Jump to content

themissingelf

Members
  • Posts

    195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bromley, Kent.
  • RC Cars
    HoBao Pirate 10 Buggy (Nitro), Traxxas Slash 4x4 (Brushless), Wraith, Toyota 40 Land Cruiser CC-01, Gelande II D90.
  • How did you find this forum?
    Search

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

themissingelf's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • Collaborator Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

32

Reputation

  1. I can't say I've had a lot of experience. Took advice from another member when I built my Axial Wraith and was very pleased with GoolRC 35t brushed with a 1060. Since used an RC4WD 35t brushed with 1080 on a Gelande D90 - also v.good. Just finishing an Axial SCX10.2 and using the GoolRC again, this time with a 1080 (originally bought a 1060 but decided to upgrade to get the extra settings). As I say, not a huge amount of experience with others bit not left wanting for anything with the ones I have tried.
  2. Hi. Welcome! Rebuilding a Sand Scorcher... I always wanted one when I was a kid 😁
  3. Thank you. Much appreciated. I couldn't see the front of the housings to check the screw configuration but I'll work something out if it's not the same.
  4. Having gone round the houses on spec for my son's FTX Outback we decided to order the original motor to replace the broken one... Seems as though it went out of stock with a wait until 15th May for delivery... Looking now for an (affordable) alternative. The FTX has a bracket that fits to the front of the motor, using the 2 screw holes shown in this picture. Is the presence and location of these screw holes standard across all brushed motors? Thanks. (Any recommendations on motor (pref from Modelsport because that's where the current backorder is placed...) welcome!) It's a 15 turn but not adverse to something a little slower (to reduce the frequency my son seems to break the car!)
  5. If anyone has any thoughts on an affordable source for a standard Gelande D90 (spare) wheel and tyre and also ideas on how to fit it to the back of the RC4WD D90 body I'd be grateful.
  6. Thanks all - I've been pleased with the 1080 fitted to my RC4WD so I guess I should make the switch for the SCX10.2 and then, perhaps, fit the 1060 to the Tamiya CC01 or my son's FTX Outlaw (or save it for when I succumb to buying a non-crawler / road car) 😆...
  7. Am I going to regret ordering the Hobbywing 1060 instead of the 1080 for my SCX10.2??? As far as I can tell, the most significant difference is the lack of a drag brake?
  8. Thanks. Useful information. 18t doesn't sound as though it would be much different to the standard 15t? I use 35t in a few cars and not experienced a problem - is it something about the Outlaw that makes it less suitable?
  9. So the verdict is in... Motor is knackered... Also stripped off a few other parts that did not fare well and rust treated everything else. All other electrics are OK. So my next question is viability of converting the FTX Outlaw to a crawler? Seeming as I have to replace the motor and I'm also in to some new springs too, I'm wondering whether it is viable to convert to a crawler with a 35T(?) motor? The current one is a 550 15T but I'm hoping I can get away with a 540? The main reason for converting is because my son has been enjoying my CC01 Land Cruiser 40 but would like something more capable. Cannot decide whether I should convert the FTX or invest in a crawler for him (something "affordable" - especially as he reversed the CC01 into the pond today because he didn't realise he had his finger on the trigger! 🤦‍♂️) He is drawn to the scale look so the FTX may not quite be what he's after in any case...
  10. We, erm, did set out with the best of intentions but, erm, the temptation of the shallow pools kinda got the better of us... One of those "I'm sure it will be fine......" moments. Lesson learnt - no amount of WD40 and similar seems to have stopped the rust. I think I'm actually going to have to use some rust treatment on the metalwork if I get the electrics back running. It's an FTX so thankfully not an expensive mistake.
  11. Great. Thank you. A couple of AAs vs a 7 cell Ni-MH - glad I checked 😀. I'm planning to check the rest of the electrics by connecting the ESC motor outputs to another car to see if it powers the other car's motor. And also plug a servo I've got lying around into the RXs servo output. Seems the car didn't like being driven through salty water 🙄.
  12. Hi. Potentially daft question... Is there any reason not to connect a battery directly to a brushed motor to check whether it works?
  13. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take a look at those. Much appreciated!
  14. My son is a bit of a reluctant maker... I'm reasonably convinced that once he has some success he'll get the bug. I originally thought of getting him a modestly priced Tamiya kit but when I looked back at the instructions for my CC01 Land Cruiser 40 I realised they are quite overwhelming. I'm assuming all Tamiya kits will be similar, with multi language instructions for every step. Anyone have any recommendations for affordable, well illustrated kit builds? Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...