the essay before you posted Arthy =/

You forgot a bit too. Make sure that you put the shoes on the right way, it's easy to put them on the wrong way and very annoying...

[Oliyum]

You forgot a bit too. Make sure that you put the shoes on the right way, it's easy to put them on the wrong way and very annoying...

I did say this:

" Now, slide one shoe on a peg, so that the shoe points clockwise, but opens away from the centre of the fly wheel anticlockwise. With me? good, if you understood that explaination we're on good ground =) (alternatively, if the shoe has any logo printed on it, chances are I reckon that should be visible when the shoe is fitted, this is the case with my hong nor shoes)"

Its a bit buried in there I guess, or is there a more specific point I missed?

[edgley]

My gosh, thank you for taking the time to write all that out.

One thing, you say add a drop, but don't mention a drop of what; I am presuming thread lock?

thanks again!

will have a go whilst watching the F1 practices.

[Arthyyyyyyy]

Dammit! for the record I started writing the essay before you posted Arthy =/

LOL

[Oliyum]

My gosh, thank you for taking the time to write all that out.

One thing, you say add a drop, but don't mention a drop of what; I am presuming thread lock?

thanks again!

will have a go whilst watching the F1 practices.

Bugger, yes threadlock lol!

No worries bud, its about as productive as I can really get atm, and my clutch shoes needed filing so figured might as well be helpful to someone while I'm about it, everyone has been patient and helpful with me, time to pass it on now my knowledge is growing =)

[Arthyyyyyyy]

how do you rename topics?

[HUNTER.P]

how do you rename topics?

edit the first post, then click the "Use Full Editior" button, then you can change the title

[edgley]

Help needed again please.

Done 10 or so tanks, all without a single problem; was very pleased.

Then started having problems of it cutting out, so I thought I would start The Tune again.

I opened up the idle a gnats hair as I have been having to start it on full throttle trim and reset the other two.

Still need to start it with a lot of throttle trim, but it got going.

I got down to about 1.25 turns towards lean; right sort of temp, load of smoke still though.

However, when I gave it full throttle it was stalling and the running sound was wet and squelchy (best way I can describe it!)

I leaned it out a bit more, but still the same. Even richened it a bit more.

Then it just started stopping irrespective of throttle amount.

Help!

[henzy190]

I did say this:

" Now, slide one shoe on a peg, so that the shoe points clockwise, but opens away from the centre of the fly wheel anticlockwise. With me? good, if you understood that explaination we're on good ground =) (alternatively, if the shoe has any logo printed on it, chances are I reckon that should be visible when the shoe is fitted, this is the case with my hong nor shoes)"

Its a bit buried in there I guess, or is there a more specific point I missed?

Once again, the disadvantage of skimming over things too quickly has been shown.

I'm going to add your guide to the front page as well

...and give you member of the week

Help needed again please.

Done 10 or so tanks, all without a single problem; was very pleased.

Then started having problems of it cutting out, so I thought I would start The Tune again.

I opened up the idle a gnats hair as I have been having to start it on full throttle trim and reset the other two.

Still need to start it with a lot of throttle trim, but it got going.

I got down to about 1.25 turns towards lean; right sort of temp, load of smoke still though.

However, when I gave it full throttle it was stalling and the running sound was wet and squelchy (best way I can describe it!)

I leaned it out a bit more, but still the same. Even richened it a bit more.

Then it just started stopping irrespective of throttle amount.

Help!

That sounds bad! Firstly, have you done the clutch mod? A dragging clutch could be the problem if you haven't. EDIT: I scrolled up and it looks like you have.

Also, check the fuel lines, etc. for a leak, as they are a common problem. Basicly, are there air bubbles in the fuel line?

Apart from that I'm really not sure what you mean by "wet and squelchy." Try to go over everything in detail, I suppose the glow plug could be the problem? If you don't get the problem sorted and get stuck, then posting up a video of the car running (or trying to run) would help us to solve the problem.

Edited July 22, 2011 by henzy190

[edgley]

No, not done the clutch yet.

Yes, there is most defiantly a flow of bubbles along the fuel line.

Will grab a video of it running over the next two days.

Edited July 22, 2011 by edgley

[henzy190]

No, not done the clutch yet.

Yes, there is most defiantly a flow of bubbles along the fuel line.

Will grab a video of it running over the next two days.

Then there's probably a leak somewhere or you aren't priming it properly

Replace the fuel line and you should be ok

[autobutcher]

Sorry, haven't been on for a while, have i missed anything juicy?

[henzy190]

Sorry, haven't been on for a while, have i missed anything juicy?

Nothing much.

Although in forum news Assad made another attempt at scamming us. He Failed.

[edgley]

So I have done the clutch.

couple of problems. Couldn't find the brass conical thing, until I had rebuilt the whole thing; it was under my lap. Fortunately I do have a clutch tool, so now I have got the knack thats not the end of the world. And it also explains why the flywheel was loose on its shaft.

The old clutch shoes showed sign of wear, as did the nut.

My problem is that the old nut had a groove at the top of it where a C clip sat, the new nut has not this grove.

And then I discovered that the new bell wasn't deep enough to encompass the new clutch, nor is its holes big enough for the bearing to go into; I ordered the one off the front page of this thread.

Also should mention that I had to lift each shoe when putting the spring on, as I had to get the centre of the spring over the hole, this made it even more fiddly.

The shoes are pulled really tightly towards the centre pin, can just pull em out.

Any ideas please?

Edited July 22, 2011 by edgley

[autobutcher]

Is it worth changing the clutch bell to bigger/smaller just for bashing and can anyone recommend some suspension springs to stiffen up landings, fed up with it bottoming out. (pedo bear thread was great, lol'ed all evening!)