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Nothing today But I have been busy

I just happened to run across something for those with Vandals/Vantages who may be interested. I'm not much on running the stock RTR bodies that come with the cars so if you are looking for a replacement too, the Pro-Line Bulldog Cab Forward bodies made to fit the Schumacher Cat SX3 (item # 3387-00) are pretty much a direct fit, with minimal trimming to the nose. The rest of the body fits the chassis almost perfect. Just my two cents...lol

So, just thought I'd share my new track car with you all, it a Radical Clubsport (nearer to prosport spec). I gave up racing a few years back, through age and health (also wasn't that good at it!). I love cars and I'm fortunate to have had lots of quite nice ones over the years. This is on another level in terms of performance to other cars I've had, not in outright speed, I've a V10 M5 for that, but in terms of getting round a track quick, it will take something pretty special to beat this. Its a great spec, with a 1200cc Kawasaki motor, running on flat side carbs, sounds amazing! Anyway, thats it really, hope you like the look of it?

Weight is just another way of measuring the thickness of shock oils, but unlike CST, weight isnt a standard, and varies from manafacturer. most shock oil is from 5-60wt, what is about 250-800cst. for a fg, you might want something like 40wt in the front, and 15-20 in the rear, what is about 450cst front, and 300cst rear. anything more than 1000 is used in the diffs for a car, and is usually only in CST ranging from 1000cst all the way up to 2.5 million cst.

There are no exact rules - it will depend on the club. Purists feel you should use brushed motors and NiMH's, but most people agree that brushless and lipo may not be authentic but its just plain less hassle - kinda of like those Eagle E-Types with modern brakes and heaters. Most places adopt an anything goes attitude as a result but some will insist on brushed gear. When it comes to the chassis the year is normally what matters. 2wd and 4wd tend to run together but grouped by age. Cars pre 87 tend to be kept separate from 87-93 cars. Post 93 is classed as modern. That rules out the XX for most places, but the RC10 Worlds is OK as its still the alloy tub car. B2's are out. Bosscats are OK, as as are Works'93 Yokomos but not Cat2000's or YZ10's. The absolute best seems to be the Lazer ZXR as it adapts well to modern tracks. Procats aren't bad but flex on high grip astro! But I'd say RC10 because its simple, robust and spares are available. You can run the re-re because its essentially no different to building one for a NIB original.

It's eztec (as on the chassis, not ez-tech), who make cheap, toy grade stuff. Rrp for current offerings is thirty to forty five quid on eBay. Come with 6v or 9.6v unique shaped packs and a prebound 27/40mhz tx Fit for the bin, with immediate effect.

Your lucky there not that dear on feeBay for your model less than 100 notes gets you the ecu halo ring chip responder just need someone local to program it. If you have a local rac guy in your area ask him if could set it up out of work time . Beats paying garage labour prices .

Sweet!!!

On 3s.....she is officially a speed beast.....lol Posted by me ????

Why buy a top end kit to transplant middle of the road running gear into it ? . Either buy the d8 and run a top end truggy or buy the trophy and run a middle of the road truggy.. If you don't like the price buy something else ..

Got it a bit dirty.

The Ken Block shell is the one that's normally hard to get, but wheelspin models is showing stock.

imo around the

HaHa^

I use pbm as there 2 min from my house, all the guys that work there are very helpful especially Andy. But if you need me to go round and sort them out just ask pal

Just an update following this thread - just over a eek ago I took delivery from MS of my new HPI Trophy - naturally I had to try it out straight away and did so on 3S. Tbh I was a little disappointed in terms of it's outright speed. So I upped it to 4S and whilst on holiday last week had one excellent bash with it - it was WAAYYY powerful but was still slightly disappointing in terms of outright speed. Anyway, I have just now up-geared it from 15 tooth to 18 tooth and WOW, oh my goodness what a difference!! I expected a trade-off in power for the extra speed but not a bit of it!!! Also I reckoned that 20% extra speed was in really terms not that much. Again, how wrong you can be!! it is now the insane barely-controllable sped-machine I was after!! Thanks so much for the tips here!!! When the wife gives me the thermometer for Christmas so I can keep an eye on the temps I will try a further upgrade to 19 or 20 tooth (I already have the latter) as I agree with RC Pete that this AMAZING car has more still to give. Then I need to find a VERY long road or open space to really open it up!! Thanks so much to RC Pete for your help and recommendations here, you have totally understood what I wanted to achieve and I am VERY grateful for that and am now having lots of fun!! I also agree that the 1/8th car is much more substantial than the 1/10ths - still love the latter but this is a far more solid machine and so much more room under the shell to work with which makes the whole thing so much more pleasurable - I am a larger lad and do not have particularly delicate fingers for the smaller cars!! Thanks once again and will contribute more to this forum generally when I can.

Just thin brass washers of the correct size Sent from my Hudl HT7S3 using Tapatalk

my dad had a xr3i many moons ago that had the same problem someone said it was the starter motor where it's getting to hot dont no if that's true or not

Mine was honest.....

What an interesting study of people this thread provides. Why do people like to exaggerate speed so much? For people who have genuinely travelled at significant speed, they will either have much higher performance cars that they are indicating on this thread or have been on a bike. Even then, I just don't believe many of the speeds people are indicating that they have done. Sorry, but it's just not possible to have done these kind of numbers in the cars people are saying they did it in.

For my application, I have 3 shims between the flywheel and engine. And that gives me a perfect alignment with the spur gears. Shimming also allows the collet to press against when tightening up the clutch nut. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

yeah dont get me wrong the 350D was awesome still is, but there is something about the 40D. contrast is better, color range is more defined but its just this 40d sensor. 1600 iso and its very nearly noise free, i doubt much noise would come from the boosted iso option. one niggle is the shutter sound, it sounds wonky, like the 350d has a defined shutter sound but the 40D is more like a woosh click. need it to snow get cold and the brids to start feeding from the feeders again (had a moggy staking the garden out so birds have not been visiting ) mind you i did get a shot of a gaggle of buzzards thermaling above the house and chasing pidgeons ( they move to quick for my panning skills ). i gave the 350D to my mom, going to get her an 18-55mm kitty and a tripod, she is always moaning about the bridge camera flash being broken and pictures not looking as they should. its going to be a damn sight better than what she was using i hope. just have her using camera in P mode at mo getting used to it and how to work it.

I'm sorry I can't help you but would just like to say thats a great thread title, i think that sometimes when it come to rc.

One from MS with a price match (cheers guys ), and my Christmas build from Fusion Hobbies with free sweets and a magazine(cheers Joanne )

Sounds strange that someone has signed for it, used pm myself several times with no issues. Hope you get to the bottom of it. Jim

My new 8ight 3.0

Took the fried esc out of my Losi and put it in a trick and treat bag

im looking fwd to a running video

Interior pretty much done. may add a few details ..probably wont. no decal sheet, dunno if they didnt have em back in the 70's but either way aint got em here

Here's a pic of my own custom WR8 Fiesta bodyshell with homemade spoiler with carbon fibre uprights!!. Made using an Abu Dhabi shell. Also have a slightly modified WRC Ford Fiesta rally bodyshell, as i didnt like the green on it, so have cut it all off! How it sits now on its slick and new shell. Dont know if you guys have done it but ive trimmed an Hpi Trophy flux bodyshell to fit underneath for protection from crap getting into the car when its on dirt, grass or wet!

I would get the geared diffs to be honest they are better than the ball raced stock diffs and if you have any problems get the kit it should be free, carisma are really good at customer care and if they feel they are to blame they admit it and rectify it. Si

Yes mate then used tape to secure servo. It certainly ain't going anywhere! Ordered programming card today. Got 4batteries now too and a parallel board on its way. That way I can keep battery's storage charged till race day then charge them all together!

Badgers all rebuilt now, SJ4000 mounted to the front window. Fingers crossed for some nice weather tomorrow, get Ray through and try getting her broken in

Finish designing / making parts for Tuber crawler and then get it painted / built / muddy http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/album/3274-/ Build TL01 Scaler for my daughter http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/album/3580-ta02-scaler/ Get a touring or drift chassis sorted for a 1/10 New Bright Challenger body Put some electrics in the Turnigy 2WD SCT I have had for ages and never driven The problem is if I work on too many at once the missus realises how many there are....

Normal .... Collet comes with the flywheel screw to hold on the clutchbell is just a standard machine screw. Can't recall offhand if it's M3 or M2.5, but it's not a special part

ive got a km baja ill be listing asap it started life 3wks ago as a km t1000b it had 2 tank through it and the beetle shell split so i turned it into a shorty so its 45mm shorter than stock its 30.5cc thor pipe,, stock km steering servo , specktrum throttle servo ,, kyosho 3ch digital radio gear ,, battleswitch killswitch,, 5t sidepods removed and now got a 5b shell on all thats needed is 5b bodymounts,, and a spolier to turn it into a 5b shorty will come with rx pack and charger spare airfilter foam few tools manuals,, looking for

Christ that was an ordeal. parts not wanting to stick, not fitting together just ergh .. oh well need to do engine wires but will do that after ive unstuck my fingers together :|

That moment when your out with your RC and someone asks " Can i have a go " WHAT DO YOU THINK! Yeah here just take control of a

Don't believe the hype. Manufacturers put these speeds on packaging to entice buyers, achieveable real world speeds are very different. The combo fitted, along with gearing and cell count affects speed. Weight of RC, size of wheels also have a big impact. You are comparing 8th and 10th scale vehicles, so naturally there will be significant differences in claimed performance. Bigger, stronger diffs and drive train means you can expect better performance, but every RC has limits. This is where the aftermarket parts enter the equation, so for example, you can take a tenth scale, run an eighth scale set up and see huge performance differences, accepting that if you exceed the limits of what the drive train can take, things will wear out/break more readily. In my experience, speed isn't everything when bashing...so, rather than run one of our bl 5th scales on 8s, 7s is the sweet spot for general bashing, which puts less strain on the electrics, bearings, gears etc.... Think about what 3s will do to a Carnage's drive train over time...of course, FTX would love everyone to run 3s, as it generates more income through selling spares... The stock electrics on many rc's are 'ok', but may struggle to fulfill claims made on the box. Upgrade, play with gearing and see what you can achieve. All part of the fun of the hobby, experimenting with different set ups to nail your perfect basher. Four pole motors are more efficient than two pole, the physical can size has a huge bearing on power and speed; the combo you run currently has a finned, 540 can. This is a 380 rotor in a 540 can; swap for a true, 540 can in a similar kV and you'll see an immediate difference.

Had a quick run in the fading sunlight, my old V1 Gopro doesn't do well in anything except bright sunlight, so apologies for the poor quality! It is filmed in HD, I promise! Anyway, I hope you like it!

Indeed sir,it was sold HPI clear with 3 months warranty and i also supplied 6 months tax on it Ps: Glad it's past down to a careful owner and on the forum.Win!

Discovered yesterday that mine has a true forum past, having been bought new as an XB (no longer produced) from MS by Mr 53HRA, and still has accessories present that he added! All Vin numbers check out, so no cutting and shutting done.... Small world

Well still no Baja today, going to be at very earliest Tuesday, so waited nearly a week for it when it was paid for to be a 48 hour service. I really really pity the person who answers the phone to me on Tuesday, I'll probably make them cry AVOID YODEL COURIER LIKE THE PLAGUE!