themissingelf

I can't say I've had a lot of experience. Took advice from another member when I built my Axial Wraith and was very pleased with GoolRC 35t brushed with a 1060. Since used an RC4WD 35t brushed with 1080 on a Gelande D90 - also v.good. Just finishing an Axial SCX10.2 and using the GoolRC again, this time with a 1080 (originally bought a 1060 but decided to upgrade to get the extra settings). As I say, not a huge amount of experience with others bit not left wanting for anything with the ones I have tried.

Hi. Welcome! Rebuilding a Sand Scorcher... I always wanted one when I was a kid 😁

Thank you. Much appreciated. I couldn't see the front of the housings to check the screw configuration but I'll work something out if it's not the same.

Having gone round the houses on spec for my son's FTX Outback we decided to order the original motor to replace the broken one... Seems as though it went out of stock with a wait until 15th May for delivery... Looking now for an (affordable) alternative. The FTX has a bracket that fits to the front of the motor, using the 2 screw holes shown in this picture. Is the presence and location of these screw holes standard across all brushed motors? Thanks. (Any recommendations on motor (pref from Modelsport because that's where the current backorder is placed...) welcome!) It's a 15 turn but not adverse to something a little slower (to reduce the frequency my son seems to break the car!)

This is what I'm after...

If anyone has any thoughts on an affordable source for a standard Gelande D90 (spare) wheel and tyre and also ideas on how to fit it to the back of the RC4WD D90 body I'd be grateful.

Thanks all - I've been pleased with the 1080 fitted to my RC4WD so I guess I should make the switch for the SCX10.2 and then, perhaps, fit the 1060 to the Tamiya CC01 or my son's FTX Outlaw (or save it for when I succumb to buying a non-crawler / road car) 😆...

Am I going to regret ordering the Hobbywing 1060 instead of the 1080 for my SCX10.2??? As far as I can tell, the most significant difference is the lack of a drag brake?

Thanks. Useful information. 18t doesn't sound as though it would be much different to the standard 15t? I use 35t in a few cars and not experienced a problem - is it something about the Outlaw that makes it less suitable?

So the verdict is in... Motor is knackered... Also stripped off a few other parts that did not fare well and rust treated everything else. All other electrics are OK. So my next question is viability of converting the FTX Outlaw to a crawler? Seeming as I have to replace the motor and I'm also in to some new springs too, I'm wondering whether it is viable to convert to a crawler with a 35T(?) motor? The current one is a 550 15T but I'm hoping I can get away with a 540? The main reason for converting is because my son has been enjoying my CC01 Land Cruiser 40 but would like something more capable. Cannot decide whether I should convert the FTX or invest in a crawler for him (something "affordable" - especially as he reversed the CC01 into the pond today because he didn't realise he had his finger on the trigger! 🤦‍♂️) He is drawn to the scale look so the FTX may not quite be what he's after in any case...

We, erm, did set out with the best of intentions but, erm, the temptation of the shallow pools kinda got the better of us... One of those "I'm sure it will be fine......" moments. Lesson learnt - no amount of WD40 and similar seems to have stopped the rust. I think I'm actually going to have to use some rust treatment on the metalwork if I get the electrics back running. It's an FTX so thankfully not an expensive mistake.

Great. Thank you. A couple of AAs vs a 7 cell Ni-MH - glad I checked 😀. I'm planning to check the rest of the electrics by connecting the ESC motor outputs to another car to see if it powers the other car's motor. And also plug a servo I've got lying around into the RXs servo output. Seems the car didn't like being driven through salty water 🙄.

Hi. Potentially daft question... Is there any reason not to connect a battery directly to a brushed motor to check whether it works?

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take a look at those. Much appreciated!

My son is a bit of a reluctant maker... I'm reasonably convinced that once he has some success he'll get the bug. I originally thought of getting him a modestly priced Tamiya kit but when I looked back at the instructions for my CC01 Land Cruiser 40 I realised they are quite overwhelming. I'm assuming all Tamiya kits will be similar, with multi language instructions for every step. Anyone have any recommendations for affordable, well illustrated kit builds? Thanks

Thank you. I'd overlooked the risk of torque twist... I get the point about adjusting the front right spring rate but now you've mentioned torque twist it has reminded me of how frustrating I found it in a previous car. Maybe I'll run with a stock set up to start off with - just so I know my start point, and then go from there with soft springs and change of oil.

Just about to start building my Axial SCX10.2 and really want to get the scale suspension effect right. For my past builds I've found the suspension is a little too stiff and, whilst perfectly effective, loses some of the scale realism as the truck bobs along over relatively smooth ground rather than have the suspension take out some of the bumps. When it comes to larger obstacles the articulation in the suspension forces the shocks into action but I'm more about trail than rock crawling. There seems to be many thoughts on how to build shocks from no oil, using grease instead of oil, thinner oils. Also adding to the sprung weight of the truck. Has anyone used any or some of these methods and able to advise on the pros, cons, and effectiveness? Also, in stock form, how good are the SCX10.2 kit shocks? Thanks

Thanks for sharing. A very useful perspective.

Thanks. My son's steering goes until the battery is recharged, even though the battery still has power to drive the car. Perhaps something different.

Erring towards the SCX10.2 . The TRX4 is definitely a strong candidate from a technical and competency point of view but the Axial just seems to capture my interest more. The GMade trucks have always made it on to my shortlist and a good looking trucks but for reasons I can't quite explain tend to slip down the desirability list.

Thanks for the input. Is a "brown out" characterised by, for example, a loss of steering as the battery runs down? My son runs a FTX and often loses the ability to steer as the first sign the battery is running low. (We both us NiMH batteries if that is relevant?).

I've always followed the suggestion to use a separate BEC (Castle BEC in my case); however... If the Hobbywing Quickrun BEC goes up to 6v and the PowerHD LW20 servo I use operates at 6v, why do I need an independant BEC? Grateful as ever of advice and guidance. Thanks

In times like these it's common to commandeer resources... I may be re-scaping the garden whilst my wife is not looking and then blame my son...

I had flirted with the SCX 3 but thought it was over £400. Perhaps I looked at RTR. Will check as I do quite like it!

Anticipating needing something to do 🤨 and eyeing up another build (c. £300 budget for the kit). Generally in the market for a something like a Baja desert racer (Axial RR10 Bomber appealed in the past) or a scale trail 4x4. Currently own a RC4WD Gelande D90, Tamiya Land Cruiser 40 CC01 and a Slash 4x4. Considering, for example, Axial SCX10 II, GMade GS01 or GS02 (quite like the BOM version but can't say I genuinely understand what it is), Traxxas TRx4 Sport. Built and sold a Wraith in the past - not looking to repeat the rock crawler genre so discounting the Capra unless there's a good reason to reconsider? Also owned a Vaterra Ascender in the past (RTR) but was quickly over it due to the torque twist. Welcome any thoughts or observations. It's been a while since I shopped for a kit! Thanks