edgley

Okay, need some help please. My truggy has the K5.9 engine in it, with roto start. However, the back plate got loose and I lost it. I have been trying to buy a replacement, however, cannot seem to get one with the right size for the OWB, which appears to be 11mm not the 12mm stated. Anyone here have a link, UK, for somewhere that has the right one in stock please? Really wanna get this thing going again, rather than keep buying parts that should work, but do not. Many thanks.

Guess it is then. I was concerned about getting both of them extend by the same amount, but of course i don't have to do that. Thanks!

Hi, Upgraded up 4.6 to a 5.9. Seems to fit as stock, apart from its a tad too close, so it won't pass the paper test; indent very deep, almost torn. I cannot move it out any further that I currently have it. Any ideas how to get an extra 1mm sideways movement please? It the side effect of having too close just that the bell will wear out quicker? Really wanna go and give it its first run of the year tomorrow....

I have upgraded the Nitro to the HPI 59, and have added the JP4 pipe. The sound is amazing, you get the same burble as the F1 cars when you lift off throttle Any one else got this combo? The problem I have is that one of the springs that holds the pipe, the inner one, keeps coming off. Not only causing pressure leak (not sure if this is a problem on RC cars) but also sprays gunk everywhere. It looks like the front bar that holds the tip of the pipe in place isn't quite long enough and so pulls the pipe putting pressure on the springs.

I have the JP4 and the throttle off burble is fab.

Seems every site I find via google has closed down. Any proper places to go and spank 4x4 truggies around South West London out towards the M25? Cheers, Simon.

Hi, I have taken the crank off and removed the plate so I can see inside the engine. When I try to turn the shaft it rotates okay unit the piston rod gets half way. then it gets very sticky. It goes over the top point okay, but when it comes back down the other side it is sticky again. I guess this is engine totalled, I just have no idea how I did it, and that is what concerns me most.

No soon do I get it working, and it dies on me again! Was working fine last night. Went to start this morning and after a couple of pills the pull cord wouldn't come out.Fine, I thought, fuel lock. But no. I now have the engine out. When I move the fly wheel it will only go, a very little, in one direction, pulling in the pull cord. It won't move at all the other way. Any ideas please? Thanks,Simon.

I first bought fuel line that was too wide I now have bought one that is too narrow. Could I get a link to the right replacement fuel line please?

So one shim between clutch and bell; that caused the bell not to rotate smoothly, it needed some push to get it to rotate and it sounded slightly notchie. No shim between them and it rotates like its on teflon. Am I right in thinking that a shim shouldn't cover the whole bearing, as that joins in the inner and outer ring?

Man, still need some help with my clutch please. I have done the upgraded listed on the front page inc. the bell. My problem was that the bell wasn't turning once I had finished. I think that it was down to the washers being for the old bearings which are larger, so I ended up going back to the original bell. I ended up having clutch / bell / washer / washer / screw and the bell is freely turning. Next problem is that the truggy cuts out with the slightest touch of the accelerator.. I still have to start it with full trim on the throttle, and if I leave it, it will trundle around okay. Even go near the throttle and it dies. - Is this a clutch problem or something else please? - Does anyone have a link to the shims they used for the new bell? - Do a few bubble in the fuel hose matter? - As I am not a hardcore basher should I just go back to the stock clutch? Thank you

Following on form that shock question to mine. Anyone got a link to info about setting up shocks? How many spacers to use / when to move the mounting point That sort of thing. ty

This site is very cheap for all types of RC Batteries; have used them, very good service: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/

Thank you for the clutch info. I did think of measuring them myself, but if you could see the shelves in my room you would understand why I asked

My bad, sorry. I got the bell that is linked on the front page. Could I get a link to WS for the bearing please? Maybe the front page could be updated to included them too. Thanks, Simon.

Guys, Could I get some help please as to why the clutch kit on page one doesn't seem to work please. The nut doesn't have a groove in the top to hold the c-clip, and the bearings are too large to fit in the new bell. thanks.

Okay, I can live without the c-clip, but the bearings are too large to fit inside the new bell. I guess I could go back to using the old bell.

So I have done the clutch. couple of problems. Couldn't find the brass conical thing, until I had rebuilt the whole thing; it was under my lap. Fortunately I do have a clutch tool, so now I have got the knack thats not the end of the world. And it also explains why the flywheel was loose on its shaft. The old clutch shoes showed sign of wear, as did the nut. My problem is that the old nut had a groove at the top of it where a C clip sat, the new nut has not this grove. And then I discovered that the new bell wasn't deep enough to encompass the new clutch, nor is its holes big enough for the bearing to go into; I ordered the one off the front page of this thread. Also should mention that I had to lift each shoe when putting the spring on, as I had to get the centre of the spring over the hole, this made it even more fiddly. The shoes are pulled really tightly towards the centre pin, can just pull em out. Any ideas please?

No, not done the clutch yet. Yes, there is most defiantly a flow of bubbles along the fuel line. Will grab a video of it running over the next two days.

Help needed again please. Done 10 or so tanks, all without a single problem; was very pleased. Then started having problems of it cutting out, so I thought I would start The Tune again. I opened up the idle a gnats hair as I have been having to start it on full throttle trim and reset the other two. Still need to start it with a lot of throttle trim, but it got going. I got down to about 1.25 turns towards lean; right sort of temp, load of smoke still though. However, when I gave it full throttle it was stalling and the running sound was wet and squelchy (best way I can describe it!) I leaned it out a bit more, but still the same. Even richened it a bit more. Then it just started stopping irrespective of throttle amount. Help!

My gosh, thank you for taking the time to write all that out. One thing, you say add a drop, but don't mention a drop of what; I am presuming thread lock? thanks again! will have a go whilst watching the F1 practices.

Just got my replacement clutch bits in from WS. I found this vid showing how to do a 2 piece one, but no 3's. I also seem to have a load more little springs and things to worry about, is there a better video to show me what to do please?

Ah, so the idle is a third control on the engine. I will check it out tomorrow, thanks. I have got that replacement clutch kit already, so will find how to put it together and swap it out.

Hi, I have put about 10 tanks through my new TT. Thought I had the tune done about right, but ran into some problems yesterday. I need to start the TT with the throttle trim set all the way up, this gets it started but also means it wants to zoom right off. I need to leave the throttle trim high until about a 1/3 of the way through the tank, when I can start winding it back. When I refuel I need to put it higher again just to get it started. Yesterday, even though it was right it kept stalling as soon as I gave it some throttle, even though it was working last time out. Also, how far are people turning their screws? I know it will be different for each person, I just wanted a rough idea of the range that it should be in. I guess I will need to put both back to factory and spend an hour in the park adjusting each one, again. thank, simon.

I read somewhere to fill the exhaust with steel wool. Might lose a little power but allegedly reduces noise.