Relativenewbyseb

If I were you I'd reinforce that body quick![emoji14]They do tend to rip them apart either with wheelies catching the back of the shell or just flipping/jumping

Well on my fs I use nanda block tyres on the rear but replaced the wheels and foams with some I had from a job lot of 2nd hand buggy tyres, that's for off road then on road I use the tyres I got in the job lot as they whilst being good tyres for a 4wd racing buggy aren't great on grass or anything with the fs This is with mip 17mm hex conversion though as it's easy to find racers 2nd hand buggy wheels for cheap then it doesn't matter if they last a little less time

Simple answer is that really you can't get one that will last a while on road whilst providing any grip off road, most get destroyed in 5 minutes on tarmac

Yeah that was just a passing question really haha But yep as I stated the run time will be the same (if not very slightly less with the 2 batteries due to more wiring etc)

What are you running it in, but I'm assuming you mean 2x 3s which would then be in series to get them up to 6s voltage You double the voltage when in series, capacity stays at 5000mah, you double the capacity in parallel but voltage stays the same Just a note it's the same with all batteries...

I'm not sure on the absima stuff but what does the manual say? Most escs have either a program card to change settings or you can do it via a method of beeps and lights, or both I would still check as better to be safe than sorry

Usually the accepted value is you don't want it to go below 3v per cell at all costs, 3.4v is a nice happy medium between that and storage voltage Depends on what the esc is like in terms of voltage calibration... For example I have a hobbywing Sc8 known for being too early to cut off, it's set on 2.8v per cell yet they come off at 3.4/3.5

It's not entirely suited to brushless though is it? I'd imagine you could rip it apart with too much power haha A mild system on 2s should be fine though I guess

The actual tyres have been great for me though,just the wheels and foams aren't great for brushless

Vapextech are good batteries and are cheaper usually than hpi packs, I've still got some going strong... plus you could get them even bigger than 3300 Also a more expensive option but future proof too for a charger would be this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsp-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-charger-with-fan/rc-car-products/379060&PageOnly=1 Can do lipos if you change or move up in the hobby and is well known

I used them until they came unglued, was very quick. .. then re glued and soon the hex had rounded! So I put them on a set of old wheels with some proper foams and they've been fantastic since I used the boil off method to get the tires by themselves

Well in short imo the rustler wins in terms of parts support, proven (if a little dated) design, and durability However I can't write off the ecx as I don't really know anything about it although I think they're getting better Brushless would usually be better than not, and depending on how/where it'll be driven could affect whether you want 4wd/2wd

You can use as big a capacity as you like, the bigger the capacity generally=the bigger the run time however they get heavy! Plus take ages to charge. .. That's another advantage of lipo is that they will happily charge at 2c whereas you don't really want to go over 1c with a nimh as they can get warm 2c being 5a for 2500mah batt, 1c being 2.5a But yeah as big a capacity as you want, it won't provide too many amps for the esc if that's what you mean

That brings back memories... I had that happen a lot until I got steel diff internals unfortunately

Right here is a good charger that usually gets recommended http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsp-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-charger/rc-car-products/379060 A 2s 7.4v lipo would be good to get as the standard esc should be fine with it, on the hobbyking website you can then spec the size to fit inside the cars battery compartment and anything around 5000mah will do great, lipos need slightly more care but there is a whole guide on here on them ... I'm not sure if the standard esc will have a low voltage cutoff (lvc) buy if not then you can get a lvc alarm that plugs in for about 5 quid max This is needed to stop lipos dropping below 3/3.2v a cell which is bad for them Another simple solution for more performance that I forgot to mention is changing gearing slightly depending on what you want, if it's more top end or more acceleration?

Hi mate and welcome aboard! What you've got id say is a decent truck for your son to start out with yes as long as he doesn't bash it too hard, a reasonable number have had or do have them so can give you advice Hop ups wise I'm assuming your kid will want shiny alloy however usually it's not the best as it transfers stress to a different part, where plastic bends and bends back, alu will generally not and could transfer it to a more expensive part to replace! However it can also be good to solve a recurring breakage or apply some bling to certain parts just not arms haha Modelsport may stock some however I don't know personally You can go as high as you like with battery mah as long as it'll fit in the car, guessing it's nimh still? Lipo is the more modern tech and gives more speed due to slightly higher voltage but mostly due to less weight.. hobbyking is the place to go for batteries if you do go lipo In terms of charger hobbyking is good once again, look for something capable of 5a+ and also 80w+ (sorry the name of the highly recommended charger available at modelsport slips my memory but someone will pop up with it soon!!) Big thing with charger is make sure it can charge lipo even if you don't use them yet as if you happen to get other models you may end up needing to be able to charge them Run time improvements can be achieved by a mild brushless system (esc +motor) as they are more efficient, this will also increase performance Runtime can also be increased by a higher mah battery as you've already gone for, and as previously mentioned going to lipo will help both too

Go in the subforums section and go through that by different category it falls into☺there should be a thread for them or similar models, or there is a general electric thread to ask questions in☺ Pictures always help people identify things too for you if unsure

You'd probably want to stick to 2s in the carnage so that you get prolonged fun and not short lived lunacy ? 2 2s batteries can be had for around 10/15 quid each from hobbyking, esc and motor combo anywhere from around 40 quid upwards, think hobbyking has reasonable starter ones but check what other people are using in theirs too I guess, there will be numerous cheap finned can combos which are ok for lighter models but possibky may have heat issues with the 4wd and larger wheels

I've got a similar question as I want a nearly locked diff on my fs, I run on 3s only so if on wet grass or low grip surface I lose traction and spin out way too easily if not I have tried using blu tac to almost completely lock it and it had been working for a few months but stopped just before I went to uni so left it in the garage... now I'm back I took it apart to check what's wrong and all the internal gears of the diff are cracked into tiny bit and pieces !! So I probably wouldn't suggest blu tac for diff locking haha but what kinda weight oil would be good?

Yes I can confirm they were made of a lovely soft cheese, however as mentioned steel was available then and I think might be standard now, For your fault bear in mind it could just be the drive cups from the spur to the front or on the front diff as they came undone quite often for me at the start, make sure to use threadlock and get them properly tightened down on the flat bit of the shaft

Just in case anyone wanted to see a clueless yank with his xmaxx... first 3 minutes are funny enough when he can't think of how the pinion was made https://youtu.be/TbDiIzcVyIs

Is it not to charge more than one lipo at once? I thought that might be the external balance boards use

Quick question what made you buy it if you didn't know if it was good?[emoji14] But yes they are very popular and have endless upgrades in terms of performance and bling

Hopefully tamiyacowboy will see this as from what I've seen he has a bit of experience with bikes I think... Prepare yourself for small story like essays as well which are always a good informative read [emoji12] [emoji106]

My first thought when reading this is that your steering set up is slightly stiff or getting stuck somewhere, make sure it all works freely and smoothly without the servo attached the servo could have enough power to turn it but then as it returns it can't turn a stiff steering set up all the way back, so could actually be the servo instead but best to check the cheapest option first