GMballistic

Welcome aboard.

Most drag racing is all about the 2WD set up you're right although there is 4WD drag racing too but the ones of those I've seen were done with the Limitless, Infractions etc so a larger scale. "designed from the ground up"?! That's a bit of a laugh really ~ same layout as the Mi6 and lot's of other touring type cars so doesn't look like a lot they had to design really.

It's a strange one isn't it, ...4WD touring car kit as you say on the box but then it has a wheelie bar and is obviously being aimed at drag racers going from the name. Bodyshell design is also more GT/pan car design. Overall I like it. The chassis is very similar to a Schumacher Mi6 I used to own which was a great layout. Motor mount options seem a great idea too.

From personal experience my recommendation would be an Arrma Typhon 6S. Covers everything you've asked for above. For your budget you can get the Arrma buggy, a suitable lipo battery charger, a 6S battery, lipo safety charging bag, batteries for the remote and have some change for extra tyres/spares when you need them.

Look forward to seeing what colour choices you decide to go with.

Look forward to seeing some more pics of it then @capri-boy when you get a chance.

You should be considerate of others obviously but even so unless it's private land or land where RC's are prohibited you have the right to enjoy yourself & your hobby. I'm a dog owner/walker and I've no issues with people using their RC's where I walk or doing other hobbies nearby as long as it doesn't endanger me or my dog it's fine by me. You'll unfortunately always get the odd person who takes satisfaction in sticking their nose where it doesn't belong or arguing with strangers over petty things. Is it , nitro, petrol or electric? Petrol and nitro imho seem to attract more annoyance from people purely because of the noise/fumes etc. Google maps is a great place to search for large open areas to go ~ also try searching for mountain bike trails maybe. Good luck.

So what scale is it @capri-boy ? Is it a 1/7th scale then? What I particularly like is the exhaust set up on it. 😎 I never like the side exit exhausts on nitros. From my own experiences of them I think it is a horrible position as quite often I've found with the position of the pull start too it forces you to have the exhaust going off in your face. It also causes mess down the side of the bodyshell a lot of the time too as well as on the rear tyre. Thankfully looking at your nitro you won't have any of those issues.

@Ant.p I use Tamiya paints and Fastrax paints. Tamiya paints are better but you don't get as much in a spray can compared to Fastrax ones which are also cheaper for the larger can. When I've been painting large shells or with multiple colours that's when I've used Fastrax paints as it can get super expensive using Tamiya paints when you need multiple cans. An easy enough thing for anyone to do with spray painting to make their shells look more unique is with the use of pre-cut vinyl masking. It's a lot easier to use then cutting out shapes or designs from A4 masking sheet (Tamiya n#87130) but that is also another option. Vinyl masking designs here that I have used before: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154487933730?hash=item23f832cb22:g:uLIAAOSwm-xgwfxZ For that paint finish on the 8ight truggy it was basically this if you ever want to try similar yourself; Wash the body with luke warm soapy water and dry with paper towels/kitchen roll. Mask off windows and areas I wanted to be fluorescent yellow. Spray painted 6 light coats of Tamiya PS-46 ensuring a nice even coverage (do not go on too heavy). Allow to dry between coats. Spray painted 6+ light coats of Tamiya PS-5 ensuring full coverage with no see through areas ~ hold up to a light to see. Add more coats of black if needed. Allow to dry. Remove fluorescent yellow masking carefully (leave window masking in place!). Spray painted 6+ light coats of Tamiya PS-27 concentrating on clear areas of the body shell. Allow to dry. Spray painted 6+ light coats of Tamiya PS-1 (white makes the fluorescent really pop) over the entire shell. Allow to dry. Once paint is dry remove window masking and outer shell over spray protector.

Welcome aboard. Can't beat a Tamiya for a good fun kit to build together ~ durability wise though lots beat them as you know but no RC is invincible. I think of the two you mentioned I'd go for the Blitzer Beetle. Start there and see where it leads you both.

Plus one. 😎 Been working on several of my cars but mainly enjoying doing some little mods to my Losi SBR 2.0 truck. Decided to try taping the insides of the tyres to try to stop them ballooning as much and whilst they were apart I painted the bead locks blue. Unfortunately the colour is a little lighter than I was going for but it's my own fault as I used a white plastic primer when really grey would have been better. Still a nice bit of colour and tbh it is kind of close to the blue on the King shocks. Crazy how long they took to reassemble though even with an electric screwdriver ~ over an hour and a quarter to do 6 wheels/tyres!

Looks great quality.

Payment received and the truggy package is on it's way to @Ant.p thank you. 😁 Mods/Admin you can close/lock this whenever you're ready. Thank you for the use of the forum for sales area.

Provisionally sold pending the normal receipt of payment/exchange of items ~ will update as soon as all complete thanks Mods/Admin.

Thanks for the interest all so far. @Ant.p has first dibs currently but will update this thread if it sells to him or not. Thank you.

SOLD For sale here is my mint condition Losi 8ight 2.0 1/8th scale truggy. It started life as a "Competition Nitro Truggy kit" but has since been converted to run a brushless motor kit. No expense has been spared on this and honestly I challenge anyone to find one this good. Full spec; Originally a nitro kit converted to brushless electric using part n#LOSA0912. Mod 1 metal gears with 46T main metal spur gear on centre differential. Differentials use a 10T pinion with 43T spur. Proline Caliber VTR tyres (140mm tyre diameter). Front and rear shocks fully serviced/like new ~ with 1K CST silicone oil. 100K Silicone oil in centre upgrade heavy duty differential. 15K silicone oil in front standard differential and 10K silicone oil in rear upgrade heavy duty differential. Fitted with; · Aluminium adjustable rear hinge pin brace (LOSA1755) · Aluminium adjustable front hinge pin brace (LOSA1754) · Aluminium front chassis brace (LOSA4416) · Aluminium rear chassis brace (LOSA4417) · Aluminium front top brace (LOSA4440) · TLR aluminium front & rear diff pinion coupler (TLR3502) · TLR aluminium shock ends (TLR5435) · TLR aluminium front & rear CV driveshaft axles (TLR3500) · Savox SW-1210SG digital coreless waterproof servo 30kg (SW-1210SG) ~ RRP £65 bought new · Rear HD lightened outdrive cups (LOSA3553) on rear differential · Various stainless steel nuts, bolts & washers · DE Racing rear skid plate (DER-210-L) · DE Racing rear mudguards (DER-110-LT) · Hobbywing Ezrun Max8 ESC combo with 2200KV (4274) brushless motor ~ RRP £152 bought new · Aluminium motor heat sink with WTF Turbo fan · Hobbywing cap pack (pre-wired in by myself to protect from voltage drops) · Team Losi Racing 3.0 body shell (TLR240006) professionally painted by myself with a "Tron" inspired paint job featuring Tamiya Iridescent purple/green paint which flips depending on the angle you look at it. This has run a 70mph speed run pass on it's current set up using a 6S lipo (20T pinion/46T spur gear) on road so is very fast. I will supply the truggy complete as pictured with it's 2.4GHz 3 channel remote control which is an Ikonnik ET3. All you will need to run the truggy is batteries for the electrics : 4S or 6S lipo and (x4) AA batteries for the remote control. Any questions or offers please feel free to ask. Genuine reason for sale as need to add some cash to a wedding fund to cover venue costs so this is what I decided to part with. It's difficult to put an exact price on what is a used item like this but yet is in as almost new condition imho bar a few marks here & there with a lot of expensive extras (you never get back what you spend I know). To start ~ Asking for £350 ONO including delivery and PayPal fees. Price is negotiable. Please call "dibs" in this thread if interested and follow up with a PM to myself to discuss price, payment, postage or any other questions. Thank you.

@Nick My Mrs suffers from Fibromyalgia which is a chronic pain condition. It causes widespread pain/aches in the body as well as tiredness. Unfortunately there is no cure and all my Mrs can do is manage her pain as best as she can with coping methods, medication, rest and specific gentle exercise. Their charities are often not even on peoples radars so I am sure any little donation towards helping would be appreciated. Link: https://www.fmauk.org/ Just to add really liked @Alex97 idea for a charity donation.

You're very welcome. Glad I could help.

@James.S Great looking garage to use and nice collection. Regarding keeping the wheels off the ground it is important but no need to buy expensive stands. For most of my RC's I just use "Yoga blocks" as they're cheap and can be easily cut so depending on the size of the RC a single block can work for two RC's once cut in half. Yoga block ~ Link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384074459403?hash=item596c9f290b:g:jVgAAOSw8OZgZsAH

Thanks. The Typhon I feel I have set up perfectly for me. I've so much confidence in driving it and have a lot of time invested in driving it too. I ended up plateauing in the 120's at the event though as the Typhon needed gearing up, ...tried to gear up but had reached the maximum adjustment on the motor mount so needed to change my spur which is a bigger job to do. Did start to do it but noticed though that my front centre driveshaft was hitting or had been hitting the front servo mount so the shaft is obviously bent. Bought some Scorched RC titanium centre driveshafts for it yesterday so will be back at it next year even harder than this year. 😀

Short video of some of my passes at ROSSA from the August event.

1/12th is very satisfying to get going fast but I know @pieman5 will agree with me as another person running the "mini class" at ROSSA one of the most difficult things is getting things to fit within the available chassis space you have as well as getting suitable bodyshells to fit. Also as @Redbackmentioned a good road surface is so important for the smaller scales. The larger the scale typically the easier it is to get things to fit as well as easier to run as less effected by debris on the road, uneven surfaces etc. Also I wouldn't discount a buggy either, ...I know you said you want a road car but you can get some pretty decent buggies which with some adjustments, a different bodyshell and some outboard style battery trays are every bit as fast as the "on-road specific" cars. Have a good think before you buy whatever you decide.

Just spotted this now so decided to order a set of original blue stickers. 😏 I think the "denim" ones look pretty good considering they were a messed up batch. Definitely have an interesting worn patina effect.

Thanks, just need the weather to play ball now, ...leaving tomorrow so getting excited now.

I'm going @Nick running 3 cars; my Arrma Typhon (6S), Arrma Limitless (8S) and my Serpent S120 LTX (3S). Hoping for some new PB's for all 3. 😎 I know from here @pieman5 is going as well as @Redback .