locky

I've installed custom firmware on GT3B and GT3C and your previous settings will be overwritten.

Depends if you want to try and get it going and if it was running well last time. Take the cooling head off and the head button with glow plug. You can then hopefully see down into the crankcase, unless stuck at TDC, if you can then fill it with some fresh nitro fuel and leave it over night. If still not turning over then take backplate off, try heating engine, spray WD40, and use flywheel to turn it over, rocking back/forth. Usually the residual nitro oil dries up in a stored engine. I've recently got a Fastrax Enduro 21 engine and performs well in a 1/8 buggy and dont see why it wouldnt fit.

Personally I think C ratings are made up numbers as there isnt a standard method to determine this rating. I assume you are using about a 2000Kv motor and 150A esc.

I recently got these Zeee 3s to fit savage flux, they fit the older style battery boxes and perform well.

I guess one isnt becoming a Tamiya Nut, and not an old one yet! 😬

if you adjust the dual rate for channel 2 ie,throttle then you are also limiting braking power as it reduces the same for both inputs. Therefore use end point adjustment for throttle forward and brake, whch is individual.

Maybr cogging due to gearing. Try smaller pinion. Providing details such as model, motor/esc spec and gearing will help.

They are not proper bashers, keep them as shelfers, you have other suitable bashers. and you get the enjoyment from them by either building or looking.

It could be the grub screw coming loose on the drive cup which attaches to the gear meshing with the diff, just enough for some drive but slipping under full load. I've had it happen.

Get a used 1/8 buggy/truggy/rally, sometimes sold with lipos, or get new 2 x 4s lipos and lipo charger, have a look at sales section on this forum, <£500 assuming you have tx/rx. Nitro is always more fun, if you can find somehere local where noise doesnt offend too many. Lipos arent anymore dangerous than any orther energy storage device as long as common sense and care are taken. What nitros do you have?

Can ypu explain what slipping looks or sounds like? Did you have the diffs apart to change anything? Does it do the same when accelerating with wheels off ground, ie. no load.

There are 3d printed cases, some vehicle specific, some are screwed, some allow more secure velcro fixing. Search ebay for skyrc holder.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-9imod-servo-60kg.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.search.0

The above shows the low speed needle. Your original question was referring to mid speed needle. High speed needle is where fuel first enters carb and is main flow control as you accelerate and the carb fully opens, labelled MNV. Low speed needle is the needle in the sliding carb throttle, which controls flow at idle and inital acceleration, labelled STNV. Mid range needle is opp side to LSN, labelled SFN. Idle needle is for setting idle rpm, ie. the air gap, labelled TAS.

Middle needle is usually flush with carb body, https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/diagrams/HoBao/Engines/HB_Engine_settings_MacStar_28.pdf

I've got a new conrod but not installed. The crankcase needs to be flushed to remove the metal debris. The piston/sleeve maybe reusable, no obvious significant score marks, but you never know. This engine was only just broke in. It pays to fully inspect a new engine before breaking in and possibly after, as then you will be able to compare. Play in the conrod bearing may be reason mine failed, or maybe not.

Perhaps just factory tolerances on budget engines. This happened on my Force 28 this year, so perhaps could have been a similar issue, as I never stripped it down.

According to Force manuals the 28 crankshaft is part CS2808 and 32 is CS2808A, conrods are same CS2106A. Are you seeing visible play at conrod bottom bearing or feeling it at TDC? If feeling it then probably piston/sleeve issue.

What gearing, 46/13? Is it a 21 or 28 engine? Try a larger clutch bell if you want more top speed, Nitro hasnt got the low down torque but top speed isnt far off typical brushless combo that will run all day without overheating.

So doing consecutive speed runs and being on grass with larger/heavier tyres will be causing motor overheating. How are you getting temps via app if using Hobbywing esc? Still using the Traxxas receiver? How hot was the esc?

If it hesitates when revs get to peak then getting too lean. How do the revs behave when come off gas after full speed run? Smoke isnt a reliable guide as different brand fuels use different ingredients, which will smoke more or less. Sound and performance is more reliable as well as temp gun, 200-250F is general good operating temp. Make sure fuel is flowing freely. Blow down pressure line and there shouldnt be significant resistance as fuel is pushed through tank to carb.

110c is too hot for brushless motor. How is it measured? How quickly did it get too this temp and on what type of surface? I would keep below 80 deg C as magnet/glue/bearings dont like prolonged use above this.

Forgot to mention I replaced the voltage regulator which means it operates to lower voltages with nimh and added custom firmware. Just came a cross this thread...https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/100554-fly-sky-fsgt3b-v20/

Another VXL 8s esc bites the dust. You just place motor wires randomly into the esc. If the motor spins in wrong direction then just swap any two wires. It's called magic 😄

Buying used is a lottery as have past experience. Usually more cost effective to buy new as replacing piston/sleeve is a lot. Lowest price for Force 28 is probably this, I bougjt one last year and broke it this year with a conrod failure. Dont know why it failed as usually careful with breaking in. I also purchased a new Fastrax Enduro for £60 from Facebook marketplace this year so always worth a look. It is faster than the Force 28 in a buggy.