Captain Courageous

That's a heck of a big bucket on the rear there Fred! 😁

Thanks for the replies. Just tried some Core RC White Knight over Tamiya PS -16 (Metallic Blue) and PS -57 (Pearl White) and there is no adverse reaction. Looks like Tamiya PS and Core RC paints can be used interchangably. Guy in the model shop said that Core RC paint splatters a bit so best to warm the can up in some hot water first - which I did - and no issues. As the Tamiya paint is approx £6.75 for 100ml and the Core RC paint is £5.75 for 150ml (=3.83 per 100ml), looks like I'll be switching to Core RC in future. CC

I'm painting up a couple of bodyshells. I ran dry whilst painting the two shells. Normally, I use Tamiya PS rattle cans but my local R/C shop has very low stock (and none of the paint colours I wanted except for Champagne Gold), but he did have some Core RC paint (which says it is for polycarbonate bodies). Does the Core RC paint play nicely with Tamiya paint as I have two part-sprayed shells or does it react in any way? Also, if the Core RC paint is any good, it seems to be better value - cheaper per can than Tamiya PS and 150ml of paint instead of 100ml. Thoughts? Is Core RC Paint any good, can it be used alongside Tamiya PS paint, do folks use it/recommend it? Thanks in advance, CC

@Lone-wolf That looks to be a great idea! Stupidly, I didn't think of fabricating my own (which is something I used to do with the old 1.2V NiMH packs - I'd buy a shrink-wrapped 'stick' pack, open it up and rearrange the cells because most stick packs were two rows of cells end-to end in a 2 x 3 arrangement whereas my chassis needed 6 cells in a 1 x 6 side-by-side arrangement. Off now to research individual Li-ion cells (are they more forgiving on storage than Li-Pos) I'll have to reasearch but does '18650' refer to the size of battery (like 'Sub C or AA and the like) or is it specific to the 3000mAh capacity? Addendum: A 18650 Battery is a lithium-ion rechargeable battery. The first 4 digits of the designation “18650” indicate the physical dimensions while the 5th digit indicates it is a cylinder cell. The standard 18650 battery is approximately 18mm diameter by 65mm in length. There are also 16500 / 17500 / 17650 / 17670 cells which are 16mm and 17mm in diameter and variously 5cm / 6.5cm and 6.7cm long - but prices are horrendous! For example, I have found (on Amazon) a 4-pack of the 16500 cells but the price is £28 (or £7/cell). I'll stick with the 1000mAh 3S ovelander pack for £14! @JonnyUK Sadly that pack isn't suitable as the Flysky FS-GT3B / FS-IT3B requires 12V and isn't too happy below around 9V as far as I can gather. A 2S, 7.4V pack is probably just too low a voltage. CC

Only problem with rechargeable NiMH AA batteries is that 8 x 1.2V = 9.6V not the 12V that the transmitter wants. I tried that with some Fujimax NiMH 2800's that I had but the Tx was soon shouting that the voltage was too low. That's why, I guess, people have been fitting 3S Lipos which, when fully charged, give 11.4V CC

Thanks once again Locky. Looks like it just fits inside the Flysky FS-GT3B (which is identical to the FS-IT3B which I have - the only exception being that the GT3B uses the AFHDS protocol and the IT3B the AFHDS-2A protocol). 3500mAh is overkill however for a Tx. I'd prefer something like 1500mAh or so but haven't been able to find one in my searches. That Aliexpress link has however allowed me to search there (never used Aliexpress before - are they okay?) That's the kind of thing I was looking for but 22.60 Euro (plus S&H I guess) means a tad expensive. Thanks for the link however. CC

Hi Locky, Thanks for the post. That 2700 looks tasty, but it is too long. I said that space isn't really limited by length or width but thickness. The 2700 is 16mm thick according to to specs but 133mm is just slightly too long. The available space in the battery compartment is just 110mm long (and for the record, 59mm wide). I bought the Overlander 1000mAh and that fits in fine - there's acres of space however, so needs some foam padding (see my previous post for picture). CC

Hi Tug, That's what I was thinking. Used it last race meeting but didn't finish the session after I ripped a corner off the car after a 'slight tussle' with another car! I then took the LiPo down to storage charge after the meeting and forgot to look at how much it had dropped during the session. Here's a pic of it in situ. CC

Hello, I hope this makes some kind of sense. I have a new transmitter (Flysky FS-IT3B) which takes EIGHT AA batteries. There are a few YouTube videos where you take out the AA battery holder and replace it with a 3S LiPo battery pack. The space inside is limited not so much by the length or width but the height - only around 18mm - and most LiPo packs are thicker than this. My question is this. Is it safe (taking all due precautions that is) to open up a softpack and "unfold" the cells so that I can fit a larger capacity pack in. I could then re-wrap in appropriate heat-shrink. The YouTube vides show a 2500mAh 3S pack being fitted, the largest I can find from a UK supplier that meets the 18mm thickness criterion is 1000mAh. Or, for transmitter use, is a 1000mAh pack good enough? CC

Hammy - Make sure the shell is well-degreased and make sure the edges of the mask are well-pressed down. They can be awesome - if I can figure out how to attach a photo, I'll show you one we did earlier. CC

Thanks for all the replies folks. The Mardaves look interesting, and the Xray M18's look good too (I'd forgotten about them)! The Carisma GT14's ARTR's at

ArcTrooper's Dad here! Personally, I think 1/10th is too big as I only plan to introduce the kids to the sport (hobby?) - I'm not looking to run a "proper" club especially. Also, 1/10 cars a) travel faster and have more mass so do more damage (thinking feet & ankles here) if they hit you. Also, 1/10 would require a larger arena. They would be run INDOORS in a sports hall, so that would exclude Nitro. Despite my son's post, I am looking to keep the costs down. If I can get a chassis, body, Tx & Rx radio gear, Xtals, a couple of NiMH batteries nd a charger for £150, that would be ideal. Was hoping for 1/14th or 1/18th really. Ideally in kit form so that the kids get to build the vehicles - if they put 'em together they should have a fair idea of what's broken and how to fix it when they have a crash - so that precludes RTR unless that is the only option. Would like something that is able to be "hopped up", so that after they have got the bug, there is room to "grow". Thinking that a buggy would be probably more robust & less likely to break - plus we could incorporate jumps, bridges, tunnels (?) for fun. What I DON'T want is anything with Imperial threads (I guess that rules out Associated). I have been out of the sport/hobby for about 2 1/2 years so if you have any specific recommendations, the full name of the model, plus a link to a dealer website would be very much appreciated. Thanks in anticipation, CC EDIT: Also need to know where folks get old fire hose and large weights from for track boundaries.