Nitroholic

Depends .....as I have a lot of fun running an old nitro Firestorm I converted to brushless. It's 2WD, tail happy, and on 3S ....a challenge to drive. Which is why it's fun. I didn;t want the stock Firestorm Flux, as it hangs the motor out the back, while my conversion has it mid mounted. Rustler is a fun truck, but buy a good used one with some RPM upgrades. New they are just silly money for what they are. An old, outdated design, with poor electrics. Traxxas should either drop the price or upgrade the spec, but they keep getting buyers, so they just jazz up the stickers on the shell and bank the cash. But if you were thinking of spending Traxxas kind of money ......well....THIS thing is utterly drop dead gorgeous to my eyes: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/kyosho-turbo-scorpion-2wd-kit-405386 along with a reasonable brushless setup and servo.

Nope...Birmingham is fake. Unless you show whats inside it,

you forgot to demand to see the internals of the stepladder..... real stepladder users don't hide the inside.

Jeez ...the orange car in the Jeep is NOT the same car he runs on the road. You can CLEARLY see it still in the car while the one he ran was on the tarmac. If the only reason for saying this is fake is because he didn;t open up the car and show all the internals, then pretty much every world speed record car is fake...because I don;t recall them stripping down the vehicle to show the internals. He is faking it becuase he didn;t show you what you wanted to see. Post up your video of you doing better, so we can all accuse you of cheating, faking and otherwise making fraudulent claims.....then you can see what it's like when folks decide to fire off random accusations with absolutely no evidence whatsoever. Your follow up posts just reinforce the fact that you actually have nothing useful, insightful or serious to challenge the validity of the video.

Yeah ... the XT is a bit pricier at £199 for brushless, but they do at least include decent electrics, and the XT platform is upgraded over the earlier and cheaper Maverick offerings.

steering is usually channel 1.... When its running l;ike in the video, did you try operating the steering on the transmitter?

If you were happy with the Quantum Flux MT ...why not get her an XT ? A lot of common parts, same electrics, same performance, just a different look. Just a shade over the £170 budget...but...

sounds like previous owner stripped hte glowplug thread, and tried to find a replacement....almost succeeded too

First thing I would wonder is whether it's the right head for the motor. Secondly, is the liner seated properly? Normally, the head sits in a slight recess to get a good seal. If hte liner isn't sat right, the cooling head won;t sit right either. Doesn;t take much of a gap to lose compression, and it simply won;t run right, as you have a massive air leak there, blowing out fuel and sucking in air when the piston should be shoving fuel mix up the transfer ports. You have no chance of getting it to run right until you sort the leak.

This isn't styled like a crawler. It's styled like a racer. I like the looks, and have always liked this style of solid axle buggy, but the big question would have to be durability. Prety sure Carson are not going to be the maker of this, as they are usually rebranding the generic Chinese trucks, which mean it gets sold under a load of different badges and names. Wonder if it is going to be sold as FTX etc. If its cheap enough and durable enough... I;d give one a go

Because it's a Trackstar ..... Or, on a more sensible note, it could be fluff settling on the internals keeping damp in there and allowing corrosion to happen. This could disrupt or short a track on the board, leading to a dead ESC.

Your problem will be the wheelbase. There are other 1/24 scale bodies out there, but whether they will fit and work is another question altogether. You need the right width, and wheelbase so the wheels sit in the arches and look correct. Might be worth you measuring the width ( outer edge of tyre - outer edge of tyre ) and the wheelbase ( distance from front axle to rear) plus, maybe the wheel diameter. That way, if people have small RC shells, they can check them without hte need for them to have actually bought and tested them on the little Charisma

defintely body clips! I'd also get one of these: https://www.evolutionmodels.co.uk/product/tt-041-multiple-hex-spanner-wrench/ Lots of similarly branded ones out there, but I wouldn;t go out without mine. Both for adjusting tie rods and as a general spanner for the sizes you are going to find on an RCR

Well obviously you would be stupid to buy a boat ..... you buy TWO boats to be sensible. Then...when the first boat capsizes or breaks down in the middle of hte pond...the second boat goes out to recover it. Now, the second boat MIGHT also run into difficulties...so a third boat is a sensbile precaution. And a hovercrafgt

The Traxxas suggested up there is probably the most well known, longest lived and best supported in terms of parts, upgrades etc. It's got everything you need in the box, but it's a brushed motor with NiMh batteries. What that means is that, whilst it is very easy to upgrade to brushless and make it a lot faster...the battery, motor, ESC and charger will all be replaced. It's an old design.....but tough as old boots. I have a Stampede, the 2WD monster truck version of basically the same platform. It's been upgraded, messed with and hammered for years. Personally...I hate Traxxas and their money grabbing....and personally think a design this old should not be this pricey..... but....If you want a truck that you can still be hammering years from now, when then that's it. Over time, you will want better servos, brushless motor, new ESC and of course, LiPo batteries and charger.....but the basic car can handle a LOT more power. Mine has had the full works, and the only thing I notice is drive shafts don;t last as long. The Strada is a decent budget truck, and gives you quite a lot in terms of bang for your buck. Not as tough as the Rustler, but it is brushless, so will have more speed. It comes with a battery...but it's a NiMh pack...so expect cogging and performance dropoff. Run times will improve with LiPo, but you would need battery and charger to suit...which again will push the budget up a little. The Kyosho and Losi probably offer less in terms of value for money. The Losi is smaller.....and the Kyosho needs battery and charger....so final price will be well above the £200 by the time you run that one. The Corally and Team Associated I don;t know...Corally does look interesting, but check for spares support etc. Thats key to long life and enjoyment of your new truck.

My only reason for preferring brushless is that when I have gone LiPo on a brushed motor...it's died very fast. Admittedly, these were not high end motors....but even so. They got very hot, and very dead. Brushless gave longer run times, and a longer life. But...a 15T would be a step up in performance on NiMh, just not quite as much. A MadBull on brushless ought to be a lot of fun though.

Nice 🙂 Especially as there was actually nothing I could suggest new for sub £200.

This is why I suggest contacting the airline ahead of travel and getting a response. Being able to pull out a response from the airline stating it's OK, laying down any conditions and showing you complied tends to shut up the awkward person, and gives you some comeback in the event of real problems.

Something like a Quicrun 60A should be OK ...couple ot with a 4-pole 3300Kv 3660 motor, and it should be fun enough on 2S LiPo. I think the Mad Bull is an opld school 540 motor. The only thing to avoid with the motors is the ones with deep finned cooling grooves on the case. They are not true 540 motors, but actually smaller rotors in a can made to look larger than it ought. The big wheels on your MadBull need torque, and thopse motors won;t have any.

Oil shocks will make a big difference over tired Tamiya friction damped ones. Running brushless on NiMh isn;t really worth doing. You won't see the benefit really. Running your brushed motor on LiPo, though, would mean you get a lot less voltage dropoff. Might wear your motor out faster though..... If you go brushless, so for a fairly mild setup. The MadBull driveline isn;t really intended to take a lot of power, and you will run into gearing issues.

Right....welll...the vid isn;t exactly showing a great deal to help here.... Vid 1: Car shoots off screen, and I can hear gears slipping horribly as it continues to run full speed after it's been stopped by something. Is the problem that the car goes off on it's own at full throttle....or was that you doing it? If the latter..please ...DON'T! Vid 2: Running under no load, the thing is sounding rough. Thats the noise of damaged or poorly meshed gears. Either in the diffs, or the spur/pinion gears. You will need to look under the shell to see whats going on there. If this all started with a pop....then something broke. You will need to find out what, but it's something not right with the transmission.....so start with the motor and make sure it's mounted properly and tight, and not coming loose. Check the meshing between the pinion gear on the motor and the spur gear on the main driveline. Check condition of the gears. Then check the ceantral driveshaft os spinning smoothly, check your wheel bearings and the driveshadts and cups on all the wheels. You are looking for things that don;t spin smoothly, or that feel rough, notchy, or grindy when they shouldn't.

I would guess shock oil, as with all other 'liquids' is subject to controls and limits on amounts. I wouldn't pack stuff like that personally. Lipos are the main issue, but you may also find there are restrictions on carrying the transmitter in your hand luggage. I doubt security will be all that happy to find a radio transmitter in your carry on......so I would ne asking the airline and getting a response I could verify. Being very clear about what goes in the baggage for the hold, and what goes in hand luggage avoids the awkward situation where you find yourself ejected from a flight thanks to over zealous reactions to your harmless bit of holiday fun.

The first question to ask yourself here is WHY are you replacing the gears. Have you had any failures of the nylon gears, or are you planning to put a MUCH spicier motor in and preparing it for more power? Now, when it comes to mixing materials, it'#s pretty common to have plastic spur gears driven by a metal pinion gear. Doesn;t cause any issues, but will mean the part that wears is the plastic bit...and in the event of any stress loading, the metal gear will eat the plastic one. If it was my car, I would repace the diffs with metal if I could, and fit metal ring and pinion gears in tehre if they exist. The pinion gear could be metal ( but don;t buy cheap ones.... as poorly manufactured pinions will damage the spur) Last on the list would be the spur gear. BUT....unless I was able to do it properly and upgrade the diffs, and if it was holding together just fine without.....then I would leave it be. Get some decent grease in the diff cases, and let it be.

There are a number of things that can cause this ...... 1) Idle setting. If the idle isn;t properl;y set, it can be 'holding' on the servo, so as you brake to a halt...the inlet closes copmpletely and the motor dies. Easy to check...just pop off the air filter, and power up the servo. Then brake. You will see if the throttle stays on the stop and maintains the required 1mm opening. 2) Fuel air/vapour locking. Check your fuel lines are in good order, and firmly sealed on the tank and carb. Make sure there are no kinks, and check if it is routed neatly and as far away from hot things as you can. Fuelling problems will be masked at higher throttle opening partly by tune...and partly because the exhaust is putting more pressure into the tank. 3) Glow plug could be starting to fail. That can cause all sorts of issues. Plug heat range should not really have issues only when hot. I would start with a thorough check over, and possibly renewal of the fuel lines. Can't hurt....and it's cheap to do. Also check the seal around the tank top while you are at it. If you have a spare glowplug...try it and see how that helps. Check the idle setting and the servo so it definitely stops on the stop screw. Don;t know how much use the motor has had..,.. but if its getting past its best..that usually manifests when the motor is hot, as the compression starts to fade. When its cold, its naturally tighter, so that hides it.

I hope they lose massively, get hit with huge costs....and go away and stop being idiots. If they would just maybe focus these efforts on making better cars, then the world would be a happier place abd there would be no need for them to stress over their brand image, as we would all know it for what it was. As it is ....we just know them for what they are....