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Thought I would start a build (rebuild) thread on this, but can merge in with the Mt410 general thread if a waste. So, after jumping around a few trucks Slash, Yeti Score, UDR... I decided I wanted a Tekno Mt410. So not being the most patience of people, I sent all of 2 days looking and then bought one 😂 Soooooo.....what I bought, let's say its been 'Used' to its fullest, nothing wrong that but I don't think the maintance was kept online with the use. After a little more research it turns out it was oringal built by @bix so I know the pedergie is good. The good parts... The truck came with the M2C chassis upgrades, pretty much the full catalogue which for me would have been an essential. Also has m2c shock caps and centre diff housing. Bad bits... Overall its rough and full of sand and god knows what. Electrics are a bit of a miss match Flysky radio gear Hobbywing 2200kv motor Traxxas vxl 6s esc JX Servo Original plan... Just use it as a bit of a 'dog' let it continue to get beat up and don't worry about it, bash then chuck in the cupboard until next time. However....after the very first 10 mins of running it, I fell in love, its an awesome machine and I knew would be a keeper. But.... Seeing it all beat up was hard to take, it needed help somone to rescues it. Soo.... I could have taken the easy route and just bought a new kit, but there was somthing about this truck. So I settled full rebuild. First thing... Sold off all the electrics 👍 Then stripped it down to a basic new kit status.. Pulling out any broken, or damaged parts and then constructing a lenghy shopping list.

Traxxas do favour sintered steel, it's cheap. It's OK for nitro, less torque. In anything BL it struggles to cope. The self righting has always killed gears, great idea that's not suited to weak drive-trains.

@locky posted these charts in General Electric. Enormously helpful guide to choosing the right motor. From what I can gather a vantage won’t last long on a 3s, so assuming most of us running 2s, as you can see, using the theory below ( that 30,000rpm is the sweet spot ) a 4000kv motor should be ideal. But I’m inclined to think that, allowing for the extra drag 4wd brings, a 3800kv motor might be a better choice??  Or am I misinterpreting the charts? Or is any of this really that critical at relatively low (2s) voltage? [When I first came to this forum after a 30 yr break from RC I barely understood what most of you were talking about. It’s nice to have learned so much in the last few weeks 😁👍]

plan #3 - shim kit arrived earlier than planned so spent this weekend behind the table, below some pictures of the re-build first, very little grease in the diff cage, washer between the CVD output cap and bearing has been put on the wrong side so mesh was too tight and I could barely move the pinion, poor Q control? correct position of the washer, now it's moving nicely on the other hand to my surprise diff was shimmed so it seems they were listening to complains from users and changed few things in later production units but even then after cleaning and putting it all together I found there's too much play inside so had to add 1 shim under the sun gear (Hobao H87005), to stop moving the other side cup in/out I also had to add 1 between output cup and bearing, front is filled up with 75K and rear with 30K cst oil also found that center drive shaft grub screw is touching the little sticking out pc (looks like molding leftover) on diff cage so had to brush it off other than these small bits and pcs everything went well and so far I got very good feeling about quality of the parts used plan #4 - time to attach Exotec C-hubs, straight forward swap without any issues, supplied grub screws are locking the pins inside so even if I lose (I lost one already 🤦‍♂️) those stupid e-clips no big deal, rear is tight just enough, front I had to use some shims but even if I didn't it would be fine, now just the Arrma CVDs to finish it off last one was Tbone bumper/skid plate assembly, also easy swap but I'm not 100% confident it's sturdy enough, especially top bumper plate, it's attached to the small plastic holder which is attached to the tower assembly and doesn't feel strong enough and I'm bit afraid it might snap under hard impact, let's see how long it'll last... that's it for now, next round with next supply of the parts 👍

This But I was even happier when it turned up in this packaging Brothers:

The strip down went smoothly, a few awkward screws but got the job done. First decision...all screws, bolts and bearings are being binned. I would think they are from the original build, around 5% had dodgy heads, another 10% would bent in some way. Bearings... A mixed bag. Apart from that.. Chassis, inner trays, bumpers, battery straps, hinge pins, hinge pin holders, body mounts, skids all to the bin. I also sold off 2 of the M2c braces the centre and rear horizontal brace.

Should feel a bit nicer to drive now!