Yugaman

***UPDATE*** I did not receive a refund as the damage was 'driver error'. Looks like another £100 down the pan... I'm leaving the hobby for good, I haven't got a job so I cannot keep paying for repairs and sub-par equipment, but this means that I'm selling my BL Rustler now. If you live in or near North Yorkshire and can drive a full scale car, give us a private message and we'll sort something out. Many thanks to all those who helped me on this forum, this will most likely be my last message on here... Yugaman out

In hindsight, I should have just stopped when the first accident happened. I have a Rustler and that thing takes a pounding and the shock tower was the last thing to break, so I presumed that the shock tower on the ion would hold up. The first roll didn't look bad either, just a straight roll. I guess I can't see internal plastic warping/breaking but I don't know. At least repairs are moderately cheap as it's all 1:18 scale Thanks for all the help so far everyone!

I guess I do get what I pay for, but I paid for a working car! I am using it as a base and the only reason I bought this model in particular is because of it's reviews on how durable it was, like whatPraet0r87 said... I'll pop over to the shop on Saturday and speak to them then. My guess is that my particular model is a manufacturing defect. Also, it appears another part has broken. My front body mount point shot off while I was driving it... Another replacement needed..... Again, I'm not a bad driver, and no crashes have happened so I wonder why this keeps happening. I might just leave RC for a year or so. I did it before with my Carnage that I spent £340 on (I kept all the receipts) and I'll gladly do it again if it means I'm wiser and stuff. And besides, I'll actually have income by then!

Haven't seen you before, hi I went in to the actual ModelsportUK shop and bought it there if that makes a difference.

Hello all, If you've ever seen me on here before, you'll know about how I had an FTX Carnage and it broke when you looked at it wrong. Well, this is happening again, and I don't really want to throw lots and lots of money into something that just eats it up. I have been looking at getting myself a Maverick Ion XB for myself since christmas for a nice little 1:18 scale megajump project and I bought it on Saturday. I had waited so long because I wanted to make sure I didnt spend £100s on a car that spends more time broken than fixed. So I bought it, took it home and as I was taking it out for the first time on an empty flat space, less than ten seconds into my run I roll it because it locked full right steering (I didn't do this, I presumed radio error). It smashed up the front left shock and nothing else. No visible damage except a messed up shock. I ordered two more shocks and fitted them today. Everything is looking good, right? Wrong. I put the car down and give it some throttle down the drive, not much, maybe jogging speed. I see a front shock pop out, and it turned out to be the whole front shock tower... No damage, no collisions, it just broke. I have had this car for about 5 days and it has spent just 40ish seconds running. I fully understand that I am about as credible as any old stranger on the internet and could be lying just for free parts, but should you believe my story, am I within my rights to claim a refund? I was denied one for my carnage as I had upgraded parts. This Ion is fully stock except the brand new Maverick-branded shock I have fitted. Sorry for the rant and race on!

So I was out on a run with my friend and after absolutely nailing a bowl run (also known as going round a giant dish really fast), my car just stopped. The servo still worked, but no throttle or reverse. At first I assumed a motor cable had popped out and the fix would be easy but the esc is just dead. No tune plays when I turn it on and only a blue LED shows, whereas normally both blue and red would. I tried the esc in an FTX Edge but the same happened. The motor is 100% fine and the servo and receiver are good too, but why isnt the esc? It is not even warm, we just set out and this happened after about 5 minutes. I just bought this esc new from MS less than a week ago

I have a 12T Titan motor from at Traxxas Rustler XL-5 and it's accompanying esc. I was wondering if MS buy parts off customers? I also have the stock brushed motor and esc and servo from an FTX Edge too, with transciever too.

Yeah I had seen that, might be a good idea to pick one up. Would the alternate bodies like the tessmann one or the hpi f1 car one fit on the standard baja, or has the actual chassic changed with the newer models?

Not a terrible idea dazp! Might need one myself should things go awry with my setup

£10? Impressive! I used to have a Carnage which is essentially a reshelled Vantage and I noticed that this was a problem with NiMHs after I went to brushless, but as LiPos just die when they reach lvc it just stopped with that. Also dazp has just suggested a pretty good solution.

Hello everyone. I recently made a little blunder, by applyng stickers to my little Q32 BEFORE removing the plastic protective film and now I wonder how I could do such a thing. I now have a blank black Baja Q32 and no decals, so I was wondering if you can paint them? If so, with what paint? And brings me to another question: Can you buy custom bodies for the Q32 (preferably coloured ones so I can distinguish mine from my friend's while we're driving :P) Many thanks!

You're all so helpful, thanks for these posts. I have fiddles with the ESC like mad now, but the lvc is staying at 3.0V unfortunately... Luckily, my good RC friend gave me his cell checker and every five or so mins of runtime I check the voltages. It seems LiPo technology has improved, because I started a run at 4.17V/cell and after a 20 minute run and a 3 mile walk across town, the cells were at 3.57V and 3.58V!!! That's pretty impressive, but I must say I was taking it easy, bearing in mind it was my first brushless run since last october or sometime. I will adventure further into the Absima manuals, but since they are natively german, the english translations are a bit 'off'.Thankfully I study german

Oh ok, because my pack gave no instructions on how to change it..... I'll just have to hope that the 3.0V was a typo and they meant to put 3.4V Still, at least it has a low voltage cutoff(!)

Hello Modelsport Fans! I have finally graduated from the university of brushed power and have started my three year course on training at the school of brushless. Jokes aside, I'm back on brushless LiPo power! I bought an Absima brushless kit and now my little Rustler's going to be that little bit beefier. I do have one question though and that is: How do I set my lvc higher? It's at 3.0V/cell and from previous experience that's waaay to low. I do acknowledge that there is a big LiPo thread here at MSUK but I've seen so much contradictory info to the point where I'm not sure what's right... I have the Absima ThrustV2 and a 45C 2S 4500mAh Nvision LiPo. some people say it needs to be up at 3.4V, others say no damage actually happens until you hit 2.5V, but I just don't know