edgley

Okay, need some help please. My truggy has the K5.9 engine in it, with roto start. However, the back plate got loose and I lost it. I have been trying to buy a replacement, however, cannot seem to get one with the right size for the OWB, which appears to be 11mm not the 12mm stated. Anyone here have a link, UK, for somewhere that has the right one in stock please? Really wanna get this thing going again, rather than keep buying parts that should work, but do not. Many thanks.

Guess it is then. I was concerned about getting both of them extend by the same amount, but of course i don't have to do that. Thanks!

Hi, Upgraded up 4.6 to a 5.9. Seems to fit as stock, apart from its a tad too close, so it won't pass the paper test; indent very deep, almost torn. I cannot move it out any further that I currently have it. Any ideas how to get an extra 1mm sideways movement please? It the side effect of having too close just that the bell will wear out quicker? Really wanna go and give it its first run of the year tomorrow....

I have upgraded the Nitro to the HPI 59, and have added the JP4 pipe. The sound is amazing, you get the same burble as the F1 cars when you lift off throttle Any one else got this combo? The problem I have is that one of the springs that holds the pipe, the inner one, keeps coming off. Not only causing pressure leak (not sure if this is a problem on RC cars) but also sprays gunk everywhere. It looks like the front bar that holds the tip of the pipe in place isn't quite long enough and so pulls the pipe putting pressure on the springs.

I have the JP4 and the throttle off burble is fab.

Seems every site I find via google has closed down. Any proper places to go and spank 4x4 truggies around South West London out towards the M25? Cheers, Simon.

Hi, I have taken the crank off and removed the plate so I can see inside the engine. When I try to turn the shaft it rotates okay unit the piston rod gets half way. then it gets very sticky. It goes over the top point okay, but when it comes back down the other side it is sticky again. I guess this is engine totalled, I just have no idea how I did it, and that is what concerns me most.

No soon do I get it working, and it dies on me again! Was working fine last night. Went to start this morning and after a couple of pills the pull cord wouldn't come out.Fine, I thought, fuel lock. But no. I now have the engine out. When I move the fly wheel it will only go, a very little, in one direction, pulling in the pull cord. It won't move at all the other way. Any ideas please? Thanks,Simon.

I first bought fuel line that was too wide I now have bought one that is too narrow. Could I get a link to the right replacement fuel line please?

So one shim between clutch and bell; that caused the bell not to rotate smoothly, it needed some push to get it to rotate and it sounded slightly notchie. No shim between them and it rotates like its on teflon. Am I right in thinking that a shim shouldn't cover the whole bearing, as that joins in the inner and outer ring?

Man, still need some help with my clutch please. I have done the upgraded listed on the front page inc. the bell. My problem was that the bell wasn't turning once I had finished. I think that it was down to the washers being for the old bearings which are larger, so I ended up going back to the original bell. I ended up having clutch / bell / washer / washer / screw and the bell is freely turning. Next problem is that the truggy cuts out with the slightest touch of the accelerator.. I still have to start it with full trim on the throttle, and if I leave it, it will trundle around okay. Even go near the throttle and it dies. - Is this a clutch problem or something else please? - Does anyone have a link to the shims they used for the new bell? - Do a few bubble in the fuel hose matter? - As I am not a hardcore basher should I just go back to the stock clutch? Thank you

Following on form that shock question to mine. Anyone got a link to info about setting up shocks? How many spacers to use / when to move the mounting point That sort of thing. ty

This site is very cheap for all types of RC Batteries; have used them, very good service: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/

Thank you for the clutch info. I did think of measuring them myself, but if you could see the shelves in my room you would understand why I asked

My bad, sorry. I got the bell that is linked on the front page. Could I get a link to WS for the bearing please? Maybe the front page could be updated to included them too. Thanks, Simon.